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Old 10-15-2010, 12:20 PM   #1576
fxstbiluigi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fe Man
Approximately the same as the .030 liner coiled up in the Lincoln plastic bag...
The metal liner is for mild & stainless, The one that looks like a plastic tube is teflon an suiteable for alum.
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Old 10-24-2010, 01:14 PM   #1577
DaBit
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I have some 1" round solid C45E H6 steel stock originally intended as 'shaft steel'.

Can I (TIG-)weld 4mm (5/32") thick 'normal' steel tabs on this rod? The C45/1045 steel contains more carbon than normal steel.

Regular ER70S2 filler rod OK? Preheat? If yes, how much?

I haven't yet welded such 'thin' metal to such a 'massive' block of steel before. Any tips?
(besides directing most of the heat to the massive block)
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Old 10-24-2010, 02:38 PM   #1578
fxstbiluigi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaBit
I have some 1" round solid C45E H6 steel stock originally intended as 'shaft steel'.

Can I (TIG-)weld 4mm (5/32") thick 'normal' steel tabs on this rod? The C45/1045 steel contains more carbon than normal steel.

Regular ER70S2 filler rod OK? Preheat? If yes, how much?

I haven't yet welded such 'thin' metal to such a 'massive' block of steel before. Any tips?
(besides directing most of the heat to the massive block)
The ER70S2 will work. As for pre-heat 350 f should be enough. Depending on placement and number of tabs the shaft may wind up looking like a banana, you can either use heat or a hydraulic press to straightn the shaft after it has cooled.
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Old 10-24-2010, 10:19 PM   #1579
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OK, thanks.
I intend to make a few spacers out of it, so warping is not really an issue.
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Old 10-26-2010, 05:36 PM   #1580
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Question 1)

When MIGing a stainless exhaust tip to a stainless muffler, do I need stainless filler wire, or is ER70S6 (I think I got that number right) acceptable? Any drawbacks to this if it is acceptable?

Question 2)

Miller recommends an Argon / CO2 mix on my particular MIG for mild steel. If I temporarily used pure Argon until I get my C25 tank filled, would there be any negative results?

Thanks in advance.
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Old 10-26-2010, 06:15 PM   #1581
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kirkster70
Question 1)

When MIGing a stainless exhaust tip to a stainless muffler, do I need stainless filler wire, or is ER70S6 (I think I got that number right) acceptable? Any drawbacks to this if it is acceptable?

Question 2)

Miller recommends an Argon / CO2 mix on my particular MIG for mild steel. If I temporarily used pure Argon until I get my C25 tank filled, would there be any negative results?

Thanks in advance.
Q-1. yes you need a stsinless fill wire. ER70S6 is a mild steel wire and SS cannot be welded with mild steel. However M/S can be welded with S/S (works but not recommended)...... Q-2 The recomended shield gas for MIG with S/S is either Tri-Mix (#1) or 75/25. Pure agon will work but it is kinda spendy to be using with a wire mach. CO2 will not work with S/S. When welding M/S to stainless use ER309L and Tri-mix, with wire mach or pure Argon with a TIG set up.
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Old 11-04-2010, 07:25 AM   #1582
Pablo83
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Just wanted to show off some recent work. Here is an intercooler I'm building for a bike. My aluminum welding has come a long way, but there is still a lot to be desired. My biggest problem is tacking up the work. No matter how much I clean the piece, I find it very difficult to get the filler rod to join the weld pool the first time I dip it. I've also tried pre-heating the work, but that doesn't seem to help either. Any suggestions?

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Old 11-04-2010, 09:09 AM   #1583
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Clean the fill wire.
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Old 11-04-2010, 09:46 AM   #1584
Pablo83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by road ranger
Clean the fill wire.
with a wire brush?
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Old 11-04-2010, 09:57 AM   #1585
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pablo83
with a wire brush?
Acetone,wood alcohol,MEC. NOT Brakekleen or any electricle cleaner. Good lookin welds btw.
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Not that this is always a virtue.
Fleas are interested in dogs." -P.J.O'Rourke
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Old 11-04-2010, 02:54 PM   #1586
Pablo83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by road ranger
Acetone,wood alcohol,MEC. NOT Brakekleen or any electricle cleaner. Good lookin welds btw.
Thanks, I'll try it.
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Old 11-04-2010, 04:56 PM   #1587
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pablo83
Thanks, I'll try it.
Try wiping down the weld area too. And I don't need to mention the dangers of flamable liquids around a welding area do I ?
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"Politicians are always interested in people.
Not that this is always a virtue.
Fleas are interested in dogs." -P.J.O'Rourke
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Old 11-04-2010, 07:40 PM   #1588
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sakurama


We don't have a purge system in the shop. What do they look like and how do they work? I think that exhaust requires more skill than I have right now so I'm going to build a welding table, a swingarm for my Rickman, then maybe a frame for a CB160 (and the seat and tank too since I just picked up aluminum last week!) and then a .065 stainless system for the KTM and then maybe I'll be ready for the Ducati system.

Oh, and I read this whole damn thread - very enlightening.

My next question is what can I buy used that will allow me to Tig off 110 (for the track) and 220 (at the shop) but be at or under $2000. I know the new Dynasty and Ivertec's are amazing and maybe they're just the ticket but at $4K it's too far to stretch right now. Is there a precursor that would work? Miller or Lincoln? I found a used Invertec 205T for $2250 that seems pretty clean. Is that a good deal? Anything I should ask?

I appreciate the thread - I think I can safely say that welding is the most amazing skill I've ever acquired. It completely changes the way you look at the world and what you can make. Unreal!

Gregor
Before I forget, this is something EVERY weldor should read: http://www.brewracingframes.com/id75.htm Scary stuff.

I'm fairly new to the forum and have a few things to share on the topic of welding; it's a major part of my job. (I also happened upon your excellent RR, thank you.)

back purging isn't much of a trick really. You just need to close up most of the system and have an inlet and outlet for the argon to enter and push the air out. Argon is heavier than air so it's wise to put your inlet as close to the bottom of the piece as possible and have the outlet as close to the top as possible. For something as large as an exhaust, you're probably good at about 15cfh until it's run long enough to fill your piece, at which time you can back it off a bit.

Everyone like's fab shots right? This is all ti; straight from the torch. If the formatting worked, the left column of three photos shows final passes. The two photos in the right column are fusion passes only (no filler)





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Old 11-04-2010, 08:19 PM   #1589
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.

.)


Everyone like's fab shots right? This is all ti; straight from the torch. If the formatting worked, the left column of three photos shows final passes. The two photos in the right column are fusion passes only (no filler)





[/quote]"this is all Ti; " as in TIG or titanium.
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"Politicians are always interested in people.
Not that this is always a virtue.
Fleas are interested in dogs." -P.J.O'Rourke
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Old 11-04-2010, 09:05 PM   #1590
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Quote:
Originally Posted by road ranger
. as in TIG or titanium.
titanium
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