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Old 09-17-2012, 03:56 PM   #3076
KTM640Dakar OP
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Originally Posted by kirkster70 View Post
I've been doing some research on making a smoker out of a used 275 gal. fuel oil tank.

Seems that there are equal people saying it can be done safely, and people saying that it should never be done.

Some say the toxic fuel oil is permanently absorbed into the metal and it should never be used for cooking food, whereas others claim that it can be "burned out" by 2 or 3 high temp, long duration fires prior to cooking.

Is there any scientific proof to either side? Or are both sides based on opinion?

I'd love to make a smoker, but don't need any sick family or friends by using a used tank.

Oil tanks make great smokers. Just burn out the oil. The fuel turns to carbon. Hydrogen is bad for welds but not people. Unless you are flying a blump and it catches fire.

You know they pour fuel onto self starting charcoal brickets so that they burn with a lighter right? You wait until they burn off the fuel before you put your food on them.
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Old 09-17-2012, 05:15 PM   #3077
kirkster70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KTM640Dakar View Post
Oil tanks make great smokers. Just burn out the oil. The fuel turns to carbon. Hydrogen is bad for welds but not people. Unless you are flying a blump and it catches fire.

You know they pour fuel onto self starting charcoal brickets so that they burn with a lighter right? You wait until they burn off the fuel before you put your food on them.
Good info. Thanks for that.

Split camp at 2-2.

I guess I should have done a seperate poll. Sorry for clouding up the welding thread!
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Old 09-17-2012, 06:08 PM   #3078
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Originally Posted by KTM640Dakar View Post
Check your polarity. DC+ goes to the torch block, the ground clamp gets negative.

Make sure your spool tension is good. Your arc flaring up into the contact tip of your welding gun is a sign of the wire feeding poorly. Check to make sure that your drive roll size .025 matches your wire diameter. Check that your gun liner is not filled with crap. If it is, get a new gun liner. Get an .045 liner so you can use it for all sizes of wire diameter that that machine will use. You should be able to feed the wire into your gloved hand and it should still feed smoothly. Also check that your drive roll pressure is set with enough pressure to smoothly feed the wire.

If all else fails call Lincoln Electric at their help line 1-888-935-3877. Have the code number from the welder with you when you call. The code number is located on the serial number plate.


Good welding.
Thanks for all the tips. The PO had actually been using flux core wire, so he had the polarity reversed. I didn't catch that until I'd spent about an hour trying to make it work. Oddly enough though, getting it right didn't make a bit of difference.

I have two new liners that came with it. Looks like I'll be installing one if I get off work at a reasonable hour this week.
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Old 09-18-2012, 05:46 AM   #3079
mr2autoxr
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Hi,
I am fairly new to welding (2 years) and I have a MIG Lincoln 140c 120V unit I use in my garage on occasion. This past weekend I went to use it after it's been sitting for most of the summer and I ran into some problems. Keep in mind the welder is only about 2-3 years old.

What is happening is that I can't get the wire to feed out while I'm making my weld. I'm using .025 wire size and the appropriate sized wire rollers but it almost seems as though my gun liner is restricting the wire feeding through it.

Do the liners ever go bad? If I'm just pulling the trigger to advance the wire, the wire comes out fine. It's just when I go to weld where the wire stops feeding properly. I only get about 1 tach sized weld in and then the wire stops feeding.

I'm stumped and don't know if I can take the welder into my local supply store and see if they can fix it, or if I might just need to try a new liner?

Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Mike
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Old 09-18-2012, 05:51 AM   #3080
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I would suspect that the wire got rusty and then plugged the liner. Change the liner and contact tip for sure, you may be able to peel off enough wire to get down to layers that are not rusty if not also change the wire.
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Old 09-18-2012, 06:24 AM   #3081
David R
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First replace the contact tip. Try again. Find the manual and read how to adjust the roll tension. Too loose, no feed. Too tight and it puts waves in the wire that will not pass throu the tip and it will weld about an inch. With stops feeding,. You clear at the tip but the tight drive rolls put a new wave in the wire.

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Old 09-18-2012, 06:27 AM   #3082
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You may also need to increase the tension on your rollers a bit. There should be an adjustment knob.

Make your welding lead as straight as possible to reduce friction in the liner.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mr2autoxr View Post
Hi,
I am fairly new to welding (2 years) and I have a MIG Lincoln 140c 120V unit I use in my garage on occasion. This past weekend I went to use it after it's been sitting for most of the summer and I ran into some problems. Keep in mind the welder is only about 2-3 years old.

What is happening is that I can't get the wire to feed out while I'm making my weld. I'm using .025 wire size and the appropriate sized wire rollers but it almost seems as though my gun liner is restricting the wire feeding through it.

Do the liners ever go bad? If I'm just pulling the trigger to advance the wire, the wire comes out fine. It's just when I go to weld where the wire stops feeding properly. I only get about 1 tach sized weld in and then the wire stops feeding.

I'm stumped and don't know if I can take the welder into my local supply store and see if they can fix it, or if I might just need to try a new liner?

Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Mike
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Old 09-18-2012, 09:42 AM   #3083
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What should GTAW post flow be set at for 3/16" 5052 aluminum? Thanks in advance.

I think the rule of thumb is one second per every .01", but 19 seconds seems excessive to me.
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Old 09-18-2012, 11:10 AM   #3084
David R
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One second for every 10 amps. That can be excessive too. Post flow till the tungsten is cool enough to NOT oxidize. Any more is a waste.
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Old 09-18-2012, 07:06 PM   #3085
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Originally Posted by David R View Post
One second for every 10 amps. That can be excessive too. Post flow till the tungsten is cool enough to NOT oxidize. Any more is a waste.
Thanks. Yeah, I'm @ 200a, so that would be 20.

I have it set at 14sec, with good results, and I may even try 12 tomorrow.

Thanks again.
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Old 09-21-2012, 05:40 AM   #3086
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Thanks for the tips about getting my welder to feed the wire properly. I have replaced the tip with a new one with no luck. I've also played with the wire tension as well and that didn't seem to help. I could tell when it was too loose or tight, and in the proper range still no luck.

You guys might be right about a slight coating on the wire or something as it sits in my unheated/air conditioned garaged. Humidity could have affected it. Doesn't look rusty, but you never know. I'll try to take some wire off and try to see if that works.

Is there anything you can spray into the liner to help clean it? That won't affect the welds?
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Old 09-21-2012, 05:47 AM   #3087
David R
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Replace the liner. The machine is no good if it will not feed.

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Old 09-22-2012, 06:13 PM   #3088
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Originally Posted by David R View Post
One second for every 10 amps. That can be excessive too. Post flow till the tungsten is cool enough to NOT oxidize. Any more is a waste.
Yes. And you should flow gas as long as there is liquid weld metal. But mostly too keep air O2 off of the tungsten electrode while it is hot. Like Dave said you want to keep the electrode from oxidizing. Usually the bigger the diameter and higher the current, the longer the postflow.
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Old 09-22-2012, 11:02 PM   #3089
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KTM640Dakar View Post
Yes. And you should flow gas as long as there is liquid weld metal. But mostly too keep air O2 off of the tungsten electrode while it is hot. Like Dave said you want to keep the electrode from oxidizing. Usually the bigger the diameter and higher the current, the longer the postflow.
What's the symptom of an oxidized tungsten ?

David
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Old 09-22-2012, 11:42 PM   #3090
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