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Old 09-13-2010, 08:36 PM   #1531
Strong Bad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pablo83
For brazing steel and welding brass/bronze. There are long-term exposure issues with using this stuff so you might want to read up on it some.
Please provide links, I can't seem to find any issues when "Googled". Exposure to any fume creates issues, I was just wondering why you think Silly Bronze might be worse.
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Old 09-14-2010, 03:41 PM   #1532
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Strong Bad
Please provide links, I can't seem to find any issues when "Googled". Exposure to any fume creates issues, I was just wondering why you think Silly Bronze might be worse.
The problem is the zinc content of the the bronze. Zinc boils near the temperature that brass melts. When this happens you get Zinc oxide which is toxic to breath. This is the same reason it is not advised to weld galvanized material. This is also the same reason why is it difficult to make good welds on bronze (the zinc boils easily and creates bubbles in the weld.

Wiki articles:
Zinc oxide safety
Metal Fume Fever
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Old 09-16-2010, 01:27 PM   #1533
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poolside

Make up receptacle box that receives the line from the two available 110V inputs, and connects them to a 220V output receptacle. 12 gauge extension cords as inputs will work fine.


Poolside,

Good suggestion and thank you, yet like posted previously the two "inputs" would have to be from two separate (hot) 120V circuits to achieve the 240V.

I would think most residential housing would use one circuit for all receptacle outlets in the garage which would leave me in the same dilemma.... would it not?
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Old 09-16-2010, 02:37 PM   #1534
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gringacho
Good suggestion and thank you, yet like posted previously the two "inputs" would have to be from two separate (hot) 120V circuits to achieve the 240V.

I would think most residential housing would use one circuit for all receptacle outlets in the garage which would leave me in the same dilemma.... would it not?
It would not. Use an extension cord.


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Old 09-16-2010, 03:06 PM   #1535
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These discussions make me curious: what do you US guys get in your house, electricity-wise?

Where I live in The Netherlands most older houses receive 1x25A, 230V from the electricity company. Which is splitted in multiple <=16A circuits. For the same fixed yearly fee you can also receive up to 1x40A (most more modern houses get that), or 3x25A (three-phase 230/400V; only nuts like me choose that). You can get more electricity, but fixed fee cost rises quickly. Of couse you pay for every kWh used.

My (older transformer-based-) TIG-welder can run on both 230V and 400V; on 230V it needs 25Amps max., on 400V it needs 16Amps max. Since 25amp circuits are not exactly standard and 3x16A 230/400V is, I chose to use the welder on a 400V circuit. On a regular 16A/230V circuit I can weld for only a few minutes above 120Amp before the ciruit breaker blows.

I'm still looking for another compressor, and I prefer a 3-phase one. 3-phase motors run so much nicer than single-phase motors...

How do those things work in the US?
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Old 09-16-2010, 04:05 PM   #1536
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Mostly residential electrical service is 2 phase 120V, and the lines are 180 out of phase. This is also called split phase, as in a single-phase line is split, or divided say, through a transformer to make the 2 phases.


http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedi...lit_phase2.png


http://www.beananimal.com/media/3180...se%20small.gif


There is plenty of argument about whether this arrangement is single-phase or two-phase. There is one phase on the input side of the transformer, and two phases on the output. The transformer is on the service pole or underground. The home service is two phases of 120V, and one phase of 240V.


http://www.anoldman.com/images/SINE.jpg



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Poolside screwed with this post 09-16-2010 at 04:11 PM
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Old 09-16-2010, 10:48 PM   #1537
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And how much current can you draw?
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Old 09-17-2010, 02:29 AM   #1538
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From two 120V 15A receptacles? 15A of 240V.


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Old 09-17-2010, 07:33 AM   #1539
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No, I mean: how much enters your house? How much current can a house draw in total?
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Old 09-17-2010, 01:03 PM   #1540
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I have two 6 or 8 inch cast iron pipes I want to use a poles for a gate at my hunting club. We intend to use a cattle gate and need to figure out how to suspend the gate.

My thoughts were to drill two holes into the pipe, insert the screw in hinge pins then weld them in place.

Can I weld the hinge pins to cast iron (dissimilar metals)?
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Old 09-17-2010, 01:36 PM   #1541
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaBit
No, I mean: how much enters your house? How much current can a house draw in total?
Oh, I get it. I'm fairly certain the minimum residential service, per the National Electrical Code, is 100A 240V. Though 150A and 200A service is very common. 300A in larger homes in warmer climate zones.


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Old 09-17-2010, 03:04 PM   #1542
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fe Man
I have two 6 or 8 inch cast iron pipes I want to use a poles for a gate at my hunting club. We intend to use a cattle gate and need to figure out how to suspend the gate.

My thoughts were to drill two holes into the pipe, insert the screw in hinge pins then weld them in place.

Can I weld the hinge pins to cast iron (dissimilar metals)?
Cast iron pipe is a very poor choice for gate poles. It is waaaaay too brittle and easily broken. You won't have much luck welding the hinge pins it will crack along the edge of the weld. You could make a hinge pin that passes all the way through the pipe.
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Old 09-17-2010, 04:30 PM   #1543
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Strong Bad
Cast iron pipe is a very poor choice for gate poles. It is waaaaay too brittle and easily broken. You won't have much luck welding the hinge pins it will crack along the edge of the weld. You could make a hinge pin that passes all the way through the pipe.
He could just buy cattle gate style hinges with the 10" of allthread, drill holes and bolt the hinges to the post,

Sink the posts in concrete, then fill the post with concrete like those posts designed to stop cars.

It would hold together a good long time I'd bet. Particularly if once it rusts up they por 15 and then paint the iron.
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Old 09-17-2010, 04:34 PM   #1544
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Thanks guys; pipe was free!

Asshole neighbor that isn't happy about my deeded easement and was trying to sell his piece of property cut down my telephone pole gate posts with his chainsaw. I figure this will slow him down!
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Old 09-17-2010, 04:52 PM   #1545
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Originally Posted by P B G
He could just buy cattle gate style hinges with the 10" of allthread, drill holes and bolt the hinges to the post,

Sink the posts in concrete, then fill the post with concrete like those posts designed to stop cars.

It would hold together a good long time I'd bet. Particularly if once it rusts up they por 15 and then paint the iron.
Filling with concrete is a brilliant idea!! The combo of through-bolts and concrete would work indeed!!!
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