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Old 11-22-2011, 03:46 PM   #2311
motu
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Benesesso View Post
Big difference between "cannot" and should not.

I've done a lot of should nots...some times best practice is just not an option. A boiler maker I once worked with said there was no such thing as a vertical down weld,he called it a farmer's weld. Of course there was a reason he would tell me that,but sometimes you just have to do the only weld you can do.
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Old 11-25-2011, 09:02 PM   #2312
KTM640Dakar OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JagLite View Post
Here is the deal, I have a DR650 and want to mount up a GSXR muffler (a popular mod)
I want to make up my own exhaust midpipe by cutting and welding the stock stainless tubes into a new shape. (from another bike)
I have a Miller 220v and regular mix gas (c02/argon) and regular .30 wire.
The welds will not be seen and the pipe is mounted at 3 points so it should not see excessive vibration.

I really don't want to buy another tank for straight argon and a spool of ss wire to do the couple welds I need.
What happens when welding ss with mix gas and steel wire?

If this is a dumb question, I am not surprised, I am teaching myself how to weld as there is NO source of instruction here.
I asked at the shop where I bought my equipment, (they sold me a book and a video) the local university (have to take all required courses, not just mig) and I posted on the local forums asking about a private teacher but no luck. I do have fun though!
Use Blue Max 309LSi mig wire. You should use 98% Argon 2%Oxygen gas. Or a trimix of Ar,He,trace CO2.


It is possible to weld stainless with mild steel and 75/25 but it will rust. And is not recommended.

This MIG welder uses 110V or 220V.

POWER MIG® 180 DUAL MIG WELDER
PRODUCT NAME POWER MIG® 180 Dual MIG Welder
PRODUCT NUMBER K3018-1
INPUT POWER
120/1/60 or 208/230/1/60
RATED OUTPUT
120V:90A/19.5V/20%
208V: 130A/17.6V/30%
230V: 130A/20V/30%
INPUT CURRENT
20A
OUTPUT RANGE
120V: 30-140 Amps DC
230V: 30-180 Amps DC
DIMENSIONS (H X W X D) 14 in x 10.15 in x 18.16 in (357 mm x 258 mm x 472 mm)
NET WEIGHT 66.800 lbs. (30.300 kg.)
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KTM640Dakar screwed with this post 11-25-2011 at 09:17 PM
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Old 11-25-2011, 09:33 PM   #2313
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kubiak View Post
is it ok to weld chromoly tubing with a mig welder that has flux core steel wire?

Chromoly tubing is usually welded with E80S-D2 mig wire (Lincoln Superarc LA-90). The flux cored wire would be Outershield 91K2H.

Typically most mild steel flux cored wire like Innershield NR211 is an E70T-1 and is lacking chrome and moly so is 10Ksi less tensile strength. You can do it with mild steel fluxcore wire but it won't be the strongest weld you could get.
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Old 11-26-2011, 03:41 PM   #2314
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fxstbiluigi View Post
Most likly the welds were brushed with a mild steel brush or a stainless brush that had been contaminated with mild steel since stainless cannot be welded with mild steel.
Like some of the reply posts between the quote and this reply, yes you can and there is a big difference between cannot and should not. A quick check with a magnet told me there was mild steel filler in the header welds. Plus I have screwed around and tried mild steel filler on SS parent metal coupons and vice versa just to see wetting, puddle and flow characteristics when mis-matching materials.
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Old 11-26-2011, 05:49 PM   #2315
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Mild steel E.M.T. TIG welded to stainless OEM muffler. Spraybombed with high-heat ceramic paint. No rust, no issues after over a year and many, many miles of riding in the rain.

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Old 11-30-2011, 07:07 AM   #2316
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Let's see how quickly I can make myself unpopular in this thread!

I just bought a HF arc welder.
This one:
http://www.harborfreight.com/135-ac-...der-97719.html

The specs say it's 135 amp AC and 105 amp DCEN/DCEP and will weld mild steel, stainless steel and cast iron.

I'd rather have a name brand welder, but I picked this one up on the last day of the recent sidewalk sale for $32 OTD.

I've taken welding classes years ago and really like stick welding, it's something I took to right off the bat. It didn't take long before I was good enough to lay nice welds (passed all the tests) and I even did well on small diameter tubing.

But I've read several threads here and abroad where people are pretty much of the opinion that arc welding isn't good enough to do anything with. What's up with that? I was going to pick up one of those hobby MIG welders... would that be a better idea?
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Old 11-30-2011, 09:40 AM   #2317
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlySniper View Post

Let's see how quickly I can make myself unpopular in this thread!

I just bought a HF arc welder.
This one:
http://www.harborfreight.com/135-ac-...der-97719.html

The specs say it's 135 amp AC and 105 amp DCEN/DCEP and will weld mild steel, stainless steel and cast iron.

I'd rather have a name brand welder, but I picked this one up on the last day of the recent sidewalk sale for $32 OTD.

I've taken welding classes years ago and really like stick welding, it's something I took to right off the bat. It didn't take long before I was good enough to lay nice welds (passed all the tests) and I even did well on small diameter tubing.

But I've read several threads here and abroad where people are pretty much of the opinion that arc welding isn't good enough to do anything with. What's up with that? I was going to pick up one of those hobby MIG welders... would that be a better idea?
Those are just the Pretentious Welder Fookwits, don't mind them.

I have this one from Harbor Freight http://www.harborfreight.com/80-amp-...der-91110.html

What I need these days are prescription magnifying monofocal glasses, with a solenoid flip up mechanism. (Read: Prescription single-grind high-diopter glasses, with an electric flip-up mechanism. Similar to MLB flip-up sunglasses, only remote-controlled/automatic.)


http://www.franklinsports.com/fsm/b2.../2007/2125.jpg



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Poolside screwed with this post 11-30-2011 at 09:46 AM
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Old 11-30-2011, 10:16 AM   #2318
tmgs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poolside View Post
Those are just the Pretentious Welder Fookwits, don't mind them.

I have this one from Harbor Freight http://www.harborfreight.com/80-amp-...der-91110.html

What I need these days are prescription magnifying monofocal glasses, with a solenoid flip up mechanism. (Read: Prescription single-grind high-diopter glasses, with an electric flip-up mechanism. Similar to MLB flip-up sunglasses, only remote-controlled/automatic.)
http://www.franklinsports.com/fsm/b2.../2007/2125.jpg


or a set of these http://pixeloptics.com/pages/electronic_eyewear.html

I'm actually going to go look at pair soon, I have got to check them out
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Old 11-30-2011, 11:29 AM   #2319
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Neat idea!

I've tried both the visible and the invisible/gradient bifocal lenses, and I don't like them. I don't need a lens out past 18 inches or so. And I just can't seem to get comfortable having 2 different 'fields' in view at the same time.



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Old 12-03-2011, 06:13 AM   #2320
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Question on welding and electricity. Just got my bill and wow, I had to go check the meter because I was in shock. My average electric bill is $50, this month $90. I had my friends over using my garage for an engine swap and my welder was pulled out for three things.

1. Repairing engine mount cradle - 10 minutes at most
2. Welding a bracket onto steering rack - Couple minutes
3. Welding together one section of exhaust - 5 to 10 minutes
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Old 12-03-2011, 06:19 AM   #2321
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You got of cheap.

Did you factor in daylight siavings? My light bill always goes way up in the winter because the lights are on longer every day. That combined w/a bit of welding could be the difference.





Quote:
Originally Posted by dan0 View Post
Question on welding and electricity. Just got my bill and wow, I had to go check the meter because I was in shock. My average electric bill is $50, this month $90. I had my friends over using my garage for an engine swap and my welder was pulled out for three things.

1. Repairing engine mount cradle - 10 minutes at most
2. Welding a bracket onto steering rack - Couple minutes
3. Welding together one section of exhaust - 5 to 10 minutes
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Old 12-03-2011, 06:23 AM   #2322
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bosco View Post
You got of cheap.

Did you factor in daylight siavings? My light bill always goes way up in the winter because the lights are on longer every day. That combined w/a bit of welding could be the difference.
Nope didn't factor that in, or a couple loads of laundry through the dryer, since drying outside isn't as effective now. Just shocked. I've been in my house for 3.5 years and other than one month trying to run an a/c unit 24/7 my bill has never been over $50.
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Old 12-03-2011, 03:45 PM   #2323
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Just got given a lot of industrial cleaner.
It says it's 20% Phosphoric Acid, supposedly great for cleaning stainless steel and porcelain sinks and removing rust and calcium from stuff. I've got like 6 spray/squirt bottles (1 quart each)

I was wondering if it would be good for prepping steel prior to welding.
Is it? Any fumes/hazards I should know about?
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Old 12-07-2011, 04:32 PM   #2324
KTM640Dakar OP
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Welding Safety

This link has everything regarding welding safety that you should know.

http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us...ng-safety.aspx


Be careful with solvents when welding. Make sure that they are evaporated away before welding on the metal both for explosive reasons, as well as, fume/poison reasons.
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Old 12-12-2011, 11:02 PM   #2325
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I'm shopping for Plasma cutters...

I have maybe a dumb question. I need to replace some rusted 1/8" plate.

would it be possible (plausible/advisable/dumb?) to just c-clamp a new piece on top, and then use a plasma cutter to cut the old and the new together at the same time and then just weld it in?

Seems like you could do pretty complicated shapes really quickly if it can be done, but also seems too good to be true so
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