Ask your WELDING questions here.

[Twin-shocker]

Originally Posted by atpalmer

Well, I need to fool myself into believing I can do it successfully first. Then I'll start looking for a replacement.
Will the Argon make it more difficult? The bottle is low so I won't lose much by refilling it with a new mix. is %75 Co2/25% argon the preferred mix for this type of weld?

You cant repair this yourself, and using the wrong shielding gas would make the repair impossible even if you had a TIG set, the correct filler rod, and knew exactly how to use it.

If you can find a used replacement, then thats probably the sensible option, but if its for a very rare bike and used parts are difficult/impossible, then a repair should be possible by a skilled TIG welder, using 4047 brazing rod.

[atpalmer]

Yeah welding aluminum makes it a lot more difficult, out of my reach for now. I do know someone with a TIG welder though.

[Pablo83]

I've got a welding project coming up next week. I haven't welded stick in a while. I'll be doing a horizontal vee groove weld on 1/4" wall pipe with E7018. What size stick and how many passes should this take?

[fxstbiluigi]

[QUOTE=pablo83;18282032]I've got a welding project coming up next week. I haven't welded stick in a while. I'll be doing a horizontal vee groove weld on 1/4" wall pipe with E7018. What size stick and how many passes should this take?[/QUOTE
What size pipe?

[Pablo83]

Originally Posted by fxstbiluigi

What size pipe?

About 6". The owner thinks it's 1/4 wall, but we won't know for sure until we cut into it.

[fxstbiluigi]

Originally Posted by pablo83

About 6". The owner thinks it's 1/4 wall, but we won't know for sure until we cut into it.

What is the pipe being used for? structural??????

[David R]

Originally Posted by pablo83

About 6". The owner thinks it's 1/4 wall, but we won't know for sure until we cut into it.

I would probably use 3/32 at 85 amps at least for the first pass.

[BobbySands]

First, if you're welding pipe and not tube, you're probably looking at schedule 40 (standard) pipe. That is .280 wall, so 1/4 is about right. But you won't change your amps either way for sched 80, you'll just make more passes at the same amps. As a matter of fact you might be able to run lower amps as sched 80 takes more passes and therfore will be very hot as you fill the weld.

Secondly, if you're making a 1G weld (pipe is horizontal with a grooved joint) you'll have a really good time welding 7018 for the root.

Remember that you can only uphill 7018. It's an all position rod, but you can only uphill it because it's a slow-freeze rod which won't penetrate worth a good piss downhilled.

I don't know what the hell this pipe is being used for, I don't know if there's going to be any pressure or high temp or anything, but the EASIEST thing to do would be to weld give yourself a 30 bevel, about a 1/8" land, and downhill the root with 6010. Then, once you have your root in, you can fill the rest with 7018 or continue to weld it out with 6010. 6010 is 60,000 PSI tensile strength, 7018 is 70,000 PSI. You aren't missing much by welding it out 6010 (5P, however they call it in your area) especially if this isn't a pressure weld.

If it IS a pressure weld. Do the following:

30-40 degree bevel, 1/8" gap, 1/8" land.

Run the root up-hill with 6010, 1/8" at 80 amps or so (I run about, crisp or high dig) and then cap it (up-hill again) with 3/32 7018, slightly higher amps- 90 or so.

You can run stringers or weave the cap.

I have never, ever used a pipe-welding procedure that called for 7018 all the way out. I hear rumours that there's one out there, but I've never seen it.

[KTM640Dakar]

Originally Posted by BobbySands

I don't know what the hell this pipe is being used for, I don't know if there's going to be any pressure or high temp or anything, but the EASIEST thing to do would be to weld give yourself a 30 bevel, about a 1/8" land, and downhill the root with 6010. Then, once you have your root in, you can fill the rest with 7018 or continue to weld it out with 6010. 6010 is 60,000 PSI tensile strength, 7018 is 70,000 PSI. You aren't missing much by welding it out 6010 (5P, however they call it in your area) especially if this isn't a pressure weld.
I have never, ever used a pipe-welding procedure that called for 7018 all the way out. I hear rumours that there's one out there, but I've never seen it.

Yes 6010 for the root and 7018 for the hot and cap passes.

Here is a good piece to info. http://www.lincolnelectric.com/asset...-d80/c2420.pdf

[Pablo83]

Quite a few years ago my father-in-law got tired of baseball bats taking out his mailbox so he had an armored one build from steel pipe, but he built it too low. We are raising it up about one foot. It is held up by two 6" pipes, with 3/8" this walls. The pipes are vertical. The welds will be horizontal. The truth is I could bugger weld the whole thing and it would be fine, but that's just not my style.

[Pablo83]

Originally Posted by KTM640Dakar

Yes 6010 for the root and 7018 for the hot and cap passes.

Here is a good piece to info. http://www.lincolnelectric.com/asset...-d80/c2420.pdf

excellent guide. Thanks.

[BobbySands]

Originally Posted by pablo83

excellent guide. Thanks.

That's much easier assuming you can get all the way around them without being two-blocked. You don't have a pressure weld so you can butt them up tight if you care to, and run 6010 all the way out. 1/8" 6010 (5p) at 80 amps for the root, then 3/32 7018 (lo-hy) same amps for the fill and cap.

Only no weaving the cap this time, just run simple stringers around it. Once you're just below flush, run a straight drag with your 7018 around it 2-3 times to cover the weld. It'll last a mail box forever.

[fxstbiluigi]

It's good to see that you finally realize that there are some of applications where X-ray quality is not necessary.

[ADV8]

Originally Posted by pablo83

.. mailbox.. It is held up by two 6" pipes, with 3/8" this walls. The pipes are vertical. The welds will be horizontal.

All you need to do is hard butt the joins.
Put a few tacks on each and back grind a few mm deep with a scarfing wheel,weld to the next tack,back grind and weld to the start of the last run.
Lay the back grinding over a little if you want.
Single pass and done.
Knock the cap flush if it matters.
You want to get fancy, have no undercut on the upper,no bead roll with a uniform con curve cap.

Its not a reactor coolant line.

[NitroAcres]

Pablo83, you may want to check out the laws on Mail Boxes...there are specs on them and the posts, I know I know, Everyone has cool posts and boxes....however...IF someone hits it and it isn't to spec. and they are injured..YOU are Liable.

Imagine a box that is made of 1/4" plate coming thru the windshield of a car at roadspeeds...I use to have to pick mine up out of the ditch a couple times a month as the little shits would hit it with a ball bat....finally the little shits either grew up or moved away.