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Old 06-24-2013, 03:45 PM   #3481
David R
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Put antiseeze on the bolt. Tighten, weld the nut on 3 sides, remove bolt.

Perfect job for a 110 volt mig.

If there is white smoke from zinc on the nut DO NOT BREATHE IT.

An acetylene Torch would add too much heat.

David
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Old 06-24-2013, 03:58 PM   #3482
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hastelloy-X View Post
3 weeks ago I was at a buddies house and he was welding up some 1/8 inch thick mild steel using a DC tig inverter machine. He was using thoriated tungstun with 15 cu ft flow of pure Argon. This was outside; not in a confined space.

I noticed after 5 minutes of intermittent welding a strong smell of ozone, but didn't think anything of it. 30 minutes after he started welding I went home.

On my way home, I felt strange; my chest felt tight and I had a hard time getting a breath. I could move air in and out but it didn't feel like my lungs were processing much of it. I thought I was going to pass out. It took 3 days before my breathing came back to normal. My mouth had a metalic taste during that time.

The next week I watched him weld some more but this time I stood 25 feet away. I noticed my chest felt tight but not as much as the first time and it only took a day for my breathing/chest tightness to return to normal.

I never experienced this phenomena before even with co2 MIG welding.
B
My buddy thinks I'm overly sensitive to Argon. What sayest you?

Argon is in every breath you take. Ozone is just Oxygen joined in triplicate O3. Did your friend use a cleaner? If you use brake cleaner on a part you can generate phosgene gas which will do just as you describe. It pulls all of the oxygen out of your lungs and even though your lungs move they will feel tight.

It will kill/sofficate you. I had this happen once in a muffler shop and we had to run out of the garage and it was scary. Be careful.

However it is a temporary event and should not last for days as you describe. You may have some other thing going on such as an alergy or reaction to something in the fumes.
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Old 06-24-2013, 04:35 PM   #3483
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Old 06-25-2013, 08:09 PM   #3484
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Hi guys. I need to Weld (mig) some 316 Stainless rail to the mild steel deck of my sailboat.

the guy at the welding shop recommended 309 wire, so I picked up some of that, and he said that I could probably get away with using 75/25 if I'm diligent about penetration.

Can I get by with using the 309 to weld two pieces of 316 together and then the entire assembly to the deck, or do I have to have 316 filler for that joint? I've obviously never welded stainless before, so any noob tips things I need to watch out for?
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Old 06-26-2013, 03:34 AM   #3485
David R
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Laugh Good luck

What he said I think..... :)
I am not a scientist, but 316 is better than 308 for welding 316. Rate of cooling matters too. I won't get into it with out reading the book first.

C/25 works only OK for me welding stainless. A tri mix made for stainless works far better this is only from experience. If shielded right I can get a good looking weld with the tri mix. With c/25 I have never got a good looking weld with out having to clean it up with a stainless steel wire brush. I think the Co2 is too much and its also a "Reactive" gas especially using 25%. I tig stainless when ever I can. I also use no filler when ever I can but most of what I do is food grade. No filler makes for A LOT less heat needed to make the weld. When done right, stainless flows like Butta.

I thought aluminum was tough to weld until I started doing stainless. It warps like crazy. The more the heat, the more the warp. Once its warped anything I do to straighten it only makes it worse.

Please post pictures.
David
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Old 07-03-2013, 08:14 AM   #3486
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Welding hood thoughts?

Hi folks, thanks for all the great info here. Didn't see any info on welding hoods here, so I thought I'd ask: which ones do you like?

My Miller Classic (? can't remember the model) from '09 just busted (ok, I busted) a lens and the replacement part is $200 so it's time for a new helmet. I MIG a couple hours each day (I'm a sculptor) on mild steel, so not production work and nothing complicated but I need good, reliable and sturdy. Was looking at the Miller Titanium 7300:

http://www.millerwelds.com/products/...oad-panel-7300

Comparable or better quality ones in this price range?

Also, anyone have a lead on solid helmet cases/bags? I think bouncing around in the back of my truck is what did the last helmet in . . .



Thanks!
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Old 07-03-2013, 09:08 AM   #3487
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtn View Post
Hi folks, thanks for all the great info here. Didn't see any info on welding hoods here, so I thought I'd ask: which ones do you like?

My Miller Classic (? can't remember the model) from '09 just busted (ok, I busted) a lens and the replacement part is $200 so it's time for a new helmet. I MIG a couple hours each day (I'm a sculptor) on mild steel, so not production work and nothing complicated but I need good, reliable and sturdy. Was looking at the Miller Titanium 7300:

http://www.millerwelds.com/products/...oad-panel-7300

Comparable or better quality ones in this price range?

Also, anyone have a lead on solid helmet cases/bags? I think bouncing around in the back of my truck is what did the last helmet in . . .



Thanks!
The larger the quik change lens, the more expensive the helmet. You have a small lens compared to the newer helmets available. You should be able to find one at the same size lens for under $150.

http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us...s/helmets.aspx
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Old 07-03-2013, 09:13 AM   #3488
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xymotic View Post
Hi guys. I need to Weld (mig) some 316 Stainless rail to the mild steel deck of my sailboat.

the guy at the welding shop recommended 309 wire, so I picked up some of that, and he said that I could probably get away with using 75/25 if I'm diligent about penetration.

Can I get by with using the 309 to weld two pieces of 316 together and then the entire assembly to the deck, or do I have to have 316 filler for that joint? I've obviously never welded stainless before, so any noob tips things I need to watch out for?

Blue Max 309LSi wire with 98%Ar 2%CO2 gas. Your mild steel will rust regardless of the dilution of the weld metal. I'm suprised you have any mild steel on a sail boat. The hull is mild steel? Must be a big sailboat.
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Old 07-04-2013, 04:30 PM   #3489
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KTM640Dakar View Post
The larger the quik change lens, the more expensive the helmet. You have a small lens compared to the newer helmets available.
A larger lens is real nice! Definitely worth the extra IMHO. If using the welder most days for work I'd probably splash out on a pro quality one but when I upgraded a few months back & asked here for recommendations on hoobby level stuff Stan suggested this one, available in the US at Northern Tool:



I found the same thing in NZ, branded Tecmen, at probably a third of the cost of any of the name brand helmets with the same size lens. I've spent a few hrs behind it now & it has been great. If using it every day I'd be thinking about upgrading the headgear though.

Cheers
Clint
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Old 07-17-2013, 02:31 AM   #3490
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Eeeewwwwww! Miller & Lincln and the like helmets suuuuuck. theyre for people that are clostrophobic (need to see a lot of useless non-weld crap that doesn't matter through an oversized window) and like killing their neck with heavy helmets.
Do yourself a favor. By a speedglas and if you're really serious about welding every day (ESPECIALLY FOR A LIVING) find one of the SL's (super lights). Best welding helmet ever made. They're 66% the weight of most M/L's. plus they go on faster & never need adjusting through the day using the sliding catch like a skate/snow/sky/wakeboard boot. They really are worth it. You set it one time the start of your shift and they hold it all day and light as a feather. Like anything, you get the two band adjustments and tension & pivot point adjustments, but you also can adjust how far off your face the helmet is. Seem, but not all helmets allow that. Very few non high end helmets had that even 5 years ago!


And since SG uses curved shielding all of them tend to last much longer before spotting up from splatter than the flat plates.

In ADV terms Speedglas is sleeping in a lightweight hammock with a comfy pillow on the beach.

12oz even!



I'm sure this isn't true everywhere in the USA, but I've never once walked into an actual large factory or clean environment setting and seen anything BUT speedglas helmets be the most popular choice. It's pretty much the smaller places, noobs and car people down here that buy miller/lincoln with big heavy windows and thick encompassing plastic. Fwiw every place I've ever heard of down south uses the Speedglas 9002 model going back as far as I can remember. I like th SL betters most guys love those old 9002's.

Toysrme screwed with this post 07-17-2013 at 02:49 AM
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Old 07-17-2013, 02:48 AM   #3491
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Last words of advice and please heed them.
DO ABSOLUTELY NOT
Buy knock off helmets. Especially from china.

They do not filter UV well and tend to have leaks you don't know about. What happens is you buy one for the back yard and you don't figure it out. You take it to production and when the unfortunate cheap-ass finishes his shift he finds his face burnt up like a lobster.

Probably saw that with a dozen people in harbor freight & similar Chinese knock offs back when I was in welding school. Worst case was in a factory tho. Kid thought it was from being outside all the time. He got fussy us my backup Jackson shadow while his face healed and swapped back so I made him put SPF 90 on his face. Guess who had a pink nose but normal white cheeks after one shift. Ya... Moral is buy a REAL auto helmet, or buy REAL filters for a manual, but dont cheap out. LoL
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Old 07-17-2013, 07:40 AM   #3492
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For the welding hood questions: I have a Nexgen hood, made by Jackson, and a Huntsman shade 11 lens. Never use either of them. Took a welding test yesterday and brought both hoods, changed over to a manual shade 11 glass filler plate while still on the scrap piece testing heat. The manual lens may not be the 'latest and greatest' but the color is consistent and when you want a shade 11 you get a shade 11. Not 10.5, or 11.75, or darker on the edges, etc. Anyone that doesn't believe me send me a PM, I'll make you a heck of a deal on one.




Now a welding question. Took a 6G tube test yesterday. TIG root, 7018 out. Scratch start, no pedal. Didn't feather the edges of my tacks and had one small spot of Incomplete Penetration. Very small, under 1/16". Passed with 15 of the inspectors, 4 failures. Not too bad, but I'm still pissed at myself.

Now at work if we get a spot like that you get a guy to 'watch you in' from a small window left in the gap, and you can fix it by running the rig over that spot. Sometimes you have to grind off a little bit of metal so the heat digs in enough, but it is very possible. I've been the welder and the looker a bunch of times in that instance. Anyone know of a sure-fire way to fix it without someone watching the backside? I was afraid to try it and go too slow, didn't want to drop the weld out. The way we do it at work is very unforgiving, as soon as it starts to break the inside down you pretty much have to get out of there with the rig or bad things will happen. It was on the top of my weld, so if it would have drooped there wasn't much I could have done without flipping the tube over to suck it back.
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Old 07-17-2013, 12:37 PM   #3493
David R
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Young welder asks the old guy "How do you make the bottom of the pipe look like the top?
Old weldor replies"Screw up the top"

For the pipe question why no foot pedal? You are using the same amps in all six positions? If its a 6 G how can you turn (flip) the pipe during a test?

There is no last word on which helmet is best. Harbor freight helmet is fine except it flickers with tig. I have never been burnt from any I (3) own. I use a miller elite. You use what works for you.
My Lincoln Vista is a little heavy, but the lens and electronics are great.
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Old 07-17-2013, 01:19 PM   #3494
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David R View Post
For the pipe question why no foot pedal?

We can't use a foot pedal on the job due to distance from the machine, so we don't get to use one in the testing booth.

You are using the same amps in all six positions?

I could adjust the amps by stopping if I wanted to, but I've always kept the heat constant. Can't adjust it at work anyways. I normally set it at around 90-110 amps depending on thickness and position. This is the first test I've failed, and have passed a few hundred x-rays on the job.

If its a 6 G how can you turn (flip) the pipe during a test?

Can't. If I could have, or if my bad spot was in the overhead position, I would have fixed it.

.
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Old 07-17-2013, 02:22 PM   #3495
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toysrme View Post
Last words of advice and please heed them.
DO ABSOLUTELY NOT
Buy knock off helmets. Especially from china.

They do not filter UV well and tend to have leaks you don't know about. What happens is you buy one for the back yard and you don't figure it out. You take it to production and when the unfortunate cheap-ass finishes his shift he finds his face burnt up like a lobster.
No doubt there's some cheap crap out there, & I'd be shopping for a Speedglas for pro purposes too... but I recently spent a solid day behind the above Tecmen Chinese job, 150-200A work on the TIG, with no problems at all. It's actually easier on the eyes than the (very) old ESAB it replaced due to switching much quicker. With 4x sensors & adjustable sensitivity there's no flickering even on low amps TIG.

Practising a bit lately, doing an axle swap on the 4x4 which will need a bunch of new mounts built, the welds have to be decent for it to be certified road legal.



If only I could do them like this out of position

Cheers
Clint
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