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Old 07-05-2007, 01:40 PM   #196
DakarNick
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I have a Lincoln 110 at home and a Hobart here at work, I prefer the Lincoln. No, KTM640Dakar didn't pay me to say that

Has anyone ever had flashburn? I did, only once, it sucked
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Old 07-06-2007, 08:48 PM   #197
Caribou Aqua Buddha
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I got to demo a Lincoln Invertec V205 today, nice machine. Seemed to have less arc wander than my Syncro 180, one day I may have to add one of these inverter technology machines.
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Old 07-11-2007, 02:57 PM   #198
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Quote:
Originally Posted by krampus
Thanks for the info guys...very helpful. I went and saw my brother-in-law and agreed that some cutting and patching would be the best. We're gonna try to simply fill the holes first by building up some welds and grinding, he says it's worth a shot. If'n it don't work, then we cut and patch.
I got it down to bare metal and now there are now no less than 20 holes! I then went into the holes with a pointed Dremel grinding bit to remove the thining cancerous areas. Needless to say that there are probably untold numbers of other holes waiting to happen. I'm getting some Red Kote to finish off the job. Here's some updated photos.



Try to find some 304 stainless sheet and make a patch panel out of it. That way you will only have to do it once and it won't rust.

Some good mig welders could spot tack over the holes then grind away the excess. This is probably the hardest way to fix it but it would be the least damaging.
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Old 07-11-2007, 03:03 PM   #199
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Quote:
Originally Posted by openboatt
But was this question answered? I'm in this boat... obt
Check this out. This is the perfect shop setup. It makes deciding what to buy easier since you get it all.

http://www.lincolnelectric.com/produ...IG-Package.asp
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Old 07-12-2007, 09:47 AM   #200
gsweave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KTM640Dakar
Try to find some 304 stainless sheet and make a patch panel out of it. That way you will only have to do it once and it won't rust.


Somebody say they needed .017, 304 sheet for a Guzzi ressurection?

Pm me.
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Old 07-12-2007, 02:15 PM   #201
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pan welding

I do some side work that involves chopping about an inch off of a subaru steel oil pan and then weld a 1/8 plate back on for offroad cars,I usually use ER-70-6 but have seen silicone bronze used, what do you suggest?The er-70-6 takes more talent and fitment ,but the silicone bronze is faster but looks cheap.....Steve
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Old 07-12-2007, 02:21 PM   #202
MikeyT
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[quote=KTM640Dakar]
Quote:
Originally Posted by gsweave
Glad your here.

Should we retire this old Carbon arc machine? She cuts 2" Niconel like a bitch.












Hey all kidding around aside

It may be ugly, but this portable, 480V machine can really burn some nice stainless welds.


That old SAM 400 is one of the smoothest arc welders of all of the stick welders that we made. In fact most modern inverter based welding power supplies are designed to copy the output of that machine. That machine is a true generator welder. That is why it is so heavy and has a ton of copper windings in it. One end of the machine has an electric motor which in turn spins an electric generator on the other end that make the welding power. If you replace the brushes on the gen set of that welder it could last forever. The name plate paint usually wears off of them before the machine wears out.

Most of your WWII ships were built using that machine.
A place I worked for a few years ago had a similar machine made by Hobart. Some guy was going around selling them as salvage out of the back of his pickup. The boss paid $100? for it. We rewired it for 240 and replaced the fine current rheostat and it worked a wonder. I wish I had a way to run one like it at home.
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Old 07-12-2007, 02:25 PM   #203
hayduke357
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ready welder

I have a ready welder works off car batties, it has worked well for the offroad stuff, but i was wondering if i could set up my old cj5 with a 24v set up and just step down the rest of the stuff like the guages that work and the lights. what ya think? then i could just leave the jeep running while welding and not have to worry about power drop? That is once i have some money just saying.
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Old 07-16-2007, 12:33 PM   #204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROUNDSTOCK
I do some side work that involves chopping about an inch off of a subaru steel oil pan and then weld a 1/8 plate back on for offroad cars,I usually use ER-70-6 but have seen silicone bronze used, what do you suggest?The er-70-6 takes more talent and fitment ,but the silicone bronze is faster but looks cheap.....Steve

The ER70S-6 is classified as a mild steel wire with 70,000 pounds per square inch of tensile strength. Silicon bronze wire has much less tensile strength. The good thing about Silicone Bronze welding wire (SiBr) is that it is great for arc brazing very thin sheet metal. It is very forgiving since you actually braze the metal together rather than melting the parent metal. Typically I see a lot of MIG welding with Silicon Bronze filler wire in situations where you are welding two sheets of mild steel that are less than 1.2mm thick. Since it is forgiving you can get away with not burning through the parent sheet metal.

And for the downside. Silicon bronze wire's strength comes from having a large surface area of the weld to gain it's strength. Since the tensile strength of a SiBr weld is say 1/10 the strength of steel you would need a 10X size weld. So you don't see alot of use of silicon Bronze weld wires for heavy or thick material. For a gas tank or other cosmetic application it works great. I would not use it to fix my kids swing set or build a skyscraper if you know what i mean.
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Old 07-16-2007, 12:38 PM   #205
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[quote=RatBob]
Quote:
Originally Posted by KTM640Dakar

A place I worked for a few years ago had a similar machine made by Hobart. Some guy was going around selling them as salvage out of the back of his pickup. The boss paid $100? for it. We rewired it for 240 and replaced the fine current rheostat and it worked a wonder. I wish I had a way to run one like it at home.
Me too. Especially for the 150 pounds of copper windings in them that every scrap dealer would give you $1200 for.
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Old 07-16-2007, 12:40 PM   #206
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bengtspoke
I got to demo a Lincoln Invertec V205 today, nice machine. Seemed to have less arc wander than my Syncro 180, one day I may have to add one of these inverter technology machines.
Wait a few weeks and the 300 Amp version will be out in the market. That will be the one to get. It will have all of the features of the 205T but will go to 350 amps.
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Old 07-18-2007, 06:58 PM   #207
perrybwell
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welding on factor footpegs

i'm thinking about welding some plate steel on my factory pegs,after taking the rubber part off of course.Oh yeah i own a klr 650 so if anyone knows what i should do that would be great
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Old 07-18-2007, 10:29 PM   #208
openboatt
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Thanks DK

Quote:
Originally Posted by KTM640Dakar
Check this out. This is the perfect shop setup. It makes deciding what to buy easier since you get it all.

http://www.lincolnelectric.com/produ...IG-Package.asp

I'll study this. . . obt
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Old 07-19-2007, 08:27 AM   #209
gsweave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by openboatt
But was this question answered? I'm in this boat... obt


Hey, at home I just use a lincoln stick welder. Nice cheapsetup. Will do just about everything. Including Alum with practice.

But I use stick at work often on lots of crazy shit so, it doesn't bother me.


Many feel mig is easier.
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Old 07-21-2007, 04:40 PM   #210
GSWayne
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Problem TIG welding a steel center stand

I was shortening my centerstand, and after grinding off the paint for about a inch around the area I was going to weld, and then wiping it down with Laquer thinner for good measure, I was having trouble TIG welding it. The puddle seemed to occasionally bubble and spark. I was using ER70S-2 welding rod, a Weldcraft WP-20 torch, 13N09 cup, a 1/16" Lanthanated tungsten, 15 CFH of Argon, a Thermal-Arc 185TSW set for 100A max current, DCEN and foot pedal control. Test welds on 1/8" mild steel seemed to be fine. It would seem like some kind of contamination but I don't know from what. Any clues as to what I was doing wrong?
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