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Old 01-13-2011, 08:01 AM   #1726
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newcastleadam View Post
Local guy selling what he describes as a Lincoln 125 Nascar edition for $150. Pretty sure he means this unit (could also be this). Here's the pic he provided:



Going to look at it and a few other items tomorrow. Use would be 1/4" steel at most, would like to try aluminum, and really just start learning to weld. As such this unit sounds like a good deal. Thoughts?
The Nascar welder is the red mig welder that sits next to a oxy/acetylene unit. I'm fairly sure that there is no spool gun attachment for that welder that would allow you to weld aluminum.
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Old 01-13-2011, 08:20 AM   #1727
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Originally Posted by Strong Bad View Post
The Nascar welder is the red mig welder that sits next to a oxy/acetylene unit. I'm fairly sure that there is no spool gun attachment for that welder that would allow you to weld aluminum.
Yeah, thinking about that Portatorch setup as well. Hoping someone could chime in with an exact model designation and some comments, even with the crappy photo. It appears that the Weld Pak 125 is MIG/alu convertible, while the Easy Core 125 may be (the website and instruction manual conflict each other).

Thanks!
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Old 01-14-2011, 05:30 AM   #1728
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newcastleadam View Post
Yeah, thinking about that Portatorch setup as well. Hoping someone could chime in with an exact model designation and some comments, even with the crappy photo. It appears that the Weld Pak 125 is MIG/alu convertible, while the Easy Core 125 may be (the website and instruction manual conflict each other).

Thanks!
Depending on the price, both the mig and the torch setup would be excellent to have around and would allow you to weld almost anything in steel. Even if one of the manuals say you can convert it over to weld AL, don't do it. Get a bigger welder if you want to do that. Anything that plugs into a 120v outlet will not have enough juice to weld AL. If it could the results would be very disappointing.

Get those 2 setups and get started welding. You will be very happy.
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Old 01-14-2011, 06:34 AM   #1729
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portatorch

Quote:
Originally Posted by newcastleadam View Post
Yeah, thinking about that Portatorch setup as well. Hoping someone could chime in with an exact model designation and some comments, even with the crappy photo. It appears that the Weld Pak 125 is MIG/alu convertible, while the Easy Core 125 may be (the website and instruction manual conflict each other).

Thanks!
I started with a setup like that still have the regulators and the torch the acetylene bottle but the Oxygen bottle is too small that size 1 Acet bottle will generally last through 2 or more fills on that Size 1 O2 bottle. and around here the fill on the size 1 compared to the size 2 O2 is not much. plus it is a hassle to drag it off all the time to be filled. those are best suited for AC work where most of the time your soldering which does not consume so much O2
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Old 01-14-2011, 09:52 AM   #1730
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Picked up the welder (Lincoln Pro-Core 125) for $115 . Feeling pretty good it, can't wait to start practicing. Watch out cats!
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Old 01-15-2011, 06:24 AM   #1731
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Originally Posted by newcastleadam View Post
Picked up the welder (Lincoln Pro-Core 125) for $115 . Feeling pretty good it, can't wait to start practicing. Watch out cats!
Just a bit of advice, you'll need a much bigger welder if you plan to weld cats.
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Old 01-21-2011, 06:56 PM   #1732
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Originally Posted by pablo83 View Post
I don't use my stick welding electrodes enough to keep them fresh, but I need to keep some around the shop for the rare times I need them. I currently keep them in the plastic tubes with the big rubber O-ring, but that's not doing the job. I guess I need an electrode oven, but I was wondering if there any cheaper options? If not, I guess I'm looking for a Keen K-200 oven. Anyone have any experience with this unit, or similar ones? I'll probably be storing about 5-10 different types of rod at about 10# each.

Here is a Lincoln Hydrogard rod oven. Holds 10 pounds of 1/8 rod and plugs into 120V. Part number is K2829-1 from Lincoln.
http://content.yudu.com/A1pk9y/LinEl...sources/73.htm
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Old 01-21-2011, 07:07 PM   #1733
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newcastleadam View Post
Local guy selling what he describes as a Lincoln 125 Nascar edition for $150. Pretty sure he means this unit (could also be this). Here's the pic he provided:



Going to look at it and a few other items tomorrow. Use would be 1/4" steel at most, would like to try aluminum, and really just start learning to weld. As such this unit sounds like a good deal. Thoughts?
If that is a Lincoln Power MIG then they make a spool gun called a Lincoln SG100 spool gun for under $200. They work good.
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Old 01-21-2011, 07:22 PM   #1734
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Originally Posted by skrub View Post
I'm making my own steel shoe for flat track racing. I have a hard surface rod thats applied with a torch. Its not a flux core rod. I'm guessing this is like brazing and I need some form of flux. Thanks for any help.
Use a stick electrode called Lincoln Blue Max 2100. It comes in 3/32 inch diameter one pound tubes. It is about $20.
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Old 01-21-2011, 07:31 PM   #1735
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Originally Posted by JimVonBaden View Post
This is what I use, and so far has been fine. I have welded as long as two straight minutes with it on 1/4" steel. It works fine for casual welding needs.





Not the prettiest welds, but I am new at it.

I turned this:



Into this:



I should have sprung for different, non-perforated, angle iron. But it is very strong and works great!

Jim
Looks great Jim.
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Old 01-21-2011, 07:34 PM   #1736
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Originally Posted by pablo83 View Post
I took the liberty of snooping through your SmugMug account to get some better pictures of this project. You clearly know what you're doing when it comes to metal work. If you haven't seen this thread, I think you would enjoy it. I know the guys who watch that thread would love to see your formula one red wagon, as well as all your other projects.

Anyway, back to your question. Here's a better picture of the welds:



It looks like the BMW welds are done with some specialized welding style, but I could be wrong. My guess is they are brazed. I've seen tubes joined in a similar fashion on a bicycle frame. I don't know how it was done, but I was told it was done with a TIG welder and brazing rod. Another possibly is SAW (although I've never seen fish-mouthed tubing done with SAW). The last option I can think of for this type of weld is dual-shield, although dual-shield is usually done with much larger pieces (like bridges and pressure tanks).

I think it's going to be real difficult to make identical welds in a small shop unless you really want to do a lot of research into bicycle frame brazing. But I do think you can greatly improve your welds to the point that only a handful of people will notice the difference. First. you're putting two tacks per tube. This makes a very bumpy surface to weld over later:



Try using one tack in the center of each tube. Next, remove the rack from your jig and tack the back side of the tubes (single tack on each). Then do each final weld in a single pass. Reducing your heat will make the weld stand up more, but you need to be careful that you're still getting good penetration. I think this will make your final welds much smoother.

If this doesn't get you where you want to be, look into getting a tool that will allow you to fish mouth the tubes (it looks like your tubes are straight cut)



This can be done with a small lathe (screw making type) or other jigs like this:



Also, this is going to take a lot of practice before. I've spent many years joining tubing in projects like this and it probably took many hundreds of welds before I could lay down a consistent and good looking weld on fish-mouthed tube. Doing it on small tube is going to be even more difficult.


You've built some significant jigs for this rack. Are you going to do a production run of these racks?
Those BMW racks are welded with robots. They get programmed to make a nice steady weld. Almost impossible for a human hand to make welds that consistant...almost.
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Old 01-21-2011, 07:44 PM   #1737
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Originally Posted by KTM640Dakar View Post
Those BMW racks are welded with robots. They get programmed to make a nice steady weld. Almost impossible for a human hand to make welds that consistant...almost.
It is a good thing you added that last "almost". You haven't been aroud many experienced weldors have you?
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Old 01-21-2011, 07:44 PM   #1738
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I've just recently gotten my SP-150 Lincoln up and running. I bought a new gun, new spool of 0.030 wire and a new tank with 75/25.

I'm running the gas at 25cfh. I talked to a metal fab guy this morning who laughed at that and said 3-5 is all I need. Lincoln and Miller websites all say a lot more than that. Anyways, my 55 cf tank is pretty much gone. Costs aside, is it bad to have too much gas running?

My problems are that I am getting a lot of popping.

I have a volt meter on the welder, but its hard to watch. Maybe I can shoot a video with my camera and check to see what voltage I am getting. For 1/8" steel, what should I be getting? I've also played with the wire speed anywhere from 200-300 and I am all over the map.

I usually get good penetration, but I never get the bacon sound people talk about.

Gas too much? wire & amps suggestions?

Here's the welder in question.


Turn up your voltage. Try 200 on the wire feed and 20 Volts (approx 5) on the knob.
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Old 01-21-2011, 08:14 PM   #1739
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Originally Posted by KTM640Dakar View Post
Turn up your voltage. Try 200 on the wire feed and 20 Volts (approx 5) on the knob.
Timely post. I can't say what's happened but here goes. I switched out the 0.030 to 0.035 today. I turned down the gas. On 3/16"tube I'm getting great welds, g ood penetration and the popping is gone. Sounds just like the guys on tv

My settings are about 6 and260 wire feed
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Old 01-21-2011, 09:56 PM   #1740
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Originally Posted by KTM640Dakar View Post
Here is a Lincoln Hydrogard rod oven. Holds 10 pounds of 1/8 rod and plugs into 120V. Part number is K2829-1 from Lincoln.
http://content.yudu.com/A1pk9y/LinEl...sources/73.htm
I needed something that would hold more than 10 lbs. I found a guy selling a DryRod unit on CL for $170. I had to drive a couple hours to get it. It had been dropped and had a large dent in the back. I took it apart and reshaped it with body hammers. It seems to be a solid unit. I'm not sure why the PO had to write "No Food" on it; kind of scary.



It barely fits on the top of one of my shelved. It was a real pain getting it up there by myself.

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