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Old 04-16-2011, 11:49 AM   #1951
fxstbiluigi
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mig wire will cause problems (porosity) you need E-70-S2 for fill wire.
And use some emery cloth to clean the gold colored protective coating off,
Then wipe the fill wire with acetone to further clean it.
Make sure the weld area is bright shiny metal, no mill scale on anything,
and clean with acetone before welding.
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Old 04-16-2011, 12:48 PM   #1952
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fxstbiluigi, I disagree.

Mig wire comes in ER70S-2 or ER70S-6 which is most common.

Tig Filler wire comes in E-70S-2 and E-70S-6

Its the same stuff except the R for Roll in mig wire.

If you are using .035 mig wire, chuck one end in a drill and put the other end in a vice. Spin the wire and it will stay straight.

Look up filler metals at Weldingdepot.com or One of the major manufacturers like ESAB or Lincoln.

David
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Old 04-16-2011, 12:55 PM   #1953
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Is there anyone has a Lincoln invertec v205-t TIG welder for spares?A printed circuit burned out on mine,dont know what to do,Lincoln wants too much money for repair.
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Old 04-16-2011, 01:17 PM   #1954
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David R View Post
fxstbiluigi, I disagree.

Mig wire comes in ER70S-2 or ER70S-6 which is most common.

Tig Filler wire comes in E-70S-2 and E-70S-6

Its the same stuff except the R for Roll in mig wire.

If you are using .035 mig wire, chuck one end in a drill and put the other end in a vice. Spin the wire and it will stay straight.

Look up filler metals at Weldingdepot.com or One of the major manufacturers like ESAB or Lincoln.

David
All he said was "mig wire" OK.
there're several grades of "mig wire"
The important part is that the wire is E-70-S2.
He will still need to remove the protective coating from the wire before using it as fill wire with a tig torch.
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Old 04-16-2011, 03:31 PM   #1955
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thanks guys, yes I have regular mig wire S2 not the flux cored. Good tip about the protective coating. I do have 1/16" ER70 tig filler I just thought that the MIG would be easier for the thinner metal. I plan to start off with my TIG wire and if I have to dial the heat back, I'll use MIG wire. Any tips on the joint itself??

I was thinking about welding the bottom part of the brackets like this ][
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Old 04-16-2011, 03:47 PM   #1956
fxstbiluigi
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What are the numbers on your mig wire?
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Old 04-17-2011, 04:25 AM   #1957
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er70s2 or 6 can't remember exactly, I have 030 & 035
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Old 04-17-2011, 06:21 AM   #1958
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Benesesso View Post
>"Originally Posted by nessy357
Rev polarity ,roughly 2/3 of the heat is generated at the welding rod and the rest at weld puddle. The opposite for Straight polarity.

Spin off question ?
Why do you get better penetration with Rev pol. ?"<




Looks like nessy has flown the coop.
Simply put it's the direction of the electron flow, hence why the heat generated with AC stick welding is 50/50.
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Old 04-17-2011, 07:36 AM   #1959
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sailah View Post
thanks guys, yes I have regular mig wire S2 not the flux cored. Good tip about the protective coating. I do have 1/16" ER70 tig filler I just thought that the MIG would be easier for the thinner metal. I plan to start off with my TIG wire and if I have to dial the heat back, I'll use MIG wire. Any tips on the joint itself??

I was thinking about welding the bottom part of the brackets like this ][
No its not. Simply wipe it clean with the same rag that had the acetone. The coating on the rod is taken in to consideration when made and is NOT detrimental to the weld. Taking coating off is something I've never done (or heard of) and I've been doing this since back when they used to call it heliarc.
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Old 04-17-2011, 08:26 AM   #1960
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Look here.

http://store.weldingdepot.com/cgi/we...er_image=.html


ER70S-2 and ER70S-6 all on the same page both Mig and Tig filler wire. Scroll down for the ER70S-6 Tig filler.

The only difference is they sell tig filler in 36" rods and Mig wire on rolls. All by the pound. None will cause porosity.

I don't use acetone on anything. I had one rag catch on fire and that was enough for me. It does clean well. It works even better on aluminum, but for mild steel a good cleaning with a grinder or flap disc is all I need. TIG will not put up with mill scale. The cleaner the work, the better the weld will be.

David
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Old 04-19-2011, 01:21 PM   #1961
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Two questions.

Number one:
As with almost everyone who attempts projects with motorcycles, I also have the desire to weld aluminium. Had the chance to play a few minutes with a modern AC-capable inverter machine and a sheet of aluminium, and discovered that welding aluminium is not as hard as 'they' say. So, I decided to add an AC inverter stage to my DC-TIG welder using components I got for free. A couple of IGBT modules would be more suitable, but if the smoke escapes from these components I won't loose a dime.

Picture of the so-called 'H-bridge' under construction. Good for about 300Amps. The welder delivers 160A max.



The question: the control electronics would turn out very simple and straightforward when I allow a very small percentage of DCEP (1% or so), even when welding (stainless-)steel. Thus, the current won't be pure DC, but AC with a very small percentage 'cleaning'

Would that be a problem?


Question 2:


Since a part of my daily job consists of soldering modern electronic components with pin-to-pin pitches down to 0.5mm, I am used to working with light and compact tools. Since TIG-welding requires approximately the same precision, I would love to have a small and light torch with flexible cabling.

What would be the smallest and lightest torch that could handle 140Amp AC? A WP-20 style torch?

DaBit screwed with this post 04-19-2011 at 02:36 PM
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Old 04-19-2011, 02:27 PM   #1962
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#1 I don't think that little bit of DC will matter at all. When the polarity changes directions is when it cleans the aluminum. Do you have a way to start the arc? Some kind of hi freq?

The other comment. Stainless or carbon steel can only be TIG welded with DC Electrode Negative.

I would start with a standard #17 air cooled torch. I find the torch will get hot from about one stick of filler. I use a water cooled torch for aluminum. You may find the WP 20 is too small. Aluminum uses a lot of power to weld until the base metal is hot.

I Like the project. I have welded aluminum with a few new and a few OLD machines. They all work.

David
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Old 04-19-2011, 03:13 PM   #1963
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David R View Post
#1 I don't think that little bit of DC will matter at all. When the polarity changes directions is when it cleans the aluminum. Do you have a way to start the arc? Some kind of hi freq?
I was not totally clear I suppose.

When converted, I can adjust balance between, say, 99% 'penetration' and 1% 'cleaning' and 1/99% penetration/cleaning. But I lose the '100%' penetration, or pure DC mode.

Of course this can be fixed by adding extra electronics. But extra electronics means more points of failure, so why do that when 99% 'penetration' and 1% 'cleaning' works OK for welding steel.

The machine I use is a 160 Amp DC machine manufactured by Fronius of the 'large transformer, bridge rectifier with 2 thyristors, large smoothing inductor and HF ignition' design. It should be possible to add an AC inverter between smoothing inductor and HF ignition, as long as I fix the AC frequency to 100Hz and synchronise it with the mains frequency.

Oh well, we shall see. If it doesn't work I only threw away some time. The machine itself probably survives a nuclear war without damage.

Quote:
I would start with a standard #17 air cooled torch.
I have one now, also with short end caps. And it's OK, 90% of the time. But since most of my welding is under 100 amps DC on small workpieces, I would prefer something a little smaller. I'm not a professional welder, and smaller & lighter would help me while doing things like thin pipe etc.

The #17 even works so well that I won't go to the store and buy a torch (decent torches are costly), but rather wait until a suitable used one comes up somewhere.

Quote:
You may find the WP 20 is too small. Aluminum uses a lot of power to weld until the base metal is hot.
The machine can deliver 160Amps. Some energy will be lost in the inverter stage, so max power output will be 140-150 Amps or so. A small torch that can do 140 Amps AC at 35% duty cycle would be sufficient. The air-cooled WP9 is a tad too small, but the WP20 should fullfill that requirement, right? But maybe there is an even better choice?

Quote:
I Like the project. I have welded aluminum with a few new and a few OLD machines. They all work.
New machines probably make it easier. But for some DIY work in the shed 'good enough' is the target. And besides that it's always skill that determines the result, not the machinery.
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Old 04-19-2011, 04:21 PM   #1964
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I sort of get it. I use an Arcmaster 185. I can change AC wave from 15% to 65% + Anything over that will toast your tungsten. I don't use it as penetration, I use it as Cleaning. If its good clean stuff I can use more - wave for more heat because 185 amps AC are not a lot for aluminum. Maybe enough for 1/4" It usually sits at 35% + wave.

Building something like that is WAY over my head. I think a WP9 and 20 take the same consumables. I think Weldingdepot.com has some fancy tig torches.

http://store.weldingdepot.com/cgi/we...ml?id=G7bhipTS

Have fun
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Old 04-19-2011, 05:43 PM   #1965
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Mig wire with tig, oh boy thats something I dont want to do unless I'm in an emergency. The wire is going to melt so fast its ridiculous, you're not even going to be able to feed it fast enough to make a decent quality bead. BTDT, I actually fixed an aluminium footpeg guard that had cracked off with aluminium filler for a mig and a tig (I lacked the aluminium electrodes), worked out "fine" but it wasnt easy to do.

I've used a rule of thumb, that the filler has to be the same diameter as the tig electrode. As for welding a gas tank with tig, its such thin sheet metal that its going to blow through very easily and its going to warp from the heat of the tig. I'd mig weld it, then check it for pinholes, then lead it, shape it and voila good as new.
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