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Old 03-20-2012, 11:27 PM   #2596
atpalmer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
1. Weld it with antifreeze well above the repair. It will help keep the joints from popping loose, they look like some form of solder.

2. I'd bend two u-shaped rods from 1/8" welding rod, with something like 4" legs to go around the outside edge of the broken piece, one above and one under, acting like legs to reach onto the cooler. Do quick tack welds around the length of both to fasten the broken tab to the cooler. Pic 4 shows the rolled over section of the cooler where I'd run the 1/8" U repairs. One under the curl and one above it. Looks powder coating, you'll have to clean it off to bare metal.

3. If you don't know what I'm talking about, wait til tomorrow and I'll draw lines on your pics. g'nite

4. Run right over to the Flea Market and post in the WTB and find a replacement.

5. E-Bay too.
thanks ER,
I see what you're saying. So weld the broken piece to the U's and weld the U's to long part of the cooler (no oil in that leg) should I also tack the broken piece to the cooler or avoid that area altogether?
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Old 03-21-2012, 12:54 AM   #2597
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If you try to MIG weld that, you will almost certainly either destroy the cooler completely, or the repair will fail very quickly. Find a competent TIG welder, and ask them to do a braze repair with 4047 filler...............its still a very fiddly job though, and ideally the repair area needs to be blast cleaned before carrying out the repair work.
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Old 03-21-2012, 01:39 AM   #2598
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2
weld toward comfy.
Had to add that to my sig.
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Old 03-21-2012, 03:32 AM   #2599
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Weld your oil cooler, humble yourself, buy a replacement. What I am saying is that is one tough thing to weld successfully.
David
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Old 03-21-2012, 06:45 AM   #2600
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Originally Posted by twin-shocker View Post
if you try to mig weld that, you will almost certainly either destroy the cooler completely, or the repair will fail very quickly. Find a competent tig welder, and ask them to do a braze repair with 4047 filler...............its still a very fiddly job though, and ideally the repair area needs to be blast cleaned before carrying out the repair work.
+1
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Old 03-21-2012, 11:27 AM   #2601
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Originally Posted by atpalmer View Post
thanks ER,
I see what you're saying. So weld the broken piece to the U's and weld the U's to long part of the cooler (no oil in that leg) should I also tack the broken piece to the cooler or avoid that area altogether?
Probably not, that's too close to the existing solder/braze joints.

Quote:
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Had to add that to my sig.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Twin-shocker View Post
If you try to MIG weld that, you will almost certainly either destroy the cooler completely, or the repair will fail very quickly. Find a competent TIG welder, and ask them to do a braze repair with 4047 filler...............its still a very fiddly job though, and ideally the repair area needs to be blast cleaned before carrying out the repair work.
Quote:
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Weld your oil cooler, humble yourself, buy a replacement.
David


David R and Twin-shocker are telling you the real truth.
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Old 03-21-2012, 12:33 PM   #2602
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Probably not, that's too close to the existing solder/braze joints.







David R and Twin-shocker are telling you the real truth.
Well, I need to fool myself into believing I can do it successfully first. Then I'll start looking for a replacement.
Will the Argon make it more difficult? The bottle is low so I won't lose much by refilling it with a new mix. is %75 Co2/25% argon the preferred mix for this type of weld?
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Old 03-21-2012, 12:50 PM   #2603
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Well, I need to fool myself into believing I can do it successfully first. Then I'll start looking for a replacement.
I do that too and every once in a while I save something.

Quote:
Will the Argon make it more difficult? The bottle is low so I won't lose much by refilling it with a new mix. is %75 Co2/25% argon the preferred mix for this type of weld?
Bump: because I don't know.
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Old 03-21-2012, 01:02 PM   #2604
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Are you sure that cooler is not aluminum? C/25 Is the preferred gas. Pure argon is for tig or mig aluminum.
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Old 03-21-2012, 01:06 PM   #2605
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Thumb

I have the same bike (2004) and you're right, my magnet won't stick to the broken piece.
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Old 03-21-2012, 01:47 PM   #2606
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Talking Welding oil cooler

Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
I have the same bike (2004) and you're right, my magnet won't stick to the broken piece.
Hmmm, would this be an appropriate situation for welding with tubes?

JB Welding for example?

Or from my boat building days, epoxy and fiberglass will solve everything.

Or now that I am in Alaska, DUCT TAPE!
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Old 03-21-2012, 04:18 PM   #2607
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It's probably alum. clean both pieces to bare metal and weld the area away from the tubes, That should/will allow you to ride while you are waiting for the new oil cooler to arrive. That way when the current cooler mount fails again (hopefully) after the new oil cooler arrives you will have a replacement on hand.
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Old 03-21-2012, 04:54 PM   #2608
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I work on some plate heat exchangers or oil coolers. The last ones I had were stainless prototype. .014" thick. That is foil. I could repair one, the other was not accessible with a tig torch or I just muffed it.

You will have better luck with aluminum solder stuff and a propane torch.

Perhaps some screws or rivets and a "splint" or two. If it does not leak now, it might if you try to weld it.

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David R screwed with this post 03-21-2012 at 06:32 PM
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Old 03-21-2012, 11:08 PM   #2609
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atpalmer View Post
Well, I need to fool myself into believing I can do it successfully first. Then I'll start looking for a replacement.
Will the Argon make it more difficult? The bottle is low so I won't lose much by refilling it with a new mix. is %75 Co2/25% argon the preferred mix for this type of weld?
You cant repair this yourself, and using the wrong shielding gas would make the repair impossible even if you had a TIG set, the correct filler rod, and knew exactly how to use it.

If you can find a used replacement, then thats probably the sensible option, but if its for a very rare bike and used parts are difficult/impossible, then a repair should be possible by a skilled TIG welder, using 4047 brazing rod.
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Old 03-22-2012, 09:26 AM   #2610
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Yeah welding aluminum makes it a lot more difficult, out of my reach for now. I do know someone with a TIG welder though.
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