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Old 01-24-2011, 05:40 AM   #1756
JimVonBaden
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Originally Posted by KTM640Dakar View Post
Looks great Jim.
It looks like ass, but works great! My friend carried an R1100GS 400 miles the other day with it with no issues.

Thanks,

Jim
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Old 01-24-2011, 10:24 PM   #1757
nessy357
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Originally Posted by sailah View Post
So I ran my first aluminum beads this morning on my inverter welder.

I had a instructor type show me the basics. First off, I didn't clean it very well as I had forgotten to get a SS brush and just used a regular wire brush. Second, the base plate was pretty thick. I had the pedal floored the whole time

AC balance was set about 35-40%, argon about 10. 3/32" green tungsten, balled.

Any ideas what the sand stuff is? This was my first and only bead, I plan to do a lot more to get more of the stacked look. I'm def getting good penetration.



That's aluminum oxide, comes from the dull surface of the alum, try filing the weld area first till it's shiney, then weld it.
Cheers Bob
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Old 01-25-2011, 09:31 AM   #1758
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back to plasma cutters...

any opinions on this Hobart AirForce 250ci unit?

http://www.hobartwelders.com/products/plasma/

can't afford the big boys, don't want to go cheapo with a HarborFreight unit for something like this.
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Old 01-25-2011, 03:06 PM   #1759
sailah
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Originally Posted by Shuffler View Post
back to plasma cutters...

any opinions on this Hobart AirForce 250ci unit?

http://www.hobartwelders.com/products/plasma/

can't afford the big boys, don't want to go cheapo with a HarborFreight unit for something like this.
I'm interested as well. Theres a guy selling one in pittsburgh craiglist for $400
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Old 02-03-2011, 06:19 PM   #1760
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Originally Posted by fxstbiluigi View Post
Everything around the Burrito warmer should be moved some where else. What type of rod do you intend to store in there? and what temp do you have it set at? Plastic can melt spilling what ever, eventually cardboard can become hot enough to ignite.
Just a lil humor, although it wasn't funny at the time, I was working at a power house where welding rod was a controlled substance, portable rod heaters went with the weldors and rod was checked out by the pound and when turned in rod stubs were counted and what was still in the portable heater weighed.
I wraped a steak that I bbq'd the night before and warmed it up in the portable rod heater for lunch for my fitter and I
well some of the juice leaked into the heater. and you could smell it.
so when I turned everything into QC that evening I just dropped it off and left, not supposed to do that, QC smelled the meat and was instantly pissed.
The next day I wasn't allowed to draw any rod and got fired.

Food in a rod oven is like pouring water in a rod oven. Water is a hydrogen source. You won't pass X-ray if you don't have dry electrodes. Your employeer is not interested in gouging out bad welds and rewelding those joints...I bet.

I do like food though.
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Old 02-03-2011, 06:20 PM   #1761
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Originally Posted by Shuffler View Post
back to plasma cutters...

any opinions on this Hobart AirForce 250ci unit?

http://www.hobartwelders.com/products/plasma/

can't afford the big boys, don't want to go cheapo with a HarborFreight unit for something like this.
Don't buy a cheap plasma cutter. Rent a good one.
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Old 02-05-2011, 02:29 PM   #1762
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Electrical question...

I have a dedicated 240v 20a (double breaker) circuit in my garage that runs a 4000W heater when I need it.

Is this circuit enough to run something like a Lincoln Power MIG 180C or Millermatic 180? Will the circuit trip unless I bump it up to 30a or more?

I'd like to have the extra oomph over a 115v welder if/when the need arises.
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Shuffler screwed with this post 02-05-2011 at 04:19 PM
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Old 02-06-2011, 01:09 AM   #1763
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Not that I know about welding specifically, but the electrical requirements from the Lincoln spec sheet says 20A. So unless you're running both the welder and the heater (or anything else on that circuit) you should be good.

The Miller is rated at 21.7A, so you'd likely be pushing your luck there without pulling some more/bigger wire.
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Old 02-06-2011, 02:07 PM   #1764
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yeah I get confused with volts this and amps that....not being an electrician I dunno what it all means in terms of what I can run on my circuit...

I do know I have a 240v wall receptacle and my heater has a 240v plug, but the Lincoln info says inputs are 230v and 20a, so can I even plug the thing in without having to replace the receptacle or change the plug on the cord (?)

http://content.lincolnelectric.com/p...ature/e724.pdf
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Old 02-06-2011, 03:58 PM   #1765
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Originally Posted by Shuffler View Post
I do know I have a 240v wall receptacle and my heater has a 240v plug, but the Lincoln info says inputs are 230v and 20a, so can I even plug the thing in without having to replace the receptacle or change the plug on the cord (?)
The voltages 220V, 230V, 240V are used pretty much interchangeably - they all refer to the same thing. If the plug fits the outlet you're good to go as long as the specified current draw for the welder is less than or equal to the circuit rating (breaker amp rating for most purposes).
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Old 02-07-2011, 06:08 PM   #1766
Pablo83
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I need to weld up a crack in the clutch cover of a TTR125. What aluminum alloy is this likely to be cast from?
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Old 02-08-2011, 03:47 AM   #1767
802mike
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I'm looking for a TIG welder for small aluminum projects. Is this one any good?
Local CL ad
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Old 02-08-2011, 05:55 AM   #1768
trailer Rails
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I need to weld up a crack in the clutch cover of a TTR125. What aluminum alloy is this likely to be cast from?
Probably magnesium. Just use some quick steel epoxy. I punched a small hole in my cover a year ago and patched it from the outside with this stuff and it is holding just fine. If you want to do a really good job, take the cover off and patch both sides. It is permanent if you take your time and clean the metal very well before. I carry some with me on the trail and have patched many cases on the trail with it, I am pretty sure most of those cases are still patched and in use today.
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Old 02-08-2011, 05:56 AM   #1769
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I'm looking for a TIG welder for small aluminum projects. Is this one any good?
Local CL ad
The ad has been flagged and is gone.
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Old 02-08-2011, 06:30 AM   #1770
Pablo83
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Probably magnesium. Just use some quick steel epoxy. I punched a small hole in my cover a year ago and patched it from the outside with this stuff and it is holding just fine. If you want to do a really good job, take the cover off and patch both sides. It is permanent if you take your time and clean the metal very well before. I carry some with me on the trail and have patched many cases on the trail with it, I am pretty sure most of those cases are still patched and in use today.
The TTR125 is kind of a kid's bike. I can't imagine it has magnesium covers. All of the Yamaha's that I've worked on that have magnesium covers have the word "magnesium" cast into the cover. This cover has "Alumec" cast into it.

Does anyone know what Alumec is?

The reason I'm welding it instead of using epoxy is the oil fill hole is cracked. It needs to be welded so the threads can be re-cut.
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