Ask your WELDING questions here.

[JAFO]

Anything worth that much money that doesn't have onboard overcurrent protection doesn't belong in your shop, period.

Sent from my MB886 using Xparent Green Tapatalk 2

[David R]

Read the manual. It will have a breaker size listed.

Sent from the phone in my shoe. Maxwell Smart.

[GordonH]

Originally Posted by David R

Read the manual. It will have a breaker size listed.

Sent from the phone in my shoe. Maxwell Smart.

I'm trying to get the outlet done before I buy a unit. Do you know of any websites that have the manuals? My bing-fu is lacking.

Gordon

[ER70S-2]

Originally Posted by GordonH

I don't have a problem with running the 50a. wire, I'm more concerned with protecting the welding unit itself. If it's only drawing 20 or so amps, in the event of a problem internally where it is pulling more than that, I want the breaker either on the unit if it has one, or the one in the panel to trip before damage is done to the unit itself.

Gordon

Originally Posted by JAFO

Anything worth that much money that doesn't have onboard overcurrent protection doesn't belong in your shop, period.

Sent from my MB886 using Xparent Green Tapatalk 2

Gordon:
You're looking at this wrong. My 60 watt table lamp runs fine even though it's plugged into a 20 amp outlet. Anything you plug in is only using the amps it needs. All that matters is getting the 120/240 correct. Run the circuit with enough amps to run any welder so you can upgrade later if you choose.

[GordonH]

Originally Posted by ER70S-2

Gordon:
You're looking at this wrong. My 60 watt table lamp runs fine even though it's plugged into a 20 amp outlet. Anything you plug in is only using the amps it needs. All that matters is getting the 120/240 correct. Run the circuit with enough amps to run any welder so you can upgrade later if you choose.

I've seen the results of equipment that was over fused. Not very pretty and really dangerous. My query is to why the manufacturer states a 20a. input and yet puts a 50a cord on it. I've been searching the NEC and I'm coming closer to an understanding as to why they do this. Duty cycle, max input amps and other magic. If I find an answer and can explain it without taking a night class in EE I'll put it up. Suffice to say I'll install the feed to the manufacturers specs. Looks like I'll be buying the unit first. Now the hard part begins.

Gordon

[JAFO]

You are tremendously overthinking this.
Install 50a service, be done with it.



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[GordonH]

Originally Posted by JAFO

You are tremendously overthinking this.
Install 50a service, be done with it.



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You been talking to my wife?

Gordon

[Danjal]

Originally Posted by JAFO

You are tremendously overthinking this.
Install 50a service, be done with it.



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Yep. It will only pull as much as needed. Even if it's only pulling 20a on a 50a circuit or 20 on a 20,it's still malfunctioned and still going to meltdown.

[KTM640Dakar]

Originally Posted by GordonH

I'm trying to get the outlet done before I buy a unit. Do you know of any websites that have the manuals? My bing-fu is lacking.

Gordon

For a 230V outlet you can use a 30 amp fuse.

Same for 120 V 30 amp if you can. Most are only 20 amp. 15 amp if it's an old house.

[TheOtherBart]

Originally Posted by GordonH

I don't have a problem with running the 50a. wire, I'm more concerned with protecting the welding unit itself. If it's only drawing 20 or so amps, in the event of a problem internally where it is pulling more than that, I want the breaker either on the unit if it has one, or the one in the panel to trip before damage is done to the unit itself.

Gordon

The panel breaker is there to protect the house/garage wiring, not the equipment plugged into it. Like ER70S said, pretty much everything electrical in your house (lamps, computers, stove, dryer, whatever) is plugged into a circuit with a panel breaker well over what any of those devices could actually handle without melting down. Go with the 50A breaker and wiring big enough to handle that much current, then plug in anything that draws less than 50A.

[Stan_R80/7]

Originally Posted by GordonH

Recently looked at a Hobart mig with 240v input voltage. Specs say it draws 20. something amps, but has a 50 amp cord on it. Am I missing something on the spec sheet? I need to run a 240v circuit in the garage and depending on which brand I choose I want to do it correctly and only once. Do the popular brands have internal fuses/breakers that will trip at the right overcurrent for the unit? I know that if I install a 50 amp outlet I have to run 50 amp wire and have a 50 amp breaker, not a 30. Any ideas.

Gordon

If the Hobart welder you are looking at is the 210 MVP (which is extremely similar to a Miller 211) the plug is for a 50 amp outlet, but the welder cord wire is 14 gauge. The 14 gauge wire is sized due to the duty cycle of the welder. What you put in your garage is up to you, although a 20 amp 230V circuit will run the 210 (211) welder up to the duty cycle for 3/8" welding.

The wiring and circuit breaker should be sized together and meet code to protect the wiring and prevent overheating. What is plugged into the outlet is not part of code but should have it's own fuze or circuit breaker. For example, the 210 (211) welder 50 amp plug can use an adapter cord for a 20 or 30 amp 230V plug because of the welder duty cycle.

The most expensive option is to wire a 50 amp circuit using 6 gauge wire. An existing 230V 30 amp dryer outlet with an adapter cord for the welder is the least expensive option. Both will meet the needs for a Hobart (210)/Miller (211) but the details of what you want and need make all the difference. Good luck!

[bigskydrift]

somewhat new to mig welding....I recently purchased a Chicago Electric auto darkening hood from Harbor Freight, price was right and it seems to work well. Question / problem; What shade do I use ? In order to see the weld puddle I am at shade 9 or 10. While this allows me to see well I am experiencing "spots" in my vision for a minute or so after I stop welding. At shade 11 it is not happening but I can't see my weld puddle worth a darn. What is the experience of you more practiced welders out there ? I really need to be able to see the puddle but do not want to burn my eyeballs out !

[JAFO]

I use the same gear, set my helmet between 10 and 11. If you are having problems, maybe use sunglasses or tinted safety glasses under your shield? Should be wearing safety glasses at a minimum, anyway
Edit to add: I have noticed if I am welding in ambient dark (approaching night, night, or dusk) I will have a bit of flashburn due to the instantaneous change from dark/light conditions. Even with the autodarkening shield, I still catch that initial flare, I guess, and in those extreme conditions I have issues. Not a insurmountable problem : this is not work/production welding, it's more or less a hobby, so I've made a rule that I don't weld in anything other than full sun. If I was feeding the family with this, I'd pay big bucks for a better helm.
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[larryboy]

My eyeballs are worth more to me than a welding helmet from Harbor Freight. Imagine life without your eyes and go buy a decent lid.


I use this one and weld for a living:

http://store.cyberweld.com/jaboeqcaudaw.html

[ER70S-2]

If you wear reading glasses, these are available.

http://store.cyberweld.com/malemihe.html