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Old 12-11-2013, 10:02 AM   #3826
dmaxmike
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the starts and stops on your tubing look good, the ones on the plate not so much. other then that it all looks good and its definitely not going to fall apart. the stack o dimes just comes with time and good setup. practice the whole weld and make sure you can complete it all in one pass comfortably before you strike an arc, and if you cant make it so you can or plan your starts and stops accordingly.
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Old 12-11-2013, 10:12 AM   #3827
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Quote:
Originally Posted by little_twin View Post
I am just looking for a little critique on my welds. I just picked up a miller 211 and am loving it.

Here are some of my most recent, any feedback is appreciated.

They all look fine. Nice to have a good machine, isn't it?
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Old 12-11-2013, 01:31 PM   #3828
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmaxmike View Post
the starts and stops on your tubing look good, the ones on the plate not so much. other then that it all looks good and its definitely not going to fall apart. the stack o dimes just comes with time and good setup. practice the whole weld and make sure you can complete it all in one pass comfortably before you strike an arc, and if you cant make it so you can or plan your starts and stops accordingly.
Starts and stops are where I have the most trouble. I am still getting used to the 211 and it's capabilities. One thing I have been working on is adjusting speed based on the length of the weld and heat saturation. I am quickly learning the importance of being able to "read" the puddle.

I must say the miller 211 is a damn nice machine for my hobby use.
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Old 12-13-2013, 01:14 PM   #3829
CodyY
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Looks great. On stops I usually do a little "circle" to avoid cratering. Just works w MY timing best that way. Of course it depends on wire and material
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Old 12-13-2013, 03:35 PM   #3830
David R
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There is a note in music that is nothing, a pause.

That pause is important. At the end of a weld, pause before and after letting go of the trigger, or stopping the arc if its stick. With tig, keep adding filler, but stop forward travel. This is most important for aluminum. At the end of a bead build a little tit. When it cools it will shrink to the bead makes a nice ending. No crater, no horseshoe to help start a crack.

If another bead is going to follow the one you are stopping, just stop. Start the new one ahead a little. Once the arc is established, move back to the end of the last bead and go forward. This ties them together nicely.

I don't start or stop in corners or on tacks.

Just my way of starts and stops.

David
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Old 01-05-2014, 12:52 PM   #3831
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Multiplaz

I did a quick search and see that there is a short thread on this in The Garage: link. I added to that thread with some updated URL's.

Just wondering what other's think of the Multiplaz? www.multiplaz.com.
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Old 01-05-2014, 01:34 PM   #3832
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RAGBrian View Post
I did a quick search and see that there is a short thread on this in The Garage: link. I added to that thread with some updated URL's.

Just wondering what other's think of the Multiplaz? www.multiplaz.com.
I think they need a web page with more information - other than testimonials from TV shows and popular mechanics. Something like this would be good:http://www.everlastgenerators.com/pr...tegory-57.html

Also, I think they should include a 'principles of operation' page which describes the advantages and trade-offs. Alternately, get Ron Popeil to make an infomercial on the uses of the Multiplaz 3500. Overall, I was not impressed. But, using water and alcohol to generate a plasma for cutting instead of air may have some distinct advantages - which they should describe.
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Old 01-06-2014, 09:37 AM   #3833
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I've been practicing with a new TIG, and am still having a helluva time. I can run acceptable beads on a blank piece of aluminum, but make a mess when trying to join anything. Latest test was welding a couple pieces of 1/8" aluminum together to make a square tube. Lot's of spitting going on and aluminum doesn't seem to want to flow.

Running argon at 10cfm. I've tried 1/8" and 3/16" rods with ball formed on end. AC at various settings (scrub vs. penetration).

Could the issue be insufficient gas flow when working on pieces with a small gap?

Any guidance on cup size and how far the rod tip should extend beyond the cup?

I've got 30+ years experience with torch welding of steel and can make great welds there. When welding corners, the TIG arc seems to wander all over the place, making it difficult to direct the heat where I want it to go.
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Old 01-06-2014, 09:47 AM   #3834
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This guy seems to know what he is doing when TIG welding aluminum, and can explain it:
http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/...m-welding.html
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Old 01-06-2014, 10:58 AM   #3835
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HellSickle View Post
I've been practicing with a new TIG, and am still having a helluva time. I can run acceptable beads on a blank piece of aluminum, but make a mess when trying to join anything. Latest test was welding a couple pieces of 1/8" aluminum together to make a square tube. Lot's of spitting going on and aluminum doesn't seem to want to flow.

Running argon at 10cfm. I've tried 1/8" and 3/16" rods with ball formed on end. AC at various settings (scrub vs. penetration).

Could the issue be insufficient gas flow when working on pieces with a small gap?

Any guidance on cup size and how far the rod tip should extend beyond the cup?

I've got 30+ years experience with torch welding of steel and can make great welds there. When welding corners, the TIG arc seems to wander all over the place, making it difficult to direct the heat where I want it to go.
I don't get paid to weld so take this for what it's worth...but I do weld aluminum often and get good results.

I would be using 3/32" pure tungsten, ground and then balled up DC+(35A on a piece of plate steel until you get the ball you are looking for)

AC, I set my balance to auto. I'll set the amps to around 115 and use the pedal to get what I want. I use a no 7 cup, 3/32" to 1/4" stickout and 15 cfm. I ensure all my base is totally clean using SS brush then wiped down with acetone. I also wipe down my filler rods using acetone and am very careful about where I set them down to keep them clean.

With those settings on my machine I can get good results every time.

One thing I have noticed on outside corners is that I feel the argon wants to roll off because nothing is holding it there. Sometimes I'll make a dam to keep the argon cloud over the puddle if I feel it will be an issue. Most of the time with a gas lens I can just turn up the flow.

But I'll let the experts chime in.
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Old 01-06-2014, 11:13 AM   #3836
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sailah View Post
I don't get paid to weld so take this for what it's worth...but I do weld aluminum often and get good results.

I would be using 3/32" pure tungsten, ground and then balled up DC+(35A on a piece of plate steel until you get the ball you are looking for)

AC, I set my balance to auto. I'll set the amps to around 115 and use the pedal to get what I want. I use a no 7 cup, 3/32" to 1/4" stickout and 15 cfm. I ensure all my base is totally clean using SS brush then wiped down with acetone. I also wipe down my filler rods using acetone and am very careful about where I set them down to keep them clean.

With those settings on my machine I can get good results every time.

One thing I have noticed on outside corners is that I feel the argon wants to roll off because nothing is holding it there. Sometimes I'll make a dam to keep the argon cloud over the puddle if I feel it will be an issue. Most of the time with a gas lens I can just turn up the flow.

But I'll let the experts chime in.
Good stuff, thanks. It looks like contamination is my problem, so I'll work on extra cleaning.

After posting, I found a number of helpful Youtube videos. Ones series is from "Mr. TIG". According to him, I think my wandering arc issue is due to too much of a ball on the end of the electrode. I'll make sure it's just a spherical tip, rather than a globe on the end.
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Old 01-06-2014, 11:19 AM   #3837
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HellSickle View Post
Good stuff, thanks. It looks like contamination is my problem, so I'll work on extra cleaning.

After posting, I found a number of helpful Youtube videos. Ones series is from "Mr. TIG". According to him, I think my wandering arc issue is due to too much of a ball on the end of the electrode. I'll make sure it's just a spherical tip, rather than a globe on the end.

Yeah you don't need the ball to be huge.

Try, if you never have, to ball the tungsten on DC+ using 35 amps. Just strike an arc over a piece of clean steel and feather in the pedal until the ball is just the right size. It's very easy to do and takes a couple seconds but a lot easier than waiting for it to happen on AL. The flip back to AC, crank the amps and weld away.
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Old 01-06-2014, 12:47 PM   #3838
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sailah View Post
I would be using 3/32" pure tungsten, ground and then balled up DC+(35A on a piece of plate steel until you get the ball you are looking for)
I've only laid a few (as in, about a handful) of TIG beads on aluminium, but have heard time and time again that you're not supposed to use pure tungsten with an inverter machine. No idea what you've got in your shop, just FYI...

sailah was SUPER helpful when I was in the market for a TIG though, so listen up, he knows his shit and is very gracious with his knowledge...
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Old 01-06-2014, 01:14 PM   #3839
sailah
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I have no idea on the inverter thing, all I have every welded with are transformer machines. I have also welded aluminum with red because I was too lazy to change it out once and it was fine.

Speaking of contamination, I was welding up an oil tank for a buddy today and it was a constant challenge with shit floating up through the puddle. I cleaned it continuously while I was welding and took every precaution I could. Came out great though and I tested the weld with acetone on the inside.

This was after I painted it sorry

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Old 01-06-2014, 03:19 PM   #3840
David R
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Nice work. Worth re posting

If I ball a red or black or whatever tungsten, it works great on AC. I also go one size bigger tungsten. This is for both inverter and transformer. Pure tungsten doesn't hold up to the heat as well.

If it gets contaminated, sometimes if I re ball it, the ball comes out clean and shiny. I use a clean piece of aluminum to form the ball. I have used copper, but do not have any. It only takes a few amps on DC+

On cast aluminum I make a pass with no filler to boil the crud out first. Clean up again and weld away.

It doesn't matter what color the electrode is when I dunk it in the puddle.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sailah View Post
I have no idea on the inverter thing, all I have every welded with are transformer machines. I have also welded aluminum with red because I was too lazy to change it out once and it was fine.

Speaking of contamination, I was welding up an oil tank for a buddy today and it was a constant challenge with shit floating up through the puddle. I cleaned it continuously while I was welding and took every precaution I could. Came out great though and I tested the weld with acetone on the inside.

This was after I painted it sorry

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