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Old 10-19-2012, 07:20 AM   #3151
DiabloADV
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I guess I should buy a flow gauge. Damn...thought I was done spending.
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Old 10-19-2012, 08:37 AM   #3152
RAGBrian
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I have the same issue...I have the dual gauge PSI regulator with my Lincoln HD-3200 Weldpak, not a flow meter.

Some searching online has shown that there are flow meters at reasonable prices (some less than $50.00 that attach to the tank). Also saw a couple of the type that you measure the flow at the nozzle and can set the flow rate with those. They sell for under $15.00. Linky

I have read more than once the "turn it down until it gets porous, then crank it back up a bit" advice.

I have used shielded wire over the years and now want to setup the gas bottle and regulator on my kit and try some GMAW. This thread has been helpful on getting me back on track. Plan to practice some beads today or this weekend. I haven't done any welding in a while, and it shows! .
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Old 10-19-2012, 10:41 AM   #3153
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The best thing you could ever do is hook up gas to the weld packs.
There are certified processes of doing everything, but to my knowledge there has NEVER been a certified process for flux-core wire that wasnt spray-transfer. All the 110v and most of the 110/220 and small 220 machines just dont have the amperage to get out of short-ciruit mode. That means youre burying flux into the weld and hoping it rises to the top!

Now it doesnt matter for Joe Backyard rearmoring his mower deck, but imo even joe backyard should strive to eventually be able to pass some basic code like d1.1 structural welding. (as in not so amazing you need to be able to pass ultrasonic, x-ray testable welds for pressure vessels.)
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Old 10-22-2012, 01:26 PM   #3154
DiabloADV
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My gas regulator has psi on the outflow side, and I need cfh. The welding shop has replacement cfh gauges for only $12. Can I unscrew the psi gauge and screw in the cfh? Or do I need a whole new regulator? The guy at the shop wasn't sure.

Thanks...

edit...pic of my regulator and the replacement cfh gauge...

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1970 R60/5

'91 Bill Holland Steel w/Dura Ace[/SIZE]
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Old 10-23-2012, 07:18 AM   #3155
DiabloADV
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Originally Posted by DiabloADV View Post
My gas regulator has psi on the outflow side, and I need cfh. The welding shop has replacement cfh gauges for only $12. Can I unscrew the psi gauge and screw in the cfh? Or do I need a whole new regulator? The guy at the shop wasn't sure.

Thanks...
Bump...
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1970 R60/5

'91 Bill Holland Steel w/Dura Ace[/SIZE]
'01 Z3 3.0 Coupe. The Clownshoe.
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Old 10-23-2012, 07:38 AM   #3156
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If you want to add a flow meter to that regulator it is has to be a separate gauge you install on the output between the regulator and the hose. That extra gauge shown in the photo would need to be attached to some sort of flow restrictor and be measuring the pressure drop across it. Flow gauges I am familiar with usually have a tapered transparent vertical tube with a ball in it. The more gas flowing through it the higher the flow of gas pushes up the ball.

Pressure and flow are different measurements like voltage and current. Pressure is how hard the gas is pushing against the inner surface of the hose, and flow is how much volume is flowing through the hose.
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Old 10-23-2012, 07:42 AM   #3157
DiabloADV
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I know those things...still, every welding company sells a regulator that has a flow gauge on the output side, instead of a pressure gauge. I know how those flow gauges work...they are actually pressure regulators that estimate flow by measuring pressure on two sides of a calibrated orifice. It's a flow *estimate* and it's good enough for home garage MIG welding.

My question is whether I can install this flow-estimating gauge on my existing regulator.
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1974 R90/6 w/1050 kit. Motor only. Seeking a frame.
1970 R60/5

'91 Bill Holland Steel w/Dura Ace[/SIZE]
'01 Z3 3.0 Coupe. The Clownshoe.
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Old 10-23-2012, 07:44 AM   #3158
David R
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Your regulator is a Nitrogen regulator. I don't think the cfh gauge will work. flow is measured at a certain pressure.

I still would weld and keep turning it down until you get porosity then up a little.

David
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Old 10-23-2012, 08:29 AM   #3159
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According to a couple regulator makers' websites, nitrogen and argon use the same regulator. This one is the Nitrogen Series(TM) inert gas model. Oddly, they make a Nitrogen Series regulator for O2 and other gases.

I'm going to install this gauge and try it out.
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1974 R90/6 w/1050 kit. Motor only. Seeking a frame.
1970 R60/5

'91 Bill Holland Steel w/Dura Ace[/SIZE]
'01 Z3 3.0 Coupe. The Clownshoe.
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Old 10-23-2012, 08:35 AM   #3160
GSWayne
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DiabloADV View Post
I know those things...still, every welding company sells a regulator that has a flow gauge on the output side, instead of a pressure gauge. I know how those flow gauges work...they are actually pressure regulators that estimate flow by measuring pressure on two sides of a calibrated orifice. It's a flow *estimate* and it's good enough for home garage MIG welding.

My question is whether I can install this flow-estimating gauge on my existing regulator.
I still don't think it will work because the port with the pressure gauge is set up to measure the output pressure, it is not measuring the drop across an orifice.
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Old 10-25-2012, 08:08 PM   #3161
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Originally Posted by kirkster70 View Post
I'm getting ready to fabricate a winch bumper out of a combination of 6061-T6 and 5052 aluminum plate. 6061 for framing, 5052 for cosmetics.

Would 4043 or 5356 be a better filler rod for this application?

I've read that 4043 is less prone to cold cracking on 6061, but 5356 has better strength and ductility than 4043. It won't be subjected to constant temps above 150F, which is not good for 5356. It also won't be anodized, so color match isn't an issue.

Sounds like either would be fine as the filler is stronger than the HAZ of each joint. Just not sure on what's best for a deer-smashing bumper application. 5356 maybe since shear strength would be the biggest issue?

Thanks in advance.
5356 has a higher tensile strength than 4043.

Use 5356.
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Old 10-25-2012, 08:09 PM   #3162
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Originally Posted by sakurama View Post
Well I posted months ago looking for tips as I was tackling building my own exhaust. I finally finished so I figured I'd post back some photos. I got some good advice here and elsewhere and certainly learned a lot in the process of making it. I feel very comfortable with stainless now. Anyway, here's a couple of shots of the final product.







I like that last one as it shows the first header flange I cooked which prompted me to go on a mission to learn how to weld stainless better and then on the right is the last header flange I made which I think sums up my learning curve.





There's more photos in my build thread but I feel like the bike is "finished" for the moment. My fancy pants X pipe didn't work as well as my H pipe (H = 1hp gain) so I'll have to remake that as the H was only done as a test. Still, I learned a lot in making the whole thing and the bike runs great making some kick ass torque. Quite happy.

Gregor

Nice job!
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Old 10-26-2012, 09:39 PM   #3163
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Nice job!
No shit... Nice work man!
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Old 11-01-2012, 12:54 AM   #3164
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This thread is simply AWESOME.....thank you all you have knowledge in this area and willing to share it with those unfamiliar such as myself.

Yet another reason why ADV rider forum kicks A$$!!
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Old 11-02-2012, 01:56 PM   #3165
LexLeroy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DiabloADV View Post
I know those things...still, every welding company sells a regulator that has a flow gauge on the output side, instead of a pressure gauge. I know how those flow gauges work...they are actually pressure regulators that estimate flow by measuring pressure on two sides of a calibrated orifice. It's a flow *estimate* and it's good enough for home garage MIG welding.

My question is whether I can install this flow-estimating gauge on my existing regulator.
I don't know squat about MIG or TIG welding - just bought my first TIG outfit and haven't yet struck an arc. Here's a pic, however, of the output-side gauge of the Victor AF210-580 flow meter that came with the welder.



Note that it's marked with an orifice size, in this case .032 of an inch. I did some reading after I opened the box and found a dual-gauge regulator rather than the expected floating-ball type of flow meter. Seems that the orifice size is paired with gas type to give a certain flow at a given pressure. Where's the orifice? With this regulator it appears to be in the outlet fitting, but your's might be different.

David R's advice sounds pretty good to me - fiddle with it until you get decent welds and call it a day.

But again, take what I'm saying with a grain of salt 'cause I don't even rate as a n00b at this point.
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