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Old 06-07-2011, 08:33 PM   #2056
TwoBearBill
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SuperArc L-56 Mig Wire

I am still getting used to my Lincoln 140HD Mig welder I bought used a couple of months ago, and so far I like it! I just ran out of the wire on the spool that came with it, which is labeled SuperArc L-56 MIG wire, .025", 2lb.

I am welding primarily thin wall square tubing and some 1/8" - 3/16" angle and flat mild steel. All has a thin coat of rust, which I've brushed off before welding and I've had good luck so far.

Should I replace with the same kind of wire? Is a 2lb spool most common, or can I buy it in larger quantity to save?

Thanks in advance.
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Old 06-08-2011, 03:42 AM   #2057
David R
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Lincoln L-56 is the best wire and what I use for some of my best jobs. Yes its available in a 12.5 lb spool for about $30.00 give or take. 25 or 33 lb spools are also available at about $100 each. Home depot may have the 12.5 lb. Esab and others make good wire too, but for some of MY jobs the lincoln runs the best.

It depends on the job and the machine. Pulsed spray All I can run is the Lincoln wire on my V350.

The 12.5 lb spool will not fit in my Miller Passport but is fine in my Lincoln SP100.

I have a few rolls of wire my Local Welding Shop told me is just as good as lincoln. They do not run in pulsed spray mode, so I have 3 opened 30 lb spools of wire that I can't use in that machine. This is why I prefer the L-56.

David
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Old 06-08-2011, 07:44 AM   #2058
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bergermeister View Post
welding helmets...

thoughts on the harbor freight $50 auto darkening?

3M Speedglas 100V?

Thanks!
I guess I'll go the other direction on this one. If you enjoy being blinded I say by all means go for the cheap helmet. I certainly did and after it failed to darken for about the 4th time I decided that my eyes are actually worth more than the couple of hundred I saved by buying a cheap helmet. Perhaps I got a lemon but I think when you spend so little you're taking a chance. Besides that it was dark when it wasn't shaded, it would darken if you looked at a light bulb but not when you struck an arc and it was uncomfortable as hell. Really nice.

This is a motorcycle forum - you'd think we'd take safety seriously. I've paid dearly when I cheaped out on safety gear; those cheap boots I bought when I started racing? Yup, save a few hundred bucks! The surgury for my broken ankle? Well into the thousands upon thousands and now I can no longer run farther than 3-4 miles without pain. Yeah, that was a thrifty move...

I bought a 3M Speedglas 9100 after that (other end of the spectrum) and while I love the comfort, the huge window and the instant darkening (hasn't blinded me yet) the ratchet for holding it up is worthless. No matter how often I tighten it it comes loose and won't stay up. Other than that I love the helmet and I understand that I can just get new ratchets for free so that's what I'll do.

Anyway, try the cheap one. If it works you saved money and if it blinds you you got a $50 lesson (and sore eyes) that you get what you pay for.

G

sakurama screwed with this post 06-08-2011 at 07:49 AM
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Old 06-08-2011, 07:59 AM   #2059
NitroAcres
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbarstow View Post
In a multiple weld pass in Stainless you alter the chemistry of the metal quite a bit. If you push the chemistry too far from where you need it to be, you can get carbide precipitation that leads to cracking and reduced corrosion resistance.

You probably use this in some form already, like welding 304 with a 308L electrode.
Sounds great on Paper.

However, In the shop setting, IF you weld Stainless with Mild Steel wire...it will crack 90% of the time, right down the middle of the bead or off the to Stainless side. (TIG Welding).

Can you do it? Yeah maybe, it is right...No.

That is why they make so many different types of welding wire, Proper wire for the base metal, and cross selection for mis-matched base metals.
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Old 06-08-2011, 08:29 AM   #2060
JimVonBaden
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sakurama View Post
I guess I'll go the other direction on this one. If you enjoy being blinded I say by all means go for the cheap helmet. I certainly did and after it failed to darken for about the 4th time I decided that my eyes are actually worth more than the couple of hundred I saved by buying a cheap helmet. Perhaps I got a lemon but I think when you spend so little you're taking a chance. Besides that it was dark when it wasn't shaded, it would darken if you looked at a light bulb but not when you struck an arc and it was uncomfortable as hell. Really nice.

This is a motorcycle forum - you'd think we'd take safety seriously. I've paid dearly when I cheaped out on safety gear; those cheap boots I bought when I started racing? Yup, save a few hundred bucks! The surgury for my broken ankle? Well into the thousands upon thousands and now I can no longer run farther than 3-4 miles without pain. Yeah, that was a thrifty move...

I bought a 3M Speedglas 9100 after that (other end of the spectrum) and while I love the comfort, the huge window and the instant darkening (hasn't blinded me yet) the ratchet for holding it up is worthless. No matter how often I tighten it it comes loose and won't stay up. Other than that I love the helmet and I understand that I can just get new ratchets for free so that's what I'll do.

Anyway, try the cheap one. If it works you saved money and if it blinds you you got a $50 lesson (and sore eyes) that you get what you pay for.

G
Hmm, dozens of uses, never an issue. The only thing to remember is to keep it charged in the sun.

I checked the Lincoln one at Lowes and it was the exact same helmet, for $109.

Jim

PS Then again, I don't buy Snap-on tools either!
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Old 06-08-2011, 10:34 AM   #2061
David R
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Laugh Some of you are funny

Read more about auto darkening helmets. The UV protection is there even if the glass does not darken, so it will not hurt your eyes more than a bright light bulb.

I have "a few" harbor freight auto darkening helmets, All work fine. I don't like the small window compared to my miller, but it is still a welding helmet and I could by 6 HF for the price of the miller or Lincoln.

The HF is not sensitive enough for TIG.

David
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Old 06-08-2011, 11:21 AM   #2062
NitroAcres
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SpeedGlas 9002X,

I have used the one of I have for about 10 yrs everyday, Zero Troube Ever. (I have replaced the batteries about 3 times).
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Old 06-08-2011, 12:52 PM   #2063
tbarstow
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NitroAcres View Post
That is why they make so many different types of welding wire, Proper wire for the base metal, and cross selection for mis-matched base metals.
And all of those many types of welding wire were designed using the previously mentioned Schaeffler diagram.

For the OP's original question, no, don't use mild steel to weld a thin section of stainless if you want a usable weld.
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Old 06-08-2011, 01:08 PM   #2064
mark1305
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hasteloy-X View Post
Why no gas welding of stainless?
Strong Bad made one of the good reasons. Oxygen will contaminate the weld. If you argue that a gas torch can be adjusted toward a carburizing flame, you still have no shielding gas to block free O2 in the atmosphere.

Plus, the extra heat you have to put into a gas weld will often (if not always) raise the SS parent metal to the temp where the various elements start to move around in the alloy itself and the carbon in the SS will move around and reduce the steel's strength in the HAZ (Heat Affected Zone) greatly. In effect, you end up with a weldment that's so-so connecting two pieces where the parent metal in the HAZ is about as strong as cold butter and likely not very stainless either.

Kind of a three-pronged reason gas welding won't work. As for the HAZ aspect, even MIG welding SS with too much heat can cause weakened parent metal. DAMHIK
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Old 06-08-2011, 01:25 PM   #2065
TwoBearBill
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MIG wire size

Quote:
Originally Posted by David R View Post
Lincoln L-56 is the best wire and what I use for some of my best jobs. Yes its available in a 12.5 lb spool for about $30.00 give or take. 25 or 33 lb spools are also available at about $100 each. Home depot may have the 12.5 lb. Esab and others make good wire too, but for some of MY jobs the lincoln runs the best.

It depends on the job and the machine. Pulsed spray All I can run is the Lincoln wire on my V350.

The 12.5 lb spool will not fit in my Miller Passport but is fine in my Lincoln SP100.

I have a few rolls of wire my Local Welding Shop told me is just as good as lincoln. They do not run in pulsed spray mode, so I have 3 opened 30 lb spools of wire that I can't use in that machine. This is why I prefer the L-56.

David
Thanks! I checked Home Depot on line, and they have .030" in stock. I had .025" - do I need to get the .025 specifically, or can I use the .030? Do I have to change anything on my machine to use different sized wire?
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Old 06-08-2011, 05:07 PM   #2066
Fishyhead
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bergermeister View Post
welding helmets...

thoughts on the harbor freight $50 auto darkening?

3M Speedglas 100V?

Thanks!
I own an Optrel Satellite helmet. My company just upgraded our welders to the Jackson auto darkening helmets from cheap HF helmets. The biggest difference is weight. The Optrel seems very light and comfortable to wear.
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Old 06-08-2011, 07:42 PM   #2067
David R
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoBearBill View Post
Thanks! I checked Home Depot on line, and they have .030" in stock. I had .025" - do I need to get the .025 specifically, or can I use the .030? Do I have to change anything on my machine to use different sized wire?
I would find the .023 Or .025 (same stuff). To use .030 you will need different contact tip. Settings will be different and it may be harder to do the thin stuff. I don't know what you are using your welder for.

For the stainless, I try to use the proper filler IF I can find out what the base metal is. The same thing with everything else I weld. A lot of it needs to be back purged with argon. Its a pain in the butt. Red hot stainless in the atmosphere makes for ugly when it cools. It sugars.

David
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Old 06-08-2011, 10:13 PM   #2068
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Old 06-09-2011, 12:05 PM   #2069
bergermeister
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thanks for the thoughts on helmets.

My local supplier sells Washington Alloy helmets quite reasonably. I can't find any info on them.

can anyone comment on these?
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Old 06-11-2011, 07:51 PM   #2070
Schlug
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Never heard of Washington Alloy.

I have my favourite Fibre Metal hood with a pipeliner rig on it, best hood by far. Standard lens. I bought it 15 years or more ago for 35 US dollars with glass. I use it 90% of the time. I learned to weld by flipping my hood, I can still do it, even at my age. (which isn't to say I haven't had my partner flip my hood for me in a tight spot.

I have an old Huntsman with an auto lens in it. The lens has only two pick-ups, and when TIG welding the cup will cover the pickup just right and I'll get flashed. Sure there is UV protection in an auto lens without it being activated. There is also UV protection in any decent pair of safety glasses. It's hard to get a good retina sizzling flash, but 5 or 6 times in one day means you surely feel it at night. But man is that Huntsman light.

Almost every job we work now requires a hard hood with an 'unmodified' hard hat and no bump caps. I have seen an influx of the new Millers (4 or 6 pickups, I can't remember) and very light. But the best hood out there fixed for a hard hat is the Speedglass. Bloody expensive but that is a seriously nice hood in any configuration. The only downside is the glass is special. We are supplied glass in all sizes EXCEPT the odd size of the Speedglass. Lately, the Speedglass has been hard to find, all orders are backordered.

The biggest factors are weight, size, and how well the headgear works.

Certainly a cheap Chinese POS is going to be fine for your average hobby welder who might use his hood once a month. When apprentices buy them they make a go of it until they start to TIG. Then they curse the day.

You can use stainless wire to fix stainless to carbon. The better wire will work with the lesser base metal. The lesser wire will almost never work with the better base metal. What NitroAcres says is true-- the stainless weld with carbon wire will generally crack and often immediately as it cools. Not to mention it usually looks like hammered dog fuck.
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