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Old 10-14-2012, 08:30 PM   #3136
fxstbiluigi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DiabloADV View Post
Dry grass hillsides in all directions. Nobody has that gear around here.

Not to be too cheap...but what's the cheapest rig to get that piece hot enough to bend without folding?
A rose bud (oxy-acct) has a lot of BTUs but it is concentrated in a small area. Not practicle for heating two different areas that far apart in order to sraighten the rack. The bent tubing will need to be cherry red to straighten with out colapsing, Both pieces, With a rose bud one will cool while the other is being heated, a weed burner puts out a lot more BTUs in a larger area and it should be possible to keep one side red hot while heating the other side. Alternate sides during the heatig process and try to keep both sides at about the same temp.

Equipment rental stores in the area should be able to furnish the weed burner.
ps: If you have access to two sets of oxy/acct. tanks and two rose buds that should work but don't try to run two rose buds on one set of tanks and NEVER get into the RED zone on an acct. regulator.
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fxstbiluigi screwed with this post 10-14-2012 at 08:45 PM
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Old 10-15-2012, 08:59 AM   #3137
Twin-shocker
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As the rack tubing is likely to be quite thin, you should be able to heat and bend it using a butane or propane blow lamp.
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Old 10-15-2012, 10:31 AM   #3138
victor441
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Originally Posted by DiabloADV View Post
Some advice on how to change this rack on the back of my subframe. I need that upturned bit made flat. Can I just cut it off, then bend a new piece and butt-weld it on? My woodworking background says, no way, butt joints are bad. But will it work with welding? Or should I use an insert to strengthen it...? Advise me!
heating and bending it would be tricky since you would need to do both sides at once and need a LOT of heat. Since you have a MIG I'd cut the end off, cut the bend out, then put inserts that fit well in the joints (with a small gap between the pieces) and weld it all back together....if you do it right the joint will be strong and wont look too bad, I shortened a kickstand this way recently and it works fine. There is something similar at http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/...bing-tips.html
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Old 10-16-2012, 12:46 AM   #3139
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That rack would be very easy to bend straight, using a propane torch, and shouldn't take more than about 20 minutes to do. If there are any wrinkles in the bend area (unlikely), then simply MIG weld over them, and linish to a perfect finish.
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Old 10-16-2012, 09:17 PM   #3140
kirkster70
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I'm getting ready to fabricate a winch bumper out of a combination of 6061-T6 and 5052 aluminum plate. 6061 for framing, 5052 for cosmetics.

Would 4043 or 5356 be a better filler rod for this application?

I've read that 4043 is less prone to cold cracking on 6061, but 5356 has better strength and ductility than 4043. It won't be subjected to constant temps above 150F, which is not good for 5356. It also won't be anodized, so color match isn't an issue.

Sounds like either would be fine as the filler is stronger than the HAZ of each joint. Just not sure on what's best for a deer-smashing bumper application. 5356 maybe since shear strength would be the biggest issue?

Thanks in advance.

kirkster70 screwed with this post 10-16-2012 at 09:29 PM
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Old 10-16-2012, 09:22 PM   #3141
kirkster70
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Originally Posted by sakurama View Post
Well I posted months ago looking for tips as I was tackling building my own exhaust. I finally finished so I figured I'd post back some photos. I got some good advice here and elsewhere and certainly learned a lot in the process of making it. I feel very comfortable with stainless now. Anyway, here's a couple of shots of the final product.







I like that last one as it shows the first header flange I cooked which prompted me to go on a mission to learn how to weld stainless better and then on the right is the last header flange I made which I think sums up my learning curve.





There's more photos in my build thread but I feel like the bike is "finished" for the moment. My fancy pants X pipe didn't work as well as my H pipe (H = 1hp gain) so I'll have to remake that as the H was only done as a test. Still, I learned a lot in making the whole thing and the bike runs great making some kick ass torque. Quite happy.

Gregor
Nice work!
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Old 10-17-2012, 03:41 AM   #3142
David R
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kirkster70 View Post
I'm getting ready to fabricate a winch bumper out of a combination of 6061-T6 and 5052 aluminum plate. 6061 for framing, 5052 for cosmetics.

Would 4043 or 5356 be a better filler rod for this application?

I've read that 4043 is less prone to cold cracking on 6061, but 5356 has better strength and ductility than 4043. It won't be subjected to constant temps above 150F, which is not good for 5356. It also won't be anodized, so color match isn't an issue.

Sounds like either would be fine 4 the filler is stronger than the HAZ of each joint. Just not sure on what's best for a deer-smashing bumper application. 5356 maybe since shear strength would be the biggest issue?

Thanks in advance.
I don't think it would matter much, The 4043 flows better, so it is what I would use. Joint design and bumper design will have more to do with strength than filler.

David
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Old 10-18-2012, 02:57 AM   #3143
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You can use 4043 filler for most aluminum welding, and it means less chance of weld cracks on some jobs.
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Old 10-18-2012, 03:21 PM   #3144
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exactly. wont matter either way, both are aws d1.1 (basic structural welding) approved for welding 6010 and 5052 together. pick 4043. itll just make life easier for you.
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Old 10-18-2012, 07:35 PM   #3145
kirkster70
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Excellent info. Thanks, guys! 4043 it is. The plate showed up today. Should start fab on Saturday.
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Old 10-18-2012, 08:27 PM   #3146
DiabloADV
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I got a 110v Hobart 140 used. I've got it pretty much figured out and ready to start learning. One thing I can't figure out is how to set the gas flow. My gauge is psi not cfh. What psi is 20cfh?
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Old 10-18-2012, 09:05 PM   #3147
Toysrme
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its not. that is a PRESSURE regulator
what you need is a FLOW regulator (CFH / LPM)
to actually work out the flow, we'd have to calculate the gas density, line pressure, line diameter and temperature. i love you, but not that much. <3


props for being on the money with your gas flow rate. you normally are around 20-21cfh / 10lpm
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Old 10-18-2012, 09:47 PM   #3148
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Well I know it's a pressure reg. I was just wondering if someone knew from experience what psi I could set it to and be in the ballpark.
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Old 10-19-2012, 01:24 AM   #3149
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Idk you want a WAG? Less than 10psi but be warned again you should buy a legit flow regulator, not be messing with pressure regulators........................
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Old 10-19-2012, 04:46 AM   #3150
David R
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Just weld and have some one slowly turn it down until you get porosity. Back up a little.

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