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Old 12-03-2013, 02:16 PM   #3796
fxstbiluigi
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Originally Posted by Stan_R80/7 View Post
The people I have watched that appeared to know what they were doing (i.e. paid pipe fitters and welders) always used a portable bandsaw for such work. HF sells one (that I have bought - but not used much): http://www.harborfreight.com/power-t...saw-47840.html. I bought my portable bandsaw to use with a small generator to cut 20' sections of 1/8" steel angle to carry home.

I have yet to see a blade on a HF tool that was adequate. Milwaukee sells a more industrial portable band saw for ~ 2-1/2 times the price as the HF. Slow speed is needed for cutting steel. Having used abrasive blades, I found the bandsaw a huge improvement - and the lack of vibration, noise, and abrasive dust are appreciated also.
One of my favorite toys, when I was working, was a Milwaukee portaband. A good quality saw will last a long time and is really handy, but they are expensive and the blades, which are also expensive, can either last for several cuts or be ruined part way thru the first cut depending on the experience of the operator. Even the deepthroat portaband has limitations as to shape and size of material it will cut.
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Old 12-03-2013, 03:10 PM   #3797
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Originally Posted by MiteyF View Post
A good horizontal band saw will make an abrasive chop saw look like a children's toy.
My point was that if a chop saw is slow then you're doing something really wrong.

The first time I used on I didn't know any better, and taking 8 minutes to cut 2x2x1/4 tubing. Yes, I actually timed it to see how many hours it would take to make all the cuts. Swapped the blade and each cut took a few seconds.
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Old 12-03-2013, 03:18 PM   #3798
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Those little chop saws that look like they outts have a wood blade on them, should.
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Old 12-03-2013, 03:21 PM   #3799
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Originally Posted by fxstbiluigi View Post
Do you have an O/A torch and bottles.......... cutting torch? I've seen some people that were really good with a cutting torch, Years ago thats all there was Learn how to use it. It's a lot cheaper than cutoff blades and ya arn't breathing all that dust or have it down the back of your neck.
Use a straight edge to help guide the torch when the length of cut allows
Cutting anything thinner than 1/4" plate is not recommended because of warpage, but sq. tube, channel and pipe are easily cut with a torch.
I don't have an OA set. Too big and bulky, and expensive. I also rarely weld anything over 3/16, 1/4 max. My "cheap" Everlast TIG has a plasma cutter, but I only have a very small pancake compressor. I'm looking for clean cuts at definite angles though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stan_R80/7 View Post
The people I have watched that appeared to know what they were doing (i.e. paid pipe fitters and welders) always used a portable bandsaw for such work. HF sells one (that I have bought - but not used much): http://www.harborfreight.com/power-t...saw-47840.html. I bought my portable bandsaw to use with a small generator to cut 20' sections of 1/8" steel angle to carry home.
I've used portable band saws, and while they *can* work nicely, it's almost impossible to get a perfect 90* cut without trimming or fiddling. At least for me... it seems they typically want to buck and fight you, and it's too easy to break a blade. And when you DO break a blade, you have to spend the next 3 minutes fitting a new one. For some things, they are invaluable, and nothing else will suffice. However, I see them as a "field" tool. IMHO, if you've got a work bench, you might as well buy a bench tool. Like using a jig saw to cut a 10" circle in the shop, when you could use your vertical band saw.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Luke View Post
My point was that if a chop saw is slow then you're doing something really wrong.

The first time I used on I didn't know any better, and taking 8 minutes to cut 2x2x1/4 tubing. Yes, I actually timed it to see how many hours it would take to make all the cuts. Swapped the blade and each cut took a few seconds.
Technique and blade choice are indeed very important. All I'm saying is that a toothed blade is almost ALWAYS faster than an abrasive blade.

This series of posts got me to thinking though... what about a portable band saw, with a fixture rigged up to turn it into a horizontal band saw?

Aaawww, shit... you guys got the wheels turning...
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Old 12-03-2013, 03:33 PM   #3800
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MiteyF View Post
I don't have an OA set. Too big and bulky, and expensive. I also rarely weld anything over 3/16, 1/4 max. My "cheap" Everlast TIG has a plasma cutter, but I only have a very small pancake compressor. I'm looking for clean cuts at definite angles though.



I've used portable band saws, and while they *can* work nicely, it's almost impossible to get a perfect 90* cut without trimming or fiddling. At least for me... it seems they typically want to buck and fight you, and it's too easy to break a blade. And when you DO break a blade, you have to spend the next 3 minutes fitting a new one. For some things, they are invaluable, and nothing else will suffice. However, I see them as a "field" tool. IMHO, if you've got a work bench, you might as well buy a bench tool. Like using a jig saw to cut a 10" circle in the shop, when you could use your vertical band saw.



Technique and blade choice are indeed very important. All I'm saying is that a toothed blade is almost ALWAYS faster than an abrasive blade.

This series of posts got me to thinking though... what about a portable band saw, with a fixture rigged up to turn it into a horizontal band saw?

Aaawww, shit... you guys got the wheels turning...
For some reason I think Milwaukee has something like that for the deep throat saw.

as far as not being able to cut @ 90 degrees. Support the weight of the tool a its weight is forcing the blade to wander, also a line to follow will help to keep it straight. Finally let the stop on the saw come to rest against the material.
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Old 12-03-2013, 03:40 PM   #3801
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I think you mean a band saw stand: http://www.ebay.com/bhp/band-saw-stand

There are several types; this is but one:
http://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-J1T-12.../dp/B0000DCZ7H

And of course, the homemade versions:
http://www.instructables.com/id/Home...ut-off-Vertic/

Good luck!

Edit: the best value tool I have purchased so far is the Harbor Freight 4x6 bandsaw (sans the HF blade). For metalwork, it's a great tool and extremely versatile with a bit of creativity. There is a (cult?) following in the yahoo 4x6 bandsaw group.

Stan_R80/7 screwed with this post 12-03-2013 at 03:46 PM
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Old 12-03-2013, 04:01 PM   #3802
fxstbiluigi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stan_R80/7 View Post
I think you mean a band saw stand: http://www.ebay.com/bhp/band-saw-stand

There are several types; this is but one:
http://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-J1T-12.../dp/B0000DCZ7H

And of course, the homemade versions:
http://www.instructables.com/id/Home...ut-off-Vertic/

Good luck!

Edit: the best value tool I have purchased so far is the Harbor Freight 4x6 bandsaw (sans the HF blade). For metalwork, it's a great tool and extremely versatile with a bit of creativity. There is a (cult?) following in the yahoo 4x6 bandsaw group.
Ya the ones in the first link. the depth of the throat ( 4-5/8") of a deep throat milwaukee still determines the length of piece you can cut.
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"Politicians are always interested in people.
Not that this is always a virtue.
Fleas are interested in dogs." -P.J.O'Rourke
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Old 12-03-2013, 04:39 PM   #3803
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Well fuck me... I may have found my answer. Thanks gents! Now I gotta find me a 20% off HF coupon, pick up a saw, and get to designing a stand I suppose!
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Old 12-03-2013, 04:54 PM   #3804
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First time I ever used a cold saw it spoiled me forever. I look at my hf horizontal bandsaw and the hatred boils over lol
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Old 12-04-2013, 07:04 AM   #3805
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Originally Posted by sailah View Post
First time I ever used a cold saw it spoiled me forever. I look at my hf horizontal bandsaw and the hatred boils over lol
Ditto...Coldsaw is badass..20+yrs old and still cutting and quick for an old Startrite 315, I think I gave $1500 used for it.
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Old 12-04-2013, 07:23 AM   #3806
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Cold saw's got nothing on the HEM saw. We have a Cyclone @ work with 24" of auto-feed. http://www.metalsaw.com/HEM-Cyclone-Semi-Auto.cfm

Re: Portabands; the Dewalt cuts better than the milwaukee, everyone likes it better. Also has an led light. We use both at work. Blade changes are a 1 minute affair. SWAG offroad has a nice stand
http://www.swagoffroad.com/SWAG-Port...les-_c_35.html
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Old 12-04-2013, 02:39 PM   #3807
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254 pages and I finally have a question!

I am new to welding. I have been very inspired by this thread and I've read the whole thing!

So, I have this chrome rack that I took off an 83 Nighthawk. I want to cut it up and use the pieces to make a rack for my DR350. Trouble is the rack is chrome.

I realize chrome is dangerous and can't be welded on, but what is the safest way to strip off the chrome and how can i be sure there will not be any chromium fumes when I am ready to weld it up?

My lungs and blood thank you in advance
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Old 12-04-2013, 03:18 PM   #3808
David R
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Its chrome plated with a few thousandths. You will have to grind off the chrome where you are going to weld and just a little more. It will rust were you ground off the chrome and your welds will rust. Like any other welding don't breathe the fumes.

David


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Originally Posted by Vankaye View Post
I am new to welding. I have been very inspired by this thread and I've read the whole thing!

So, I have this chrome rack that I took off an 83 Nighthawk. I want to cut it up and use the pieces to make a rack for my DR350. Trouble is the rack is chrome.

I realize chrome is dangerous and can't be welded on, but what is the safest way to strip off the chrome and how can i be sure there will not be any chromium fumes when I am ready to weld it up?

My lungs and blood thank you in advance
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Old 12-04-2013, 03:22 PM   #3809
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Bragging rights

This has been discussed before, but today was one of my better ones.

I had two 5/8" studs broken off in a wheel hub for a forklift. I built them up with weld and welded a nut to get them out.









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Old 12-04-2013, 03:29 PM   #3810
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vankaye View Post
I am new to welding. I have been very inspired by this thread and I've read the whole thing!

So, I have this chrome rack that I took off an 83 Nighthawk. I want to cut it up and use the pieces to make a rack for my DR350. Trouble is the rack is chrome.

I realize chrome is dangerous and can't be welded on, but what is the safest way to strip off the chrome and how can i be sure there will not be any chromium fumes when I am ready to weld it up?

My lungs and blood thank you in advance
Wait....wut?????? The rack is not chrome, it is chrome plated like said only a few 1000ths thick. Chrome plating commonly starts with a layer of copper then a layer of nickle and finally a layer of chrome. Chrome alloys are commonly welded and stainless steel is predominately nickle and chrome. So where did you come up with it can't be welded? Hexavalent chrome is what is hazardous and it is a very small % of the fumes given off but regardless breathing any fumes should be avoided. If you want to remove it you could use emery cloth (sand paper)
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