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Old 02-10-2014, 01:40 PM   #3901
MiteyF
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Originally Posted by crazybrit View Post
I've pretty much convinced myself that it's not worth the slim risk and I'm going to be keeping the welder in the detached one-car garage and welding outside via a 50' extension cord run down to the basement dryer outlet. Not ideal as it's freaking cold outside

Being too paranoid?
I don't think so. I'd have no problem welding inside with all the necessary safety precautions, but with a baby in the house, I'd opt out too. Good on ya.

As far as cold, let's not talk about it... I picked up my "new" TIG a few months ago, and my projects are piling up... there have only been a handful of days above freezing over the last 2 months here, usually somewhere between 0 and 20.
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Old 02-10-2014, 02:35 PM   #3902
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Being too paranoid?
Yes. A few welding fumes will help harden the little bugger up

but seriously, get all the grease & oil off your metal, keep away from stuff like paint & galv & TIG is pretty clean, it's actually one of the things I really like about it compared with stick & MIG, being able to weld without filling the shop with sparks, splatter & fumes. Maybe just duct the outlet of your extractor fan off to the side a bit so it's not wafting straight up into the kids window.

Always do a bit of a fire watch, stick around & tidy up for 10 min after laying in the last weld, don't finish welding & walk straight out. I'll usually check on the shed again after 1/2-1hr too just to make sure.

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Old 02-10-2014, 03:41 PM   #3903
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Weldmark

Anyone know anything about Weldmark welders...I think that's the name?
Mig 25-140 120V
Found a couple at out local welding shop.
They said good welders for hobby light weight.
Rebranded Hobart is what they said.

Thanks
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Old 02-10-2014, 04:23 PM   #3904
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Looks like they might be made by hobart but from the vid that weldmark put up the build quality is very low. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dd_-IjhtduY

Looks like the weldmark is sold under the name real gear mig 140 on craigslist.

I'd spend a little more and grab a hobart 140 or 190. The 140 runs $500 from tractor supply but you can find them on sale and use coupons. The new ones have a cast feed and they moved the reset to the front. They sell a auto arc auto darkening helmet that is surprisingly nice for the price too.
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Old 02-10-2014, 04:55 PM   #3905
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Originally Posted by crazybrit View Post
My plan was to TIG weld in my unfinished (concrete walled) basement, keeping all combustibles away, 20 pound fire extinguisher + blanket on hand etc etc. Install a small exhaust fan in the window directly above the basement location I had in mind (high enough above that hopefully wouldn't mess up argon flow).

The rub is that while TIG fumes should be minimal compared to other welding methods I have a 3 month old who's nursery is basically directly above where I'd be welding.

I've pretty much convinced myself that it's not worth the slim risk and I'm going to be keeping the welder in the detached one-car garage and welding outside via a 50' extension cord run down to the basement dryer outlet. Not ideal as it's freaking cold outside

Being too paranoid?
Argon is heavier than air. So it will settle to the lowest point. A fan in a window close to the celling may not provide enough air circulation to keep the argon from reaching a lethal density.

50 feet of extension cord (even if it is heavy guage wire) to be running a welding machine. I would be concerned about overloading the breaker and house wiring.

Have a pro install an outlet for the welder in the garage.
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Old 02-10-2014, 05:42 PM   #3906
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Originally Posted by rustycager View Post
Looks like they might be made by hobart but from the vid that weldmark put up the build quality is very low. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dd_-IjhtduY

Looks like the weldmark is sold under the name real gear mig 140 on craigslist.

I'd spend a little more and grab a hobart 140 or 190. The 140 runs $500 from tractor supply but you can find them on sale and use coupons. The new ones have a cast feed and they moved the reset to the front. They sell a auto arc auto darkening helmet that is surprisingly nice for the price too.
Yep that's the one I'm going to look around a little.
And might see if I can deal with them.
Thanks for the info.

Fred
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Old 02-10-2014, 05:59 PM   #3907
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fxstbiluigi View Post
Argon is heavier than air. So it will settle to the lowest point. A fan in a window close to the celling may not provide enough air circulation to keep the argon from reaching a lethal density.
I think it would require a lot of argon to get to this point. True if you left the valve open and it leaked. It's certainly something to be aware of.

Quote:
50 feet of extension cord (even if it is heavy guage wire) to be running a welding machine. I would be concerned about overloading the breaker and house wiring.
I don't think this is an issue either. These are the specs on the welder. I was going to buy a 50' 8 AWG extension. Duty cycle isn't very high.



Bigger issue for the basement idea I've decided is just the total lack of space. I was thinking of making a small 18x24 folding table to sit under the window (you can see the exposed rafters/subfloor, first floor bedroom is directly above) but there just isn't the space for it.

I'm thinking it'll be better to weld outside where I have actual space.

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Old 02-10-2014, 06:24 PM   #3908
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6061 billet aluminum

I am planning on buying a billet aluminum side stand for my KTM which will soon be lowered by about 1' to 1 1/2". I know absolutely nothing about welding but have gotten some recommendations for a few very good welders in this area. I would just like to know if the integrity (strength) of the aluminum would be compromised by cutting and re-welding the pieces back together. The stand is a little pricey. I thought it might be good to get a few opinions here before I let somebody hack it up.

Any thoughts on what some one would charge to cut and weld the stand?

I didn't dig through this entire thread. Sorry if this has been covered before.
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Old 02-10-2014, 06:41 PM   #3909
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Originally Posted by dualindalton View Post
I am planning on buying a billet aluminum side stand for my KTM which will soon be lowered by about 1' to 1 1/2". I know absolutely nothing about welding but have gotten some recommendations for a few very good welders in this area. I would just like to know if the integrity (strength) of the aluminum would be compromised by cutting and re-welding the pieces back together. The stand is a little pricey. I thought it might be good to get a few opinions here before I let somebody hack it up.

Any thoughts on what some one would charge to cut and weld the stand?

I didn't dig through this entire thread. Sorry if this has been covered before.
My guess (and it's just a guess) would be an hour's rate (most shops minimum). Probably $50ish? Chop out an inch or 2, butt them up and weld them. Nothing too hard or time consuming. Hell, you could probably even find an inmate local to you with a welder that would do it for some beer and jaw flapping!
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Old 02-10-2014, 06:58 PM   #3910
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I am planning on buying a billet aluminum side stand for my KTM which will soon be lowered by about 1' to 1 1/2".
Are you talking about a ProMotoBillet? I'm not aware of anyone else who makes billet side-stands for the KTM If so the foot is already welded on. Just cut it off, grind off the old weld, shorten the stand reweld on the foot. Done correctly it'll be as strong as before and indistinguishable (except for the length). Agree w/ Mitey above, I'd ask on your regional forum here, someone will help you out for a 6-pack. Doesn't need the skills of a pro welder.

Not sure if you're interested but I have a Trailtech side-stand that's already been shortened 1" for sale in the FM. I had it on 07 450 4t and 06 300 2t. If you're not bound to the billet/bling Not sure if it fits a 2011 530 tho.
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Old 02-10-2014, 07:04 PM   #3911
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Originally Posted by dualindalton View Post
I am planning on buying a billet aluminum side stand for my KTM which will soon be lowered by about 1' to 1 1/2". I know absolutely nothing about welding but have gotten some recommendations for a few very good welders in this area. I would just like to know if the integrity (strength) of the aluminum would be compromised by cutting and re-welding the pieces back together. The stand is a little pricey. I thought it might be good to get a few opinions here before I let somebody hack it up.

Any thoughts on what some one would charge to cut and weld the stand?

I didn't dig through this entire thread. Sorry if this has been covered before.
Cut the section off right at the foot, it's where the stand is least stressed. The closer to the pivot, the more force on the weld.

T-6 alum is common, T for temper. But after welding it becomes T-0. I have no idea if KTM (or anyone else), re-tempers any alum after welding. It's a complicated procedure, not anything like heating and letting cool slowly, or quenching, in the other extreme.
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Old 02-10-2014, 07:06 PM   #3912
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazybrit View Post

I'm thinking it'll be better to weld outside where I have actual space.
Lookin at that, yeah

The other thing is, welding also usually means grinding, which is best done away from the lil' machine shop. Everything in the back half of my 20x20' shed that I don't want to have sparks or grinding dust land on is either shut away or gets covered.

Just select all your first projects based on max size & material thickness. Run that puppy at the full 186A down a few long joins & you'll warm up a bit Thin stuff can wait for summer

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Cut the section off right at the foot, it's where the stand is least stressed. The closer to the pivot, the more force on the weld.

T-6 alum is common, T for temper. But after welding it becomes T-0. I have no idea if KTM (or anyone else), re-tempers any alum after welding. It's a complicated procedure, not anything like heating and letting cool slowly, or quenching, in the other extreme.
Yep, welded near the foot is the way to go. T6 heat treatment isn't actually too complicated if you have a temp controlled oven that gets hot enough. I remember looking it up to do some fixed up MTB parts years ago as my old workplace had a suitable oven.

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Old 02-10-2014, 07:11 PM   #3913
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Lookin at that, yeah
You've not seen the detached garage yet

Thanks for confirming. We'll be moving in ~2 years plus more importantly the house only has 100A service (going to 250A meant a utility mandated/$$$ mast-relocation). Otherwise, as previously suggested, I'd install a sub-panel in the garage with 240v.
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Old 02-10-2014, 07:13 PM   #3914
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Originally Posted by MiteyF View Post
My guess (and it's just a guess) would be an hour's rate (most shops minimum). Probably $50ish? Chop out an inch or 2, butt them up and weld them. Nothing too hard or time consuming. Hell, you could probably even find an inmate local to you with a welder that would do it for some beer and jaw flapping!
Having it done for $50ish dollars would be fine......having it done for a few beers would be better. Thanks
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Old 02-10-2014, 07:18 PM   #3915
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Originally Posted by crazybrit View Post
Are you talking about a ProMotoBillet? I'm not aware of anyone else who makes billet side-stands for the KTM If so the foot is already welded on. Just cut it off, grind off the old weld, shorten the stand reweld on the foot. Done correctly it'll be as strong as before and indistinguishable (except for the length). Agree w/ Mitey above, I'd ask on your regional forum here, someone will help you out for a 6-pack. Doesn't need the skills of a pro welder.

Not sure if you're interested but I have a Trailtech side-stand that's already been shortened 1" for sale in the FM. I had it on 07 450 4t and 06 300 2t. If you're not bound to the billet/bling Not sure if it fits a 2011 530 tho.
Yes it is the Pro Moto billet stand. Looked at the Trail Tech....doesn't fit the 530.
Cutting the foot noted.
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