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Old 07-24-2013, 02:58 PM   #3511
David R
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No matter what filler I use, the mill scale has to go. I grind it off.

One customer I have only buys Cold rolled steel. No mill scale. I tig everything I do for him.

I have used both S-2 and S-6. With the S-2 it does not flow as well so I tend to use more heat which is not needed.

My Thermal Arc Arcmaster 185 (inverter) bit the dust. I bought a Lincoln Precision tig 225 to replace it. I miss the arcmaster. Going to try to get it fixed or just get a new one as a back up. I used the arcmaster for aluminum.

David
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Old 07-25-2013, 07:18 PM   #3512
KTM640Dakar OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Desert Skies View Post
I did a search for this but at over 3K posts, didn't want to wade through all the pages to find what I'm looking so forgive me for asking what I sure has be answered several times.

I started welding with Oxyacetylene and stick then got a MIG. I am by no means a pro welder, more of a hobby welder but I've built a lot of metal projects like trailers and work benches and so on.

Just recently, I bought a Miller Diversion 180. I want the ability to weld stainless and aluminum as well as very thin stock. I am buying supplies and have a question on filler rods, particularity ER70S.

I'm thinking I want the 2s but do I need 6s as well? Most of my carbon steel TIG welding will be new stock square and round tubing and flat bar with oils and mill scale.

Thanks amigos...

ER70S-2 uses Zirconium, Titanium, Aluminum, as well as Silicon, and Manganese to deoxidize the weld puddle.

Er70S-6 just uses silicon and manganese to deoxidize just more of it. The additional si makes the weld puddle flow better.

In the end both will work well on clean steel.
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Old 07-25-2013, 07:20 PM   #3513
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David R View Post
No matter what filler I use, the mill scale has to go. I grind it off.

One customer I have only buys Cold rolled steel. No mill scale. I tig everything I do for him.

I have used both S-2 and S-6. With the S-2 it does not flow as well so I tend to use more heat which is not needed.

My Thermal Arc Arcmaster 185 (inverter) bit the dust. I bought a Lincoln Precision tig 225 to replace it. I miss the arcmaster. Going to try to get it fixed or just get a new one as a back up. I used the arcmaster for aluminum.

David
David - You should weld with a Lincoln Invertec V205T AC/DC. It will make you not miss your old Arcmaster.
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Old 07-26-2013, 03:09 AM   #3514
David R
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KTM640Dakar View Post
ER70S-2 uses Zirconium, Titanium, Aluminum, as well as Silicon, and Manganese to deoxidize the weld puddle.

Er70S-6 just uses silicon and manganese to deoxidize just more of it. The additional si makes the weld puddle flow better.

In the end both will work well on clean steel.
I have seen this debate for years for MIG and TIG. I must say you explained it the easiest to understand.




I thought the PT 225 would do more than the arcmaster 185. At 230 amps I can run ONE 3/32 4043 filler. If I run 2, the hot light comes on.

Arcmaster never popped a 30 amp breaker. PT225 popped a 60 amp yesterday.

These are what we are welding. This is the preheat for 3 minutes.
Tube is about 3/8" wall, block on the end is solid.


I only do about 5 of these a year. All the other aluminum work is smaller.

I also have 2 V350, one with the pro panel. I tig carbon steel with one of those Its sweet!
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David R screwed with this post 07-26-2013 at 03:15 AM
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Old 07-27-2013, 06:42 PM   #3515
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David R View Post
I have seen this debate for years for MIG and TIG. I must say you explained it the easiest to understand.




I thought the PT 225 would do more than the arcmaster 185. At 230 amps I can run ONE 3/32 4043 filler. If I run 2, the hot light comes on.

Arcmaster never popped a 30 amp breaker. PT225 popped a 60 amp yesterday.

These are what we are welding. This is the preheat for 3 minutes.
Tube is about 3/8" wall, block on the end is solid.


I only do about 5 of these a year. All the other aluminum work is smaller.

I also have 2 V350, one with the pro panel. I tig carbon steel with one of those Its sweet!

Get a bottle of helium and use the V350 DC-. You can use a sharp tungsten

The reason the PT225 draws more current on your breaker is because it is a transformer power supply. The inverters like your old Arcmaster are an inverter and uses much less power to run.
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Old 07-29-2013, 03:22 PM   #3516
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N-m View Post
Why use a foot pedal on anything besides AL? It only complicates things for many.

I have never seen someone adjust the heat on a pipe bead but that's my experience. I would not want to take the time unless the welder is sitting right there next to you.

I've never even seen a footpedal in the field or fab tent for pipe. But we do often use remotes and it's not uncommon for the fitter to run the remote for the welder on the big inch (think 30"), or run both remotes for welders brother-in-lawing heavy wall big inch. Gotta control the heat some way. When you get to the top of 30" .75 wall she's scorching.


I'm a steamfitter so we don't do tubes, but can you backfeed the weld? I don't what gap you're running or what the material is. I don't scab on boilerhogs so I'm no use, I'm afraid. When welding stainless, dry washing a root is an excellent way to get suckback and bust the weld, amongst other things.


Speedglass helmets are retardedly expensive. I use my old Fibremetal with a pipeliner rig and a piece of glass. Watching your helmet come screaming down from 80 feet up and smash on the ground is shitty enough without a 285 or 300 or 360 dollar hood going to bits. With my Fibremetal I just collected the parts and rebuilt it.

or a 520 dollar OMG hood. I like the idea but fuck me, boys.


Mfg Industrial Price: $677.11
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Old 07-29-2013, 03:33 PM   #3517
David R
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Today I tried DC- with the PT225 on some scrap 1/4" aluminum. No luck. We cleaned the aluminum with solvent. No luck. We ground the aluminum so it was fresh using a wheel made for aluminum. I had 75/25 HE/AR at 25 cfh. The welding gods were just not smiling on us today.

For the helmet. One winter I was working on a cell tower. PLOW my way in, shovel the snow off the job, PREHEAT the work and weld. I packed up for lunch and left my miller elite on the back of the truck. SHIES! $300 helmet gone with the wind. I replaced it with a Lincoln Vista. Good optics, heavier and no gasket between the front "glass" and the auto dark lens. It fills up with smoke in between the two lenses. I then bought another Miller Elite. The lincoln is a spare.

David
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Old 07-29-2013, 06:39 PM   #3518
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Why would you try to weld aluminum with DC?
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Old 07-29-2013, 07:57 PM   #3519
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Originally Posted by JonnyCash View Post
Why would you try to weld aluminum with DC?
Tig....... DC..-.. with Helium dosen't require as much amperage as AC with Argon. However, Helium, being lighter than air, dosen't really make for a good shield gass.
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Old 07-29-2013, 10:59 PM   #3520
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Originally Posted by JonnyCash View Post
Why would you try to weld aluminum with DC?
:hmm

When welding aluminum, use AC current and a ceriated (gray identifying band) or 1.5% lanthanated (gold identifying band) tungsten.
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Old 07-30-2013, 03:18 AM   #3521
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^I've always used pure tungsten. Does ceriated have advantages? Can you use (maintain) a sharp tungsten? If so, I'm there. I don't love the fat arc of a balled tungsten.
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Old 07-30-2013, 04:27 AM   #3522
David R
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KTM640Dakar View Post
Get a bottle of helium and use the V350 DC-. You can use a sharp tungsten

The reason the PT225 draws more current on your breaker is because it is a transformer power supply. The inverters like your old Arcmaster are an inverter and uses much less power to run.
Johnny cash asks was asked why would I weld aluminium with DC-? SEE above.

I have 2% throated (red) cerated (Orange) and black. It makes no difference when I dunk it. ;)

Do as you wish, I just ball whatever I have for the PT 225.

The arc is better focused on an inverter.
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Old 07-30-2013, 08:09 AM   #3523
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Not to change the topic but, I just bought a Lincoln 350 mp at an auction for $1100 and would like to know if i could adapt my miller 30 spool gun to it.
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Old 07-30-2013, 09:00 AM   #3524
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This is WAY below you folk's pay grade, but..

I'm learning to stick weld because there are things I want to make that simply require basic welding, and, If you can glue metal together, you can make ANYTHING. So I bought a Lincoln AC-225, ran a circuit to the garage, got some scrap steel and some 6013 and started plugging away at it after watching a bunch of Youtube videos.
Couple questions:
When you are running the bead and controlling the arc, I know you need to stay pretty tight in there, but should you feel the stick dragging / hitting on the bottom of the puddle / base metals? As in, the lowest part of the stick bumping into the still hard steel? The only way I can seem to get this not to happen is to hold the stick at 60deg or so of an angle, and a bunch of the stuff online said to hold it closer to 45deg to control the puddle and push the slag back.. Thoughts?
Also, where can I get scrap steel cheap? I don't care if its bent, broken, rusty, whatever... but buying this bar stock is going to get expensive, and I want to practice more before I trust anything I build to anything.
This is my current setup, nothing fancy: (note, Tycho and Antares, the WeldPups, are inside when this is happening, and the rear door and garage door are open and the fan is on)
welddogs
My first project is a little roll cart / stick /helmet holder for my welder, as its currently monopolizing my creeper. Then off to AtomicZombie...

Some practice shots. Note, some (not all) of the terrible bits are on purpose, seeing what happens when I long arc, too hot, too cold, hold in one spot, etc. Trying to familiarize myself with the different sounds and timing, etc. This is all with 1/8th steel, mostly at either 120 or 135 amp setting (who knows how accurate) and with 6013AC rods, inexpensive ones from US Forge. Mostly I'm just running a bunch of beads to get down the motions, understand whats going on, etc. This bar is the first time I've ever welded., don't be too harsh.
weld
weld2

Thoughts, critiques, snide remarks, helpful suggestions?
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Old 07-30-2013, 09:34 AM   #3525
David R
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Don't worry you got it. The rod should not hit bottom, but its not the end of the world. Long arc makes spatter. Less weave more stringers. Looking good!

Get scrap steel from a scrap yard, or as they call them one recycling yards.

From the phone in my shoe
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