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Old 09-23-2012, 03:01 AM   #3091
Twin-shocker
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Originally Posted by kirkster70 View Post
Thanks. Yeah, I'm @ 200a, so that would be 20.

I have it set at 14sec, with good results, and I may even try 12 tomorrow.

Thanks again.
Those settings mean you are wasting a fair amount of gas...........if you have a watercooled torch, then cut time by half. Also a very good idea to use gas saver front end torch parts, as this will help to save even more gas.
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Old 09-23-2012, 03:32 AM   #3092
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Originally Posted by djborden View Post
What's the symptom of an oxidized tungsten ?

David
The electrode turns black. Ya can't miss it. No big loss, just clean it up, re sharpen and resume welding. I use a belt sander and cordless drill. I then put a fine finish on the point with a tungsten sharpener.
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Old 09-23-2012, 04:47 AM   #3093
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OK welding guru's, here's my dumb-arse question for the week.

I currently have a 200A MIG (I use it gasless mostly, outside for 90% of the time), I can weld OK with the thing, but I'm not a welder (if that makes sense!). Used mostly for making exhaust systems, and light 3mm or 4mm chassis stuff.

I'm gettting close to having a shed (woo!hoo!), so can soon do all this stuff indoors, but I also would like something that will weld up aluminium (for bike brackets) and thin plate (for my VW Bug project), so I thought I'd get a TIG and practise, same as before with the MIG, and my 10 yr old MIG is getting long in the tooth.

Also, the actual TIG welding itself. I can use a MIG fairly well (without having a ticket and 20 yrs on the job of course), I can use stick too, and I'm not sure if it's relevant, but but my trade is in electronics, and I have held the highest soldering standard available for nearly 30 years (are the processes involved as similar as they look?). Will adapting be all that difficult?

I've seen 200A Inverter TIG/MMA (whatever that is......)/cutters for about $500 Oz and they look attractive. Will this size machine do the job I ask of it?

And yes, I realise a $2000 machine would do it better, but it's hard to justify the expense for what is really a hobby. A basic machine that will do the job is all I'm after, no frills. Is 200A the size I would need? 250A? 180A?

Thanks for any answers.
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Old 09-23-2012, 05:03 AM   #3094
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Originally Posted by David R View Post
The electrode turns black. Ya can't miss it. No big loss, just clean it up, re sharpen and resume welding. I use a belt sander and cordless drill. I then put a fine finish on the point with a tungsten sharpener.
Don't forget a mask being that $hit isn't exactly loaded with vitamins.
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Old 09-23-2012, 06:33 AM   #3095
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Originally Posted by MODNROD View Post
OK welding guru's, here's my dumb-arse question for the week.

I currently have a 200A MIG (I use it gasless mostly, outside for 90% of the time), I can weld OK with the thing, but I'm not a welder (if that makes sense!). Used mostly for making exhaust systems, and light 3mm or 4mm chassis stuff.

I'm gettting close to having a shed (woo!hoo!), so can soon do all this stuff indoors, but I also would like something that will weld up aluminium (for bike brackets) and thin plate (for my VW Bug project), so I thought I'd get a TIG and practise, same as before with the MIG, and my 10 yr old MIG is getting long in the tooth.

Also, the actual TIG welding itself. I can use a MIG fairly well (without having a ticket and 20 yrs on the job of course), I can use stick too, and I'm not sure if it's relevant, but but my trade is in electronics, and I have held the highest soldering standard available for nearly 30 years (are the processes involved as similar as they look?). Will adapting be all that difficult?

I've seen 200A Inverter TIG/MMA (whatever that is......)/cutters for about $500 Oz and they look attractive. Will this size machine do the job I ask of it?

And yes, I realise a $2000 machine would do it better, but it's hard to justify the expense for what is really a hobby. A basic machine that will do the job is all I'm after, no frills. Is 200A the size I would need? 250A? 180A?

Thanks for any answers.

A used quality TIG set would be a better idea than new Chinese, unless you are only going to be using it very rarely. If you can gas weld, then TIG will come pretty easily, but any form of welding experience should help you. 200A set will be fine for most things, and if you can something with water cooled torch is a good choice.
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Old 09-23-2012, 06:58 AM   #3096
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For aluminum you need AC TIG
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Old 09-23-2012, 07:40 AM   #3097
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A Question about a Stupid mistake...

So I recently just went through my first 10lb roll of .035 wire - Took about 3 years to give you the idea of the amount of welding I do. All using shielding gas on a Lincoln 175. No problem, went to Lowes, and they had a 2lb roll of .030 wire. Bought it, came back, and decided to take out the instructions (gasp) to make sure that the liner was the same for .030 and .035 (which it is). While I was hooking things back up, I realized that my polarity was still hooked up for the gass-less, flux-core type of welding. Apparently, I've been using this since I've gotten it with the wrong polarity on the tip vs. ground. Once I set everything back up, I continued to weld and it felt and sounded better. I only had another 5 minutes worth before that day's project was finished though. Some of the difference could have been the smaller wire size, but not all of it. The "fizzing" sound was definitely more steady and constant.

My question is, what does using the polarity backwards do? I, like most hobby-ist welders, wouldn't ever call my self a welder, but my welds look alright, I get good penetration, and nothings ever come apart. I haven't had much of a chance to use the new settings, but don't quite understand why the difference between flux core and gas shielded. Can anyone explain it to me?

Thanks,
Don

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Old 09-23-2012, 10:35 PM   #3098
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Originally Posted by David R View Post
The electrode turns black. Ya can't miss it. No big loss, just clean it up, re sharpen and resume welding. I use a belt sander and cordless drill. I then put a fine finish on the point with a tungsten sharpener.
Thanks.. Can you tell what will happen welding with an oxidized tungsten? (puddle or arc if anything)

David
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Old 09-24-2012, 04:37 AM   #3099
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Originally Posted by djborden View Post
Thanks.. Can you tell what will happen welding with an oxidized tungsten? (puddle or arc if anything)

David
You will contaminate your weld and introduce porosity, making the weld weak and ugly. The arc will even turn a different color.
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Old 09-24-2012, 04:40 AM   #3100
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Originally Posted by Twin-shocker View Post
Those settings mean you are wasting a fair amount of gas...........if you have a watercooled torch, then cut time by half. Also a very good idea to use gas saver front end torch parts, as this will help to save even more gas.
Yeah, I blew through a 125cf tank pretty quickly. I think I may even be able to drop down to 8 sec. I have an air-cooled torch for now, so I know I need to use more gas than a water-cooled setup.

I'll have to look into gas saver parts. Thanks for the info.

EDIT - just found the gas saver pyrex cups. Do I want standard or large diameter? I'm running a WP-17 torch. I'm not really sure of how they save gas? Thanks again in advance...

kirkster70 screwed with this post 09-24-2012 at 05:37 AM
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Old 09-24-2012, 01:04 PM   #3101
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CFH Count more than post flow. You need enough flow to keep porosity out of your welds on carbon steel. Depending on gas cone size, amps, and other conditions. 8 to 20 CFH.
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Old 09-26-2012, 10:25 PM   #3102
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Originally Posted by kirkster70 View Post
You will contaminate your weld and introduce porosity, making the weld weak and ugly. The arc will even turn a different color.
Thanks, appreciate the info.

David
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Old 09-27-2012, 10:46 AM   #3103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elmo_4_vt View Post
A Question about a Stupid mistake...

So I recently just went through my first 10lb roll of .035 wire - Took about 3 years to give you the idea of the amount of welding I do. All using shielding gas on a Lincoln 175. No problem, went to Lowes, and they had a 2lb roll of .030 wire. Bought it, came back, and decided to take out the instructions (gasp) to make sure that the liner was the same for .030 and .035 (which it is). While I was hooking things back up, I realized that my polarity was still hooked up for the gass-less, flux-core type of welding. Apparently, I've been using this since I've gotten it with the wrong polarity on the tip vs. ground. Once I set everything back up, I continued to weld and it felt and sounded better. I only had another 5 minutes worth before that day's project was finished though. Some of the difference could have been the smaller wire size, but not all of it. The "fizzing" sound was definitely more steady and constant.

My question is, what does using the polarity backwards do? I, like most hobby-ist welders, wouldn't ever call my self a welder, but my welds look alright, I get good penetration, and nothings ever come apart. I haven't had much of a chance to use the new settings, but don't quite understand why the difference between flux core and gas shielded. Can anyone explain it to me?

Thanks,
Don

-
Solid wire w/ gas use DC+
cored wire w/o gas use DC-

Polarity always refers to the electrodes polarity ( the cable attached to the wire feeder)

Using the wrong polarity will make your arc erratic. Most of the heat is on the positive side of the DC arc. So hollow cored wire does not need to be melted as much as solid wire so you run DC- to it and you get good penetration into your plate.

Always read the sticker on the inside door of your Lincoln welder. It has all the setup information that you need.
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Old 10-01-2012, 03:29 PM   #3104
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What grit & type of grinding stone do I need for sharpening tungstens? Got a TIG machine on it's way to the workshop, I suspect a few electrodes are going to be seriously harmed in the process of us learning to use it so I want to get a dedicated wheel for the 6" bench grinder.

Cheers
Clint
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Old 10-01-2012, 04:28 PM   #3105
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What grit & type of grinding stone do I need for sharpening tungstens? Got a TIG machine on it's way to the workshop, I suspect a few electrodes are going to be seriously harmed in the process of us learning to use it so I want to get a dedicated wheel for the 6" bench grinder.

Cheers
Clint
I got a double sided Ryobi in my small shop..and the "Fine" side is Tungsten sharpening only...in my big shop I have a single dedicated grinder uses a 6" "Fine" wheel..from McMaster Carr.
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