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Old 12-28-2010, 06:22 PM   #1681
kirkster70
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Fuel tank thickness...

Is 18 ga. mild steel heavy enough for fabricating a fuel tank?

Thanks, Kirk.
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Old 12-28-2010, 06:26 PM   #1682
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kirkster70 View Post
Is 18 ga. mild steel heavy enough for fabricating a fuel tank?

Thanks, Kirk.
dementions of tank?
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Old 12-28-2010, 07:19 PM   #1683
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Originally Posted by road ranger View Post
dementions of tank?
Not sure off the top of my head, but I'm thinking of extending a stock DR350 3 gallon tank to closely resemble the Acerbis 4.25 gal. plastic tank.

I may go slightly larger to get 5 gal. capacity. I will also fab some crash bars for protection of the tank.
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Old 12-28-2010, 07:27 PM   #1684
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Originally Posted by kirkster70 View Post
Not sure off the top of my head, but I'm thinking of extending a stock DR350 3 gallon tank to closely resemble the Acerbis 4.25 gal. plastic tank.

I may go slightly larger to get 5 gal. capacity. I will also fab some crash bars for protection of the tank.
So we are talking about compound angles and multiple joints? No flat surface larger than about 6" or so? Will you be able to make all the welded joints a "lap joint"? Use 14 or 12 ga around the fill spout? Gasoline weighs 6lb/gallon so any sloshing will cause flexing in the joints/welds. And you know what can happen when anything is flexed enough times in the same place. 18ga is really limber and weighs 2lbs /sqf. 14ga is considerably stiffer, and easier to weld, and weighs 3.12lbs/sqft. 16ga @2.50lbs/sqft would be the min. I would use. So figure up the total sq/ft + add some for weld and see if the weight difference between buying one or doing your own is worth the time and trouble.
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fxstbiluigi screwed with this post 12-28-2010 at 08:02 PM
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Old 12-28-2010, 08:31 PM   #1685
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Originally Posted by kirkster70 View Post
Is 18 ga. mild steel heavy enough for fabricating a fuel tank?

Thanks, Kirk.

Depending on the design it could be more than heavy enough. I'd skip the lap joints and go straight butt welds. The guys I know who do that sort of stuff say laps make for joints that are harder to leak proof. Your leak could be 4" from where it's seeping at with a lap.
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Old 12-28-2010, 09:56 PM   #1686
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18 gauge is for sure fine, especially if you're shrinking the metal to make a typical fuel tank shape. Once the metal gets into a 3D curve/spherical shape it doesn't really flex.



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Old 12-28-2010, 10:04 PM   #1687
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I only asked about 18 ga. specifically because I have some scrap from a "repurposed" heavy duty shelving unit. I already made some panniers for the DR out of it today. I have 4 large shelves left and then got to thinking about the tank...hmm...I wonder! Ha Ha!

So yeah, it was free, so my cost would be my time.

Whatever joint I need to make, if I decide to go for it, I will coat the tank with POR-15, 2 part epoxy to seal the inside.

I've never made a tank before, so I wasn't even sure what thickness OEM is. The stocker already has a big dent in the side, and if I screw it up completely, no big deal. Just order the Acerbis.

If I need to buy a heavier gauge, I can do that, too.
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Old 12-28-2010, 10:08 PM   #1688
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Originally Posted by Poolside View Post
18 gauge is for sure fine, especially if you're shrinking the metal to make a typical fuel tank shape. Once the metal gets into a 3D curve/spherical shape it doesn't really flex.


I plan on using a bag full of sand and a body hammer / hand dolly to finesse the shapes before welding.

I've never tried this before, but I like learning new things. I'm pretty sure I can pull it off, and if so, it opens many more possibilities for ideas down the road.
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Old 12-29-2010, 07:16 AM   #1689
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Originally Posted by kirkster70 View Post
I plan on using a bag full of sand and a body hammer / hand dolly to finesse the shapes before welding.

I've never tried this before, but I like learning new things. I'm pretty sure I can pull it off, and if so, it opens many more possibilities for ideas down the road.
Post that on a new thread, or your other one, when you get going. Sounds very interesting.

Jim
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Old 12-29-2010, 08:45 AM   #1690
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Post that on a new thread, or your other one, when you get going. Sounds very interesting.

Jim
Ya I'd like to see that too........... before any bondo is applied.
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Old 12-29-2010, 01:01 PM   #1691
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Will do.

I need to take some pics of recent progress to post to my rookie welder thread.

I've got my tubing bender all set up and I've been waiting 2 weeks for my tubing to show up to make racks for the DR.
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Old 12-30-2010, 10:35 AM   #1692
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Is there a trick to getting seamless welds (like around an exhaust fitting) with flux core mig? I can't for the life of me either a) get a good leak proof weld all the way around or b) get a seamless weld and not blow through it like its not even there.
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Old 12-30-2010, 10:41 AM   #1693
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Originally Posted by Inane Cathode View Post
Is there a trick to getting seamless welds (like around an exhaust fitting) with flux core mig? I can't for the life of me either a) get a good leak proof weld all the way around or b) get a seamless weld and not blow through it like its not even there.
Practice,practice practice.
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"Politicians are always interested in people.
Not that this is always a virtue.
Fleas are interested in dogs." -P.J.O'Rourke
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Old 12-30-2010, 11:18 AM   #1694
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inane Cathode View Post
Is there a trick to getting seamless welds (like around an exhaust fitting) with flux core mig? I can't for the life of me either a) get a good leak proof weld all the way around or b) get a seamless weld and not blow through it like its not even there.

A guy once ask me, "what the trick to sucessful brain surgery was", I told him to stop using a chainsaw...
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Old 12-30-2010, 01:19 PM   #1695
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Question About Welding Stainless Pipes

I have been given a stainless mid pipe from a GSXR with carbon fiber Can that I want to put on my BWM F650 DAK I figure I can cut the Mid Pipe and then Cut the back section of the DAK pipe and weld the two together (or maybe have somebody do it)

I have a simple Lincoln AC buzz box for a welder

Questions are:

Can I use what I have to weld this pipe?

If So what rods would be recommended? I have no clue what type stainless this would be 300 / 400 series ect ?

If I can do this what would the recommended methods be?
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