Ask your WELDING questions here.

[Whitebread117]

mig - shorter learning curve, much faster, changing over for different materials is slower but easily done if you keep a variety of wire/gas on hand. No aluminum unless you invest in a spoolgun. Able to run gasless with flux core for outdoor "dirty" welding environments.

Tig- slower, steeper learning curve (but not bad), Changing materials is very fast and doesn't require additional accessories. Very clean process. Various gas cups etc available to help keep weld puddle shielded but still not a good choice for windy outdoor use.

I prefer TIG most of the time, but if I were buying a unit for my garage for mainly carbon steel hobby type welding it'd be MIG in a heartbeat. Especially if I ever saw myself welding outdoors.

[Danjal]

Originally Posted by Whitebread117

mig - shorter learning curve, much faster, changing over for different materials is slower but easily done if you keep a variety of wire/gas on hand. No aluminum unless you invest in a spoolgun. Able to run gasless with flux core for outdoor "dirty" welding environments.

Tig- slower, steeper learning curve (but not bad), Changing materials is very fast and doesn't require additional accessories. Very clean process. Various gas cups etc available to help keep weld puddle shielded but still not a good choice for windy outdoor use.

I prefer TIG most of the time, but if I were buying a unit for my garage for mainly carbon steel hobby type welding it'd be MIG in a heartbeat. Especially if I ever saw myself welding outdoors.

Ive welded aluminum/steel before as a profession. MIG ESAB on aluminum and MIG Millers on the steel. Cant recall the model exactly, its been years and probably a moot point anyway. Learned stick in HS and around the house. I can stick decently, but not as good as a mig. Managed to stick sheet more than a few times that gas and migs werent available. Didnt look pretty but it held.

TIG is a new thing to me. Talked about how they worked, saw em, never used one. All welding would be done in a garage unless the job was too big to come inside. Maybe a fan for venting at most so the gas wouldnt be too much of an issue.

Mostly im looking at which is more useful in a home environment. Work on cars, bikes, various household objects. Mig splatters some, but its not too bad. Tig is supposed to be almost cleanup free after the weld. Stick.. dirty, sloppy, messy.

[Whitebread117]

If you have some experience welding then TIG will be most versatile. One bottle of argon with an AC/DC box and you can swap materials just by changing filler rod and adjusting power. Cast to stainless to aluminum to carbon is quick and easy. The welding process is slower though. Your right in that cleanup is minimal or not required. Mig CAN be that clean, but not in my hands usually and is much faster for quick repair type work.

[David R]

Originally Posted by Danjal

So tig vs mig for general home/hobbist use. Your thoughts?

I usually tig sitting on a stool.

David

[mark1305]

Originally Posted by JagLite

Here is the deal, I have a DR650 and want to mount up a GSXR muffler (a popular mod)
I want to make up my own exhaust midpipe by cutting and welding the stock stainless tubes into a new shape. (from another bike)
I have a Miller 220v and regular mix gas (c02/argon) and regular .30 wire.
The welds will not be seen and the pipe is mounted at 3 points so it should not see excessive vibration.

I really don't want to buy another tank for straight argon and a spool of ss wire to do the couple welds I need.
What happens when welding ss with mix gas and steel wire?

If this is a dumb question, I am not surprised, I am teaching myself how to weld as there is NO source of instruction here.
I asked at the shop where I bought my equipment, (they sold me a book and a video) the local university (have to take all required courses, not just mig) and I posted on the local forums asking about a private teacher but no luck. I do have fun though!

I keep a 2lb spool of SS wire on hand - without walking out to the shop, I think its 308 or 308L. For welding SS parts like motorcycle exhausts, various brackets, etc. I just swap in the SS wire and run with my regular C25 gas mix. The weldment will have some brown color to it, but it cleans off with a wire wheel and I've never had any problems with rust later on from the little bit of carbon in the gas. Cleaning off the discolored area may be helping. Do avoid putting excess heat into SS as that will cause carbon and other molecules in the SS to migrate causing significant weakening in the HAZ and probably kill the stainless properties as well. I discoverd that tidbit while experimenting with welding 1/16 & 1/8 stainless rod in a small project (no pun intended ).

I have some old SS headers that someone cut and rewelded with carbon steel wire - the joints are rusting, so toss that idea.

[fxstbiluigi]

Originally Posted by mark1305

I keep a 2lb spool of SS wire on hand - without walking out to the shop, I think its 308 or 308L. For welding SS parts like motorcycle exhausts, various brackets, etc. I just swap in the SS wire and run with my regular C25 gas mix. The weldment will have some brown color to it, but it cleans off with a wire wheel and I've never had any problems with rust later on from the little bit of carbon in the gas. Cleaning off the discolored area may be helping. Do avoid putting excess heat into SS as that will cause carbon and other molecules in the SS to migrate causing significant weakening in the HAZ and probably kill the stainless properties as well. I discoverd that tidbit while experimenting with welding 1/16 & 1/8 stainless rod in a small project (no pun intended ).

I have some old SS headers that someone cut and rewelded with carbon steel wire - the joints are rusting, so toss that idea.

Most likly the welds were brushed with a mild steel brush or a stainless brush that had been contaminated with mild steel since stainless cannot be welded with mild steel.

[bcguide]

You can oxy acy weld stainles steel use a slightly carbonised flame
scott

[the_gr8t_waldo]

i use a lincon stick welder . the current project is a set of railings for the home . currently working with e7018 3/32nds. with the last pruchase of 5lb package of rods, i've noticed that the new stock is hard to strike and maintain an arc. ..and if i stop almost impossible to re lite. i am about to start again on the final section of the railing, and would like to avoid the hassel of trying to use up the last 2 or so pounds of rod that i have left. i've been buying from a local/reputable welding supply company. but if i'm getting sub standard welding rod would rather drive 100 miles for a aulternative supply place. than buy from someplace that would pass off bad goods. i only weld for personal use and am currently unemployed so i can't even ask more knowledgable welders on a job site. i have gone over the welding leads for loose connections and they check out fine.so i'm at a loss as to why the problems. other than bad rods- but i want to be fair since i assume that they'r other possibilities... any thoughts on what the problem could be?

[Skippii]

Originally Posted by fxstbiluigi

stainless cannot be welded with mild steel.

What???

I have welded stainless steel with 7014 and 6013 many times. Sure, it rusts, but otherwise I've never had any problems*


*Well, beyond my usual problems with any kind of welding.

[Skippii]

Originally Posted by the_gr8t_waldo

i use a lincon stick welder . the current project is a set of railings for the home . currently working with e7018 3/32nds. with the last pruchase of 5lb package of rods, i've noticed that the new stock is hard to strike and maintain an arc. ..and if i stop almost impossible to re lite. i am about to start again on the final section of the railing, and would like to avoid the hassel of trying to use up the last 2 or so pounds of rod that i have left. i've been buying from a local/reputable welding supply company. but if i'm getting sub standard welding rod would rather drive 100 miles for a aulternative supply place. than buy from someplace that would pass off bad goods. i only weld for personal use and am currently unemployed so i can't even ask more knowledgable welders on a job site. i have gone over the welding leads for loose connections and they check out fine.so i'm at a loss as to why the problems. other than bad rods- but i want to be fair since i assume that they'r other possibilities... any thoughts on what the problem could be?

There are different types of 7018 rod. Most 7018 is sold for use on DC, but there are also rods made for AC or DC use. They are different in their behavior and characteristics, so check them.
7018 is also know for being affected by dampness when not stored in an oven.

Out of curiosity, why 7018? Some people like that rod, but I don't know of any advantages it has over 7014 or 6013 in places where hydrogen embrittle is not an issue. Certainly, the storage issue is enough for me not to bother with it.

[NitroAcres]

Originally Posted by Skippii

What???

I have welded stainless steel with 7014 and 6013 many times. Sure, it rusts, but otherwise I've never had any problems*

*Well, beyond my usual problems with any kind of welding.

Makes me wonder why they even bother making any different types of rod, if all you really need is steel....,... perhaps you can even weld Aluminum and Ti using 6010/7018, I mean hell why not? their both weldin rods....hummmmm.

[JagLite]

Originally Posted by mark1305

I keep a 2lb spool of SS wire on hand - without walking out to the shop, I think its 308 or 308L. For welding SS parts like motorcycle exhausts, various brackets, etc. I just swap in the SS wire and run with my regular C25 gas mix. The weldment will have some brown color to it, but it cleans off with a wire wheel and I've never had any problems with rust later on from the little bit of carbon in the gas. Cleaning off the discolored area may be helping. Do avoid putting excess heat into SS as that will cause carbon and other molecules in the SS to migrate causing significant weakening in the HAZ and probably kill the stainless properties as well. I discoverd that tidbit while experimenting with welding 1/16 & 1/8 stainless rod in a small project (no pun intended ).

I have some old SS headers that someone cut and rewelded with carbon steel wire - the joints are rusting, so toss that idea.

Thanks, I appreciate that several have offered workable suggestions.
I went to our local welding supply after work yesterday and told them what I wanted to do and they immediately said to use 309. (Or maybe 308.... I can't remember now, but they were positive it would be fine for my needs.) Only thing is they don't have any....

Now I can try the various other places that carry minimal welding supplies and see if anyone else might have it. Probably not though...

Ah, the joys of living in Alaska.

Anything we could possibly want is available.
Outside (Lower 48), if we are willing to pay the horrendous shipping to get it here.

[Skippii]

Originally Posted by NitroAcres

Makes me wonder why they even bother making any different types of rod, if all you really need is steel....,... perhaps you can even weld Aluminum and Ti using 6010/7018, I mean hell why not? their both weldin rods....hummmmm.

I have tried stick/arc welding aluminum with 6013, aluminum tig rods, and zinc brazing rods. It does not work. I tried putting a large nail in the stick welder and trying to use that like a Tig. It failed. I've also tried stick welding steel with a fluxed bronze brazing rod. That didn't work, either.

My point is, I'm an expert at failed attempts at ill-advised welding choices.
But mild steel rods rods just fine. (Well, except for welds rusting.)

But welding stainless with 7014? I couldn't tell a difference between mild and stainless. Both seem to work the same, same penetration, same slag, etc. On of the guys on this forum later gave me tube of BlueMax stainless rods to try. Yes, they work better, because they don't rust. I think I actually can weld stainless with the Bluemax rods better than mild with 7014. That's probably just because I suck at welding.

[Benesesso]

Originally Posted by fxstbiluigi

Most likly the welds were brushed with a mild steel brush or a stainless brush that had been contaminated with mild steel since stainless cannot be welded with mild steel.

You might not want to bet the farm on that. Big difference between "cannot" and should not.

[fxstbiluigi]

Ya, I found out today that automotive exhaust and I don't know what else may be made of a low grade ss can be welded with mild steel.
Practically all the stainless I have had experience with has been 304, 308 or 316 and some stuff from Rolled Alioys (don't remember the #) that was used on a chemical incenerator.