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Old 07-17-2013, 06:11 PM   #3496
Toysrme
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jules no doubt there are some great manual lenses out there. i always loved amber lenses for their pleasing color grading (green to burnt orange). some of the gold plated lenses are really great too! (the majority are just fakies tho)

aside from my speedglas, i always have a manual backup in the car/locker when im working. its just good practice.
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Old 07-17-2013, 06:41 PM   #3497
jules083
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Originally Posted by Toysrme View Post
jules no doubt there are some great manual lenses out there. i always loved amber lenses for their pleasing color grading (green to burnt orange). some of the gold plated lenses are really great too! (the majority are just fakies tho)

aside from my speedglas, i always have a manual backup in the car/locker when im working. its just good practice.
I tried a blue lens once and liked it. I end up reverting back to the regular cheapos though. Mainly because work supplies them and I work in a very dirty job that scratches things quickly.

I've used a few speedglas's, I always liked them best out of the autos. My nexgen goes bright sometimes in really tight places and my huntsman isn't a consistent enough color. Darker on the edges. Normally I carry it with me, as sometimes I dont have room to flip up the lens. I've been in quite a few very tight spots.



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Old 07-19-2013, 03:59 AM   #3498
motu
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I don't want to use the old style helmet at work, don't like borrowing the auto helmet from one of the other guys, and don't want to bring in my own auto helmet....so I've dragged this old thing in to use. The Easyview - it has a shade 4 lens in the upper window, a bit dark in a dark shop, but if there is light on the work or after glow you can see alright. Nice and light, close fitting and a full 90 deg lift....I can walk around the shop with it up where as I always take other helmets off.



Looks like they still make them.

http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~easyview/index.html
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Old 07-19-2013, 06:45 AM   #3499
N-m
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Location: Too Far from My Welder and BMW in South TN.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jules083 View Post
.
Why use a foot pedal on anything besides AL? It only complicates things for many.

I have never seen someone adjust the heat on a pipe bead but that's my experience. I would not want to take the time unless the welder is sitting right there next to you.
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Old 07-19-2013, 06:48 AM   #3500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jules083 View Post
I tried a blue lens once and liked it. I end up reverting back to the regular cheapos though. Mainly because work supplies them and I work in a very dirty job that scratches things quickly.

I've used a few speedglas's, I always liked them best out of the autos. My nexgen goes bright sometimes in really tight places and my huntsman isn't a consistent enough color. Darker on the edges. Normally I carry it with me, as sometimes I dont have room to flip up the lens. I've been in quite a few very tight spots.



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Heat exchanger? I wonder if they can get a robot in there?
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Old 07-19-2013, 06:53 AM   #3501
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toysrme View Post
.
Fwiw every place I've ever heard of down south uses the Speedglas 9002 model going back as far as I can remember. I like th SL betters most guys love those old 9002's.
I doubt that. Use what feels good to you and fits your budget. Small lenses don't work for me in anything but 3G/F positions.
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Old 07-19-2013, 07:01 AM   #3502
N-m
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Ozone is just Oxygen joined in triplicate O3.
According to the EPA ozone in low levels is dangerous.
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Old 07-19-2013, 04:55 PM   #3503
jules083
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Originally Posted by N-m View Post
Heat exchanger? I wonder if they can get a robot in there?
Mud drum from a package boiler built in the 70's. We keep plugging tubes as they blow out, just trying to limp another winter out of it. They run it one week a month roughly, and it normally blows 3-5 tubes every week. It's shot.

Don't mind the ugly slag covered weld. Only picture I have.



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Old 07-19-2013, 08:04 PM   #3504
N-m
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Originally Posted by jules083 View Post
Mud drum from a package boiler built in the 70's. We keep plugging tubes as they blow out, just trying to limp another winter out of it. They run it one week a month roughly, and it normally blows 3-5 tubes every week. It's shot.

Don't mind the ugly slag covered weld. Only picture I have.



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People call me crazy but I would have to try that given the opportunity just for bragging rights.
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Old 07-24-2013, 08:17 AM   #3505
Desert Skies
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ER70S-2 vs 6

I did a search for this but at over 3K posts, didn't want to wade through all the pages to find what I'm looking so forgive me for asking what I sure has be answered several times.

I started welding with Oxyacetylene and stick then got a MIG. I am by no means a pro welder, more of a hobby welder but I've built a lot of metal projects like trailers and work benches and so on.

Just recently, I bought a Miller Diversion 180. I want the ability to weld stainless and aluminum as well as very thin stock. I am buying supplies and have a question on filler rods, particularity ER70S.

I'm thinking I want the 2s but do I need 6s as well? Most of my carbon steel TIG welding will be new stock square and round tubing and flat bar with oils and mill scale.

Thanks amigos...
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Old 07-24-2013, 08:28 AM   #3506
bobivey
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My opinion, 70S2 for 99% of mild steel TIG welding
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Old 07-24-2013, 08:35 AM   #3507
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jules083 View Post
Mud drum from a package boiler built in the 70's. We keep plugging tubes as they blow out, just trying to limp another winter out of it. They run it one week a month roughly, and it normally blows 3-5 tubes every week. It's shot.

Don't mind the ugly slag covered weld. Only picture I have.



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Old 07-24-2013, 10:46 AM   #3508
David R
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Desert Skies View Post
I did a search for this but at over 3K posts, didn't want to wade through all the pages to find what I'm looking so forgive me for asking what I sure has be answered several times.

I started welding with Oxyacetylene and stick then got a MIG. I am by no means a pro welder, more of a hobby welder but I've built a lot of metal projects like trailers and work benches and so on.

Just recently, I bought a Miller Diversion 180. I want the ability to weld stainless and aluminum as well as very thin stock. I am buying supplies and have a question on filler rods, particularity ER70S.

I'm thinking I want the 2s but do I need 6s as well? Most of my carbon steel TIG welding will be new stock square and round tubing and flat bar with oils and mill scale.

Thanks amigos...
I use only S-6. Its the same as the mig wire I use. I find it flows better. Not all will agree with me. S-2 is more viscous (thicker) puddle . To each his own, so try both.

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Old 07-24-2013, 11:39 AM   #3509
ER70S-2
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205'd

Lincoln has an explanation of all their fillers, explaining the differences. Click on "Mild Steel, TIG Cut Lengths".
http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us...t-lengths.aspx

TIG doesn't deal with mill scale very well, porosity is probable. Remove it or get as agitated as I did trying to figure it out.
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Old 07-24-2013, 12:28 PM   #3510
Desert Skies
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
205'd

Lincoln has an explanation of all their fillers, explaining the differences. Click on "Mild Steel, TIG Cut Lengths".
http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us...t-lengths.aspx

TIG doesn't deal with mill scale very well, porosity is probable. Remove it or get as agitated as I did trying to figure it out.
Yeah, I did some test welds after I unpacked it on some uncleaned flat bar drops. My first two welds with a TIG.



left was with ER70S-6 and right was fuse with no filler.

I had to swap out my C25 bottle at lunch so I picked up some 2s to try out.

Thanks...
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