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Old 12-27-2012, 04:28 AM   #3211
warewolf
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Gotta subscribe to this thread so I don't lose it!

Did my first welding the other day. Spent three hours watching youtube instructional vids amidst another three hours of practising.
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KTM LC4 640 Question? Check here first --> KTM LC4 (640) Index Thread
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Old 12-28-2012, 09:50 PM   #3212
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I'm futzing my way through fabricating a few parts for my sidecar project and I have a question for the masses.

When butt welding two 3/4" steel rods end to end, do you grind a flat taper on each end to be welded? Or would you grind a conical taper ?

I can see the ease of welding into a flat tapered void versus a conical. Just pondering the difference.

Megadeus screwed with this post 12-28-2012 at 10:20 PM
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Old 12-29-2012, 03:51 AM   #3213
David R
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Megadeus View Post
I'm futzing my way through fabricating a few parts for my sidecar project and I have a question for the masses.

When butt welding two 3/4" steel rods end to end, do you grind a flat taper on each end to be welded? Or would you grind a conical taper ?

I can see the ease of welding into a flat tapered void versus a conical. Just pondering the difference.
Chisel point is easier. after the first weld double check straight. When done and its still hot, check for straight again.

David
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Old 12-29-2012, 03:57 AM   #3214
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Originally Posted by ridepjride View Post
Bolt backed out of the rear sprocket and gouged the swingarm. For a proper repair, can this be built up by welding?

I'm far from an experienced welder but I did this for a buddy of mine on a DRZ






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Old 12-29-2012, 11:22 PM   #3215
clintnz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by warewolf View Post
Gotta subscribe to this thread so I don't lose it!

Did my first welding the other day. Spent three hours watching youtube instructional vids amidst another three hours of practising.
The Kiwi summer weather has been pretty good for sheltering in the shed & abusing some metal aye? What sort of machine have you got?

I've just been busy TIGging together some pannier racks for Nic's XT, tube is a bit fiddly but it's coming out ok for a learner. Not super pretty but I couldn't break my test welds so I must be doing something right.



This is 5/8 dia .065 wall 4130, the larger dia bits are just black pipe.



Lots to work on in terms of technique I know, but for my first serious tube welding project I'm fairly happy with 'strong & looks ok from a distance'

Cheers
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Old 12-30-2012, 06:33 AM   #3216
ridepjride
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Originally Posted by sailah View Post
I'm far from an experienced welder but I did this for a buddy of mine on a DRZ

nice work

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Old 12-30-2012, 03:26 PM   #3217
mikejohn
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Hoping to get a house with a garage this summer, Which Tig welder is good for home use, looking to weld aluminum , 4130 steet and so on, mostly bike related stuff, I'll get a stick welder for mild steel
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Old 12-30-2012, 04:17 PM   #3218
David R
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Laugh

To tig aluminum you need AC. Mild steel and alloys need DC. Most any DC welder will tig.

get as big as you can afford. :)

David
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Old 12-31-2012, 01:17 AM   #3219
warewolf
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Originally Posted by clintnz View Post
The Kiwi summer weather has been pretty good for sheltering in the shed & abusing some metal aye? What sort of machine have you got?
I did it quite a few weeks ago, I needed to repair my trailer once I got the 200 fixed in order to take it out. If I had a spare minute I'd be happier riding not sheltering no matter the weather. Here it's been quite hot and extended dry so some forests are closed due to drought-induced fire risk.

Borrowed innathyzit's arc welder to start, but both he and Topo also offered Tig. I think I need Topo's fancy helmet or a different glass, as I just couldn't see where I was aiming to start. Main project next year is to rebuild my trailer, but I do have a couple of little jobs to do on the 640, such as pannier rails like yours.
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KTM LC4 640 Question? Check here first --> KTM LC4 (640) Index Thread
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve McQueen
All racers I know aren't in it for the money. They race because it's something inside of them... They're not courting death. They're courting being alive.
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Old 12-31-2012, 01:47 AM   #3220
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Originally Posted by mikejohn View Post
Hoping to get a house with a garage this summer, Which Tig welder is good for home use, looking to weld aluminum , 4130 steet and so on, mostly bike related stuff, I'll get a stick welder for mild steel
Unless you have a 3phase power supply, its probably better to be looking at an inverter type 240v AC/DC set. I would suggest 200 amp if you want to work with aluminum, and while a Chinese set will probably be fine for occasional use, its worth paying more for a name brand if you are looking at anything other than occasional use. Remember you will also need argon gas, and that using CK "gas saver" front end torch parts, will mean you use quite a lot less gas.
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Old 12-31-2012, 06:04 AM   #3221
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikejohn View Post
Hoping to get a house with a garage this summer, Which Tig welder is good for home use, looking to weld aluminum , 4130 steet and so on, mostly bike related stuff, I'll get a stick welder for mild steel
As stated above, the chinese stuff is ok for occasional use. Miller, Lincoln and ESAB are supported well here in the US and have serviceability and reputation behind them. Also check our Thermal Arc. I have an Arcmaster 185 Inverter that has arc property controls as good as the Miller inverter and was about half the price. The thermal arcs are imported. Mine is Japanese but I think they are made in china now (the exception for chinese machines since they still have a great rep for reliability). The Thermal Arcs are used in a lot of industrial machine controlled welding processes.
Also as stated above, buy the biggest most featured machine you can justify. Used Miller Synchrowave 250 is a great machine for everything, although large and heavy and you need a 60 amp 220v circuit.
The inverter machines are also very efficient. The big transformers like the synchrowave can be pricey to run if you weld a lot.
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Old 12-31-2012, 08:39 AM   #3222
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To tig aluminum you need AC.
Actually welding Aluminum with DC is more common than many realize. Space-X is building rockets & space craft with aluminum that has been DC Tig welded. Of course they also do some really fancy stuff like friction-stir welding
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Old 12-31-2012, 09:05 AM   #3223
mikejohn
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Originally Posted by Twin-shocker View Post
Unless you have a 3phase power supply, its probably better to be looking at an inverter type 240v AC/DC set. I would suggest 200 amp if you want to work with aluminum, and while a Chinese set will probably be fine for occasional use, its worth paying more for a name brand if you are looking at anything other than occasional use. Remember you will also need argon gas, and that using CK "gas saver" front end torch parts, will mean you use quite a lot less gas.
I plan to save and get the good stuff, right now I do my welding where I work ( I'm a machinist). Just hoping to set up a small, very small side business, I want to add a LeBlonde lathe and Sharp/Brigdeport mill
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Old 01-01-2013, 07:24 AM   #3224
kirkster70
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I have a pretty interesting question that my brother-in-law posed to me last night...

He is a gun collector and restores old guns that previous owners have drilled for scopes, etc.

On late 1800 to early 1900 Winchester sporting arms, he has had weldors in his area fill the non-factory holes with TIG. Then he takes the factory blueing down to bare metal and then re-blues the entire gun. The repair cannot be seen in bare metal, but is very evident after blueing. Plus, he says that the filled hole is a harder metal than the proof steel of the rest of the gun.

So, anyone run across this? What would be a proper TIG filler to take the blueing like the rest of the metal?
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Old 01-01-2013, 09:04 AM   #3225
larryboy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David R View Post
Edit:
I have posted pictures of broken bolts. This one was a little tougher.

88 Suzuki 600 broken exhaust bolt. I welded a few nuts to it with the SP-100 one of the first Lincoln 110 Volt Mig welders.

No joy, they kept twisting off.

Today we attached the front wheel to the fork lift and picked the bike up. I used a tig torch and some 316 stainless filler.


David

Next time use extracting rod, you have a tig, assuming it can do stick too.

Look for X-Tractalloy rod, I use it all the time and the stuff is like pure voodoo magik.
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