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Old 09-17-2010, 05:48 PM   #1546
P B G
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Strong Bad
Filling with concrete is a brilliant idea!! The combo of through-bolts and concrete would work indeed!!!
Might want to coat the inside of the pipe w/ something too, i'm thinking, might not matter, but cap the bottom and roll it around w/ some por 15 inside, let that set, and that should further prevent the pipe rusting out.

Hope he never wants to remove them...
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Old 09-17-2010, 06:07 PM   #1547
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Strong Bad
Filling with concrete is a brilliant idea!! The combo of through-bolts and concrete would work indeed!!!
6" sch. 40 pipe will hold roughly 1.4 cu.ft. of concrete per Ft. in length and @ 3,000 lbs/27 cu.ft. It don't take much 6" pipe to get really heavy and with about 4' of it burried in the ground and 4' or 5' above ground. You shouldn't have to worry about anyone moving it.
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Old 09-17-2010, 06:10 PM   #1548
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Gate shouldn't sag very rapidly either...
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Old 09-17-2010, 07:50 PM   #1549
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tigging magnesium

i' have never tryed tig welding magnesium, have done lots of steel, ss steel, and alum. but ain't tryed magnesium. soo my questions are, what is the proper tungston pure, 2% thoriated? what gas argon, helium, mix, grind tungston, or ''ball'' it , ac, like alum? or dc? thanks for the advice.
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Old 09-18-2010, 09:32 PM   #1550
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sakurama
So after that I got cocky and decided to do a full stainless system for my Hypermotard out of 1.75 .035 wall (20ga I think).I found some test pieces and despite perfect prep I kept getting black crap at the back of the weld. I took it to my fabricator friend thinking I was just dumping too much heat (50-70amps) and I'd get a lesson but his welds weren't any better. Since he does heavy giant steel I guessed he lacked the touch only because our master builder in the shop welds that stuff all the time with no back purging and his welds are clean.

What gives? When I ask him he says, "I don't know - it's just how I do it. I'm not a welder either I just taught myself." So I'm confused.

We don't have a purge system in the shop. What do they look like and how do they work?
To get a good weld on stainless you do have to purge the backside of the weld with pure argon. You can do this with spare argon tank and reg, and with exhaust it should be fairly easy. After everything is tacked, tape up one end completely then the other end as well, and feed the hose through a small hole in the tape. Set the reg to around 15 cfh and let it run for a minute or 2 to purge out the oxygen in the pipe. After that you should be able to weld it perfectly.
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Old 09-19-2010, 07:43 AM   #1551
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Quote:
Originally Posted by big jer
i' have never tryed tig welding magnesium, have done lots of steel, ss steel, and alum. but ain't tryed magnesium. soo my questions are, what is the proper tungston pure, 2% thoriated? what gas argon, helium, mix, grind tungston, or ''ball'' it , ac, like alum? or dc? thanks for the advice.
AC is all I have ever used..

Tungsten choice depends on the machine, Older/Sq Wave= Pure (ball), Inverter=Ceriated, grind to a truncated point and it will slightly ball on it's own).

Gas choice is dictated by your machine again and how thick the section is, thinner stuff pure argon is good, thick/big sections that your machine is maxed out on go with Ar/He mix.

Wire and base metal should be CLEAN, and free from any oxidation, oil, etc. Mg wire will oxidize while you are watching it..:) (You can stick Mg to Alum...but it will not hold).

NEVER take the gas flow away from the molten pool...EVER till it is solidified.
It welds alot like aluminum only it solidifies quicker.

With ANY grinding / cutting / filing, it will make dust, with that you can start a fire with just the dust or saw chips and grinding steel sparks on the same machine (like a belt sander) or even one close to it...it will flare..and you won't put it out...till it runs out of oxygen or fuel...NO WATER...and a fire extinguisher only makes it worse, (unless you are trained to put it out).

I am sure I left out a TON of precautions to take...however it can be welded and it isn't that hard really, just be careful with it..
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Old 09-19-2010, 11:14 AM   #1552
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I just read the lot.
You blokes have no idea how much my head hurts........
Give me electrickery anyday......

I'm not a welder's bum, but I can weld stuff (mild steel) so it stays together. I was told welding stainless in thin guage like 1.2mm is the same as welding mild steel in 1.6mm thickness, due to the hardness of the stainless pipe. Is this the case, or is the 1.2mm stainless easier to put a hole through than 1.6mm mild steel?

Nothing structural, just exhaust systems.
Gasless MIG, 0.9mm flux-core.

Damn my head hurts......
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Old 09-19-2010, 11:31 AM   #1553
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MODNROD
I'm not a welder's bum, but I can weld stuff (mild steel) so it stays together. I was told welding stainless in thin guage like 1.2mm is the same as welding mild steel in 1.6mm thickness, due to the hardness of the stainless pipe. Is this the case, or is the 1.2mm stainless easier to put a hole through than 1.6mm mild steel?

Nothing structural, just exhaust systems.
Gasless MIG, 0.9mm flux-core.
The same thickness of SS burns through easier because heat moves through the material slower.

You'll be using gassles SS flux core wire? I've never seen that.


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Old 09-19-2010, 11:48 AM   #1554
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poolside

The same thickness of SS burns through easier because heat moves through the material slower.

You'll be using gassles SS flux core wire? I've never seen that.

No, me neither!

Just normal flux-core for mild steel, but was going to upgrade to a gas set-up if the test pieces worked out OK.

Just wasn't sure how the SS compared to mild when welding.
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Old 09-19-2010, 12:08 PM   #1555
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MODNROD
No, me neither!
Made me look! Check the bottom of this page for Flux Cored Stainless Steel Wire, ER 308 - FCO (For Gasless Welding)
http://us-forge.com/Products/Welding/mig.htm

Note: SS filler needs less current.


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Old 09-19-2010, 01:13 PM   #1556
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NitroAcres
AC is all I have ever used..

Tungsten choice depends on the machine, Older/Sq Wave= Pure (ball), Inverter=Ceriated, grind to a truncated point and it will slightly ball on it's own).

Gas choice is dictated by your machine again and how thick the section is, thinner stuff pure argon is good, thick/big sections that your machine is maxed out on go with Ar/He mix.

Wire and base metal should be CLEAN, and free from any oxidation, oil, etc. Mg wire will oxidize while you are watching it..:) (You can stick Mg to Alum...but it will not hold).

NEVER take the gas flow away from the molten pool...EVER till it is solidified.
It welds alot like aluminum only it solidifies quicker.

With ANY grinding / cutting / filing, it will make dust, with that you can start a fire with just the dust or saw chips and grinding steel sparks on the same machine (like a belt sander) or even one close to it...it will flare..and you won't put it out...till it runs out of oxygen or fuel...NO WATER...and a fire extinguisher only makes it worse, (unless you are trained to put it out).

I am sure I left out a TON of precautions to take...however it can be welded and it isn't that hard really, just be careful with it..

thanks for the help, pretty much like i had guessed. they were a set of twine arms off of an old freeman hay baler. an yes it does weld alot like alum, an prep is the same, CLEAN. i have heard iron powder will put out , or smother it out, i was quite careful with the grinding during prep. thanks again.
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Old 09-20-2010, 09:04 AM   #1557
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P B G
He could just buy cattle gate style hinges with the 10" of allthread, drill holes and bolt the hinges to the post,

Sink the posts in concrete, then fill the post with concrete like those posts designed to stop cars.

It would hold together a good long time I'd bet. Particularly if once it rusts up they por 15 and then paint the iron.
How hard is cast iron to cut and drill?
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Old 09-20-2010, 04:08 PM   #1558
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fe Man
How hard is cast iron to cut and drill?
Cast Iron is really soft. a good sharp drill bit will go thru quite easily and it can , if necessary, be cut without much effort with a hack saw. Drill mounting holes and mount the gate prior to filling with concrete, rent a concrete vibrator to get the mud past the mounting bolts and to make sure there are no voids in the pipe............ edit. Don't know if I need to mention this or not..... but here it is anyway... make sure the drill bit is at 90 degreess to the pipe when it penetrates the other side and use a good level, when you set the post in concrete, to be sure the post is plumb.
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Old 09-29-2010, 06:37 PM   #1559
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correct filler rod for tig weldind side case

ok what i am trying to do is have the weld come as close as possible to the in color/shade of the original base metal.i am needing to weld a side case for an old italian bike.1965 parilla garelli kl125 to be specific. thanx fer any hep
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Old 09-30-2010, 07:27 PM   #1560
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xtop20A
ok what i am trying to do is have the weld come as close as possible to the in color/shade of the original base metal.i am needing to weld a side case for an old italian bike.1965 parilla garelli kl125 to be specific. thanx fer any hep
Parts need to be wire brushed or chemicaly cleaned to remove oxidation and any other contaminates before they can be welded.Which will result in a bright finish. If your intention is to hide the welded part there are several firearms refinishing business that can probably oxidize the case to look authentic.
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Fleas are interested in dogs." -P.J.O'Rourke
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