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Old 03-04-2011, 04:57 PM   #1816
Pablo83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rd1900 View Post
The easy solution would be to find a used tank on CL and buy it, they you just swap when you need a refill. I've used Linde, Airgas, local guy, none of them seem to care what the tank says on it.
You need to call your gas supplier and ask if they will fill other people's tanks or not. This changes in different locations. In Salt Lake none of the suppliers would exchange or refill other companies tank. In Colorado Springs there's one shop (Colorado Welding Supply) that will actually sell you a tank (no lease) and refill it. I was very happy to find them.
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Old 03-04-2011, 05:26 PM   #1817
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pablo83 View Post
You need to call your gas supplier and ask if they will fill other people's tanks or not. This changes in different locations. In Salt Lake none of the suppliers would exchange or refill other companies tank. In Colorado Springs there's one shop (Colorado Welding Supply) that will actually sell you a tank (no lease) and refill it. I was very happy to find them.
Refilling my tanks would entail having them tested periodically.
Mandatory testing is not an issue when swapping empty tanks for full tanks.
George
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Old 03-04-2011, 06:08 PM   #1818
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Laugh No you cannot mig weld in the wind.

I was only saying about the Co2 because its cheaper and easier to refill. If there is a draft, turning up the flow may keep you welding. With Co2 it does not hurt the wallet near as much as C/25. Wind will shut you down outside.

I get the not wanting to weld inside your garage. Fumes from MIG are not bad at all compared to stick OR fluxcore. I have been mig welding inside all week and an open window is usually enough. The burning paint on the other side of what I am welding makes the most smoke. I do have a fume extractor, but its NOISY. I wear ear plugs when using it.

Try Mig with gas and with out before you decide.


I tig welded this aluminum rack for my Kamakasi




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Old 03-04-2011, 06:57 PM   #1819
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David R View Post
Try Mig with gas and with out before you decide. I tig welded this aluminum rack for my Kamakasi


David
Oh yes I will try both.
Nice TIG job David.
Room for rod tubes underneath.

George
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Old 03-05-2011, 04:50 AM   #1820
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Laugh

Welding rod tubes just fit. I tried 3" PVC first, but it was too fat. Some paint, a drill and a few bolts.





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Old 03-05-2011, 05:29 AM   #1821
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Nice work David R.
That low grade thin Al square tube is a pain in the ass, I've got a bunch of it from old pontoon boats. What tungsten did you use?
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Old 03-05-2011, 07:23 AM   #1822
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rd1900 View Post
Nice work David R.
That low grade thin Al square tube is a pain in the ass, I've got a bunch of it from old pontoon boats. What tungsten did you use?
Aluminum is extruded angle 1/8" thick by 3/4" x 3/4" from tractor supply. I bent it in a vice. Tungsten was red or black (thorated or lanthanated). It does not matter what its made of when I dunk it in the puddle. I really can't tell the difference.

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Old 03-05-2011, 09:21 AM   #1823
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David R View Post
Aluminum is extruded angle 1/8" thick by 3/4" x 3/4" from tractor supply. I bent it in a vice. Tungsten was red or black (thorated or lanthanated). It does not matter what its made of when I dunk it in the puddle. I really can't tell the difference. David
David,
Your shop is filled with all sorts of nifty equipment.
I am reading an article
http://www.thefabricator.com/article/aluminumwelding/tackling-aluminum-gmaw#

It is written by
Matt Tavernelli
Product manager, aluminum, hardfacing, and stainless consumables,
Lincoln Electric Co
22801 St. Clair Ave.
Cleveland, OH 44117
USA
Phone: 216-481-8100

He makes a case for pulse transfer in welding aluminum.
Quote:
""
Until the development of the pulse transfer mode,
it was extremely difficult to weld thin pieces of aluminum with GMAW.
The high heat output of the CV spray transfer process burned
through thin base materials and required a small-diameter wire,
which posed other potential problems, such as feeding difficulty and tangling.
Pulsing provides spray arc transfer across a wider amperage range than CC and CV.
""
I am assuming that you have tried it?

George





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Old 03-05-2011, 12:18 PM   #1824
David R
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Laugh Pulsed Mig

Pulsed spray Aluminum. Yeah, I done it... I was shocked at how thin I could go.

http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?t=18934

Most of what I do is pulsed spray low carbon steel.

David :)
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Old 03-05-2011, 03:33 PM   #1825
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David R View Post
Pulsed spray Aluminum. Yeah, I done it... I was shocked at how thin I could go. http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?t=18934
Most of what I do is pulsed spray low carbon steel.
David :)
David,
Thanks.
Aluminum welding demand is on the increase.
http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us/support/process-and-theory/pages/aluminum-application-detail.aspx

Nice discussion on www.weldingweb.com
Your avatar shows a Lincoln Ranger on your service truck?


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Old 03-09-2011, 09:51 AM   #1826
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Metal-Cored Wires

Quote:
Originally Posted by KTM640Dakar View Post
02-11-2008, 07:19 PM post #416
Tips for All
1) It is very important to get a good, solid work connection. This means you should thoroughly
clean or grind the surface of the metal where attaching the work clamp and use a tightly attached work clamp so electricity can easily flow
through the workpiece and back to the welder. Paint and rust are insulators. Remove them. This is a very common mistake to overlook
Introduction to Metal-Cored Wire
http://www.thefabricator.com/article/consumables/an-introduction-to-metal-cored-wire#

Quote from:
http://weldingdesign.com/distributors/news/distributors-should-know-metal-cored-wires-0518/

" " "
Metal-cored wires are capable of welding through mill scale, dirt, oil, grease
and other debris while still producing quality welds, which eliminates
your customers’ need to grind materials before sending them to the weld
cell. And, because the wires produce little to no spatter, they eliminate
the need for pre-weld anti-spatter application or post-weld grinding, too.
As mentioned previously, they also offer faster travel speeds than other
wires and higher deposition rates. "
=====

From:
http://www.thefabricator.com/article/arcwelding/understanding-metal-cored-wire#

"
Metal-cored wire isn't suitable for all welding, but used in appropriate applications,
the wire can help improve quality and reduce rework.
Some industries best-suited to using metal-cored wire are automotive exhaust and
chassis manufacturing, agricultural and heavy equipment manufacturing, and railcar fabrication.
This article discusses the wire's properties and how to determine if it is suitable for your operation.
=====
Additional Links:

http://www.hobartbrothers.com/aboutus/part_one_metalcored_productivity/

http://www.hobartbrothers.com/aboutus/part_two_metalcored_productivity/




It seems to require CV (Constant Voltage).
Looking for the OP to chime in on this.

I would like to know which Lincoln Welders can handle this?

George
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Old 03-09-2011, 02:36 PM   #1827
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OK, simple question but I want professional input.

I need to weld up and machine down a steering stem. Just the lowest 1 inch of it in order to get a nice press fit into the lower triple clamp (.0005). I had one ruined already by the professional welder getting it too hot then the resulting warpage caused the machining to be off.

So I decided to take matters into my own hands. I have been practicing MIG welding the junk stem and lathing it down. So far so good, but I haven't really considered total heat/warpage. So now it is time for the real thing. I figure I will do a 1/2 wide zigzag down the stem (1 inch), then rotate it 180 and do the other side. At this point I figure I should either cool it (quench) or let it cool naturally. Then so on and so on.

I have no idea what the metal is but the way it welds and lathes it seems to be mild steel. It is a solid 3/16+ thich and about 1 1/4 diameter.

How would you weld it? Would you circle it (hard to do alone), single strips up and down, etc.

Kenny
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Old 03-09-2011, 02:59 PM   #1828
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Maybe trim the stem and weld on another section of tube, then turn the new piece to size.


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Old 03-09-2011, 05:39 PM   #1829
David R
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Laugh Metal core wire

Look here about metal core. If you can navigate the site, find the speeds and feeds. It will give an inch per minute and voltage spec.

http://products.esabna.com/EN/home/coreweld

Hope this Link works.

Today I was running 27 volts, .045" metal core wire of unknown origin. "Filler metals Inc" was on the roll, but I could not find it on google. I guessed at InchesPerMinute and volts. I ended up with 92% argon, 8% Co2 500 IPM 27 volts. It ran hot but was a true spray with little slag and no spatter once I got it dialed in.

I like welding on clean stuff. You folks do what you want. I get asked now and then to "burn through the paint". I just tell them I am not that good of a welder, I have to grind or burn the paint off before I weld. Mill scale gets ground off,




To be fair, here is the weld. Its a 3/8" pipe fitting being welded to 7/8" plate. Pulsed spray .030 ER70S-6 Lincoln wire, 450 Inches Per minute, 92% Argon 8% Co2. Positioner is turning 3 RPM. I think I did 160 of them.




I don't care what you do, I cannot produce a weld like this unless its clean.

David

The above picture is mig wire pulsed spray.

Tomorrow I will run some metal core wire and take pictures.
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Old 03-09-2011, 07:42 PM   #1830
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Filler Metals Inc

David,

http://pnumbers.com/onlinePackages/fmc/csp-fmc-company.asp?companyID=47

They seem to be importers.

George

AWS came up with a classification for metal-cored wire in 1999.
http://www.mwsco.com/kb/kb_frameset.asp?ArticleID=74
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