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Old 03-30-2012, 02:19 PM   #2641
Krazyjohnny
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The method for that I have seen used would be to install a carbon rod into the hole you are wanting to maintain round and then weld in the crack. I have also seen a hole drilled in the small end of the crack to elimimate the stress point and stop the fracture.

As far as weldedrs go Lincoln, Miller/Hobart, and Esab are the commonly seen in most production shops.



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I need a butt-kicking TIG welder that can weld up a small crack radiating from a small pilot bearing hole in an MC crankcase. Gotta keep the hole round so that I can press in a new pilot bearing after the weld.

The hole is about 10mm wide. He will need to V-out and weld the crack I guess.

Know anyone good as this sort of stuff?
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Old 03-30-2012, 04:11 PM   #2642
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Talking

A used brand name mig beats the crap out of a new cheapo.

IF you understand the limitations of a 110 mig, go for it. I have used the inexpensive models and the wire feed sucks. With inconsistent wire feed, you are guaranteed a crappy weld.

True mig instead of gasless or flux core makes a nicer weld with almost no spatter.

David
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Old 03-30-2012, 07:06 PM   #2643
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Thanks for the input guys. I'm going to watch CL for a couple months and save up some cash to get one of the 220v good quality MIGs. Looks like they run 400+ used without the tank, but I know where I can rent the tank locally.

I don't "want" to wait. Go go instant gratification, but I'm going to wait anyway.

Alton screwed with this post 03-30-2012 at 07:18 PM
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Old 03-30-2012, 08:49 PM   #2644
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I don't "want" to wait. Go go instant gratification,
This is bad for your future economy.
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but I'm going to wait anyway.
This is good for your future economy.

Buy good tools, they aren't an expense, they're an investment. If you buy cheap crap, you'll get to cuss it every time you use it...............forever.
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Old 03-30-2012, 09:24 PM   #2645
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Is there any way to save welding cables once the rubber coating starts to break. I have 100 ft of heavy cable and the coating is pretty much shot
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Old 03-31-2012, 04:57 PM   #2646
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Is there any way to save welding cables once the rubber coating starts to break. I have 100 ft of heavy cable and the coating is pretty much shot
Scott
Here is a random idea I have never tried .
You could try cutting the ends off some garden hose and pulling the cable through that. Probably two 50 foot lengths with a plastic coupler in the center. Pull the cable through 50 feet at a time. You could use a wire fishing tape or perhaps try blowing some string through with an air compressor to use to pull the welding cable through. Probably want to use some wire pulling lubricant when you are trying to get the cable through.
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Old 03-31-2012, 11:51 PM   #2647
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Alton,

Have you considered an oxy-acetylene setup? Yes, you'll need two tanks instead of one, but used torches are pretty easy to find.
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Old 04-01-2012, 07:32 AM   #2648
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Alton,

Have you considered an oxy-acetylene setup? Yes, you'll need two tanks instead of one, but used torches are pretty easy to find.
I've been wondering about this...I'd like to be able to do some light welding, but the electrical service in my garage is sketchy at best. I did a little OA welding in college and it seems like it could probably handle whatever little projects I came up with. Any huge downsides?
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Old 04-01-2012, 07:58 AM   #2649
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The only downside to having an OA setup that I found was the near $1000 increase in homeowners insurance.

Check with your insurance agent.
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Old 04-01-2012, 09:46 AM   #2650
David R
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When I started a forklift repair business, all I had were torches on my truck. I could do a lot. Cutting, welding and heating things to get them apart. If you can become proficient with torches, you have the best start to be an excellent welder.
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Old 04-01-2012, 10:04 AM   #2651
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The only downside to having an OA setup that I found was the near $1000 increase in homeowners insurance.

Check with your insurance agent.
How'd they figure that you had the OA setup?
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Old 04-01-2012, 11:03 AM   #2652
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I had a similar problem, old house, no 220v. So I bought Sear's best O/A torches. They served me well for 16 years. Easier to use once you know how to set a neutral flame: no wire feed issues, almost no contamination issues. If you can solder, you can probably weld with a torch.
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Old 04-01-2012, 11:32 AM   #2653
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How'd they figure that you had the OA setup?

I checked with them before I bought a torch set and didn't but a torch set.

I'd hate to have burned down the garage and then found out that they wouldn't cover the damage.
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Old 04-01-2012, 11:56 AM   #2654
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Do you have a propane torch in the basement that you use occasionally?
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Old 04-07-2012, 12:26 AM   #2655
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I want to be a better tig welder. To this end I've finally signed up for a class at the local community college but I think that what I'm specifically trying to accomplish is not really something they deal with. Anyway, my end goal (outside of being better) is to build a set of headers for my KTM 990 out of stainless. My build thread is over here: Mission Creep. Skip to the end for the pipes.

So I've sourced .065 wall 304 prebends. The fabbing is going well. The welding needs work. So, onto my questions.

Here's some samples of what I did in my class today. When I say class I mean I'm just in my little cubical with coupons - there's very little instruction.





And my best section:



So, here's my questions.

Obviously I don't want to "cook" the stainless but I kept taking the amps down and down until it seemed like it would barely melt the parent metal and then, only very slowly, could I feed rod. Oh, specs.

I'm using a 1/16 2% tungsten, I started with 1/16" filler but it seemed to need more heat and so I was getting sugar. I decided to swap to the next smaller size which was .035 and that seemed to make a big difference. I should shoot the back of those welds but most of them show sugar through the back when I was up over 40-45 amps. Lower and I was just getting the rainbow on the back but no full pen. These are butt welds on probably .050-.065 stainless sheet.

My impression is that the control needed is way finer than I would have guessed. I would have thought you'd have a window of 10-15 amps where you could weld but it seems more like 2-3 amps. Is this really the case? How the hell do you get that nice golden weld when it seems like that temp is just barely on the verge of melting the stainless? Why does it seem that adding filler, at the same amperage, makes the weld hotter? I can fuse at 45 amps but add filler and 45 amps seems to cook it and I end up with gray dull welds.

Another question: I've always thought you wanted full penetration but my instructor was saying that full pen on the back of stainless will give you sugar and you've cooked the chromium out of it and weakened it. Are you going for something like 90-95% penetration? On my headers I have an argon purge set up but should I be trying to not fully penetrate? There was a sample in the classroom of a flawless stainless weld of a pipe to a flange and there was only the hint of color on the back with a tiny felt bump where the weld would be but no real distortion and certainly no penetration to the other side. Is that what I'm going for?

I'll have more questions but feedback on this so far would be helpful.

Thanks!

Gregor
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