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Old 06-16-2012, 06:42 AM   #2881
NitroAcres
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twin-shocker View Post
Does the waveform make quite as much difference if you are using DC rather than AC current?
On the Lincolns, that is how the pulse feature is labled...in Hz (actually it transulates to pulses per sec..in some wierd language).
On the Millers it is done correctly..:) Total Amps / PPS / On Time / Background Amps...
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Old 06-16-2012, 03:51 PM   #2882
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Originally Posted by Nailhead View Post
I welded up a fixture to support the fork/front axle while trailering the other day & noticed that what started out flat warped when welded. I tried welding from both ends of a bead, both ends of both sides of a bead, and I still get things are at least mildly banana-shaped.

Is there a way to make something with a welder that is FLAT? Obviously, there is, but I'm not seeing it.
if your talking about the bike stand you made for your ADV the best way i could see from the 2 sec i looked at the pics would be to tack all 4 corners of the uprights and see which way it pulled then start your welds on the opposite side.



with no upper support its still going to move a little bit and its very hard with that small amount of metal as the heat sink so to speak is very small and the heat effected zone is large with a mig welder.
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Old 06-16-2012, 10:03 PM   #2883
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmaxmike View Post
if your talking about the bike stand you made for your ADV the best way i could see from the 2 sec i looked at the pics would be to tack all 4 corners of the uprights and see which way it pulled then start your welds on the opposite side.



with no upper support its still going to move a little bit and its very hard with that small amount of metal as the heat sink so to speak is very small and the heat effected zone is large with a mig welder.
That makes sense. Thanks for the information.

It actually wasn't the uprights that presented the problem, although they did warp when I tacked them on one side & I just used a speed square to check square with the base, humored them into square, and tacked them on the opposite side.

The base, however ended up bowed mildly upward, so I guess I should have welded it on the underside also & ground those welds flat.

Here's the thread with the workpiece in question: http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...2#post18926072
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Old 06-16-2012, 11:05 PM   #2884
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If you mean the flat bar the box section uprights are welded to,all that was needed was open your vice up,set the box facing down and dolly the flat bar.
A test of your hammer skills is all.
The weld put heat into the flat,it skunk and pulled up,hammer it back down.
Just a matter of working it as you fabricate and weld.
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Old 06-16-2012, 11:20 PM   #2885
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Originally Posted by ADV8 View Post
If you mean the flat bar the box section uprights are welded to,all that was needed was open your vice up,set the box facing down and dolly the flat bar.
A test of your hammer skills is all.
The weld put heat into the flat,it skunk and pulled up,hammer it back down.
Just a matter of working it as you fabricate and weld.
I don't have a vise yet-- it was all done on the floor of my garage, or on a steel plate resting on my table saw. It needed to be done on short notice.

What's "dollying", anyway?
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Old 06-16-2012, 11:35 PM   #2886
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Hammering like a blacksmith, beat the warping straight/flat; like body and fender hammers.

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Old 06-17-2012, 12:05 AM   #2887
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nailhead View Post
I don't have a vise yet-- it was all done on the floor of my garage, or on a steel plate resting on my table saw. It needed to be done on short notice.

What's "dollying", anyway?
In that case the vice jaws would be the dolly and ease the post down
A 32 oz ball pein hammer would do the trick.
It not hammer and dolly in the true sense. (sheet metal)
It more like 16 lb sledge hammer and the apprentice on the other side holding the plate dolly.

A solid bench and vice is a good start.
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Old 06-17-2012, 07:25 AM   #2888
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twin-shocker View Post
Does the waveform make quite as much difference if you are using DC rather than AC current?
Yes, it's pretty huge actually. That nice bead you see is a result of the welder pulsing on/low just a bit more than once a second. The "off" phase is allowing the puddle to cool slightly and reducing the total heat put into the work piece, significantly actually. I'm moving the torch at a steady pace and keeping pretty constant pedal pressure so the "dimes" is the effect of the pulser.

It's like cheating really.

I posted some shots of my exhaust in here before but haven't made too much progress but perhaps I'll post some more.

Gregor
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Old 06-17-2012, 08:21 AM   #2889
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Originally Posted by sakurama View Post
Yes, it's pretty huge actually. That nice bead you see is a result of the welder pulsing on/low just a bit more than once a second. The "off" phase is allowing the puddle to cool slightly and reducing the total heat put into the work piece, significantly actually. I'm moving the torch at a steady pace and keeping pretty constant pedal pressure so the "dimes" is the effect of the pulser.

It's like cheating really.

I posted some shots of my exhaust in here before but haven't made too much progress but perhaps I'll post some more.

Gregor
That sounds very interesting............whats the fastest pulse setting you have on your machine?
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Old 06-17-2012, 08:55 AM   #2890
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Originally Posted by Twin-shocker View Post
That sounds very interesting............whats the fastest pulse setting you have on your machine?
The pulser will go into the hundreds of hz and there are applications for that sort of frequency but I don't know what they are yet. I'm still learning how to use it for what I'm doing and that is using the slower end of the pulsing spectrum.



Above on the right is adding .035 308L filler so you can see the bead is much tighter as I'm going slower feeding filler. On the left is fusion only and the travel speed is faster so the same pulse spreads out the "dimes".



This is a test fusion weld on my exhaust tube with the same settings. Here I'm working on torch angle (following the tube) and trying to be able to weld more than 1/2" at a time and then tying the welds together. If you saw my welds about 3-4 pages back this is a big improvement.



Getting the chance to sit with Sean of Vertigo Cycles and watch him encouraged me to spend more time working on pulsing fusion only welds and helped me make a big jump. This tube above is another test. Still testing and practicing...



I made this "X-crossover" and did it with and without filler. It was one of the harder things I've done but, little by little I'm getting better.



This is the right side all tacked up. Hopefully the next time I get in the shop I'll be able to finally put it all together and weld it up. I'm worried about distortion so I plan on adding a lot of tacks and then welding a little bit on each joint going back and forth from front to back and side to side to try to balance the heat and the inevitable distortion. Any advice here would be appreciated if you think that might not be the way to do it.

Gregor
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Old 06-17-2012, 09:58 AM   #2891
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I cant see that distortion is going to be much of a problem on tube. Its going to move a bit if you are not welding your pipe in a fixture of some kind, but if tube is thin then you should easily be able to tweak it a little when fitting to the bike so it fits perfectly.

Welds look excellent, and as I have been thinking of getting a TIG with pulse the results are very interesting to me.
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Old 06-17-2012, 10:52 AM   #2892
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Gregor,

Why would you not add wire to the welds?..and are you purging the tube when you weld it, what is it looking like inside?
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Old 06-17-2012, 11:40 AM   #2893
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I would guess the reason why manufacturers such as Akropovic also dont use filler wire, probably has something to do with this helping to reduce the chances of cracking on very thin material?
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Old 06-17-2012, 12:35 PM   #2894
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Well, I wanted to add filler but many people who knew better suggested otherwise. I had originally beveled the tube and was planning on adding filler as I thought that was the "right" way but I was instructed that for thin wall tubing in stainless (it's 16ga or .065 wall which is thick for exhaust but thin for tube) the correct way is to make perfectly flat joins with no bevel and to join the tubes with fusion only.

I thought perhaps that might not be as strong but after doing some tests it's obvious that it's more than strong enough, much easier and certainly looks better. I'm not purging for the tacking but I have a full purge setup for the final welding. I did purge for the crossover:





You can see it's smooth and there's no burn through or carbonized crap in there. I didn't want to put too much heat into this and melt the knife edge. Purging keeps the inside of the weld smooth and wetted out with no contamination. Overall better for flow too.

My thread below in my sig - Mission Creep - has a lot more photos of the fabrication but I just posted the more welding related here.

Gregor
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Old 06-17-2012, 05:53 PM   #2895
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Laugh

Beautiful work. I too have found stainless welds best with no filler. The biggest reason is it takes more heat when
I use filler. More heat = bad with stainless.

I still keep a pice of .030 stainless wire in my hand in case things get out of control.

Because I am not using filler, I make fitup best ever. Everything welds better with good fitup.

David
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