ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Gear > The Garage
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 02-10-2014, 06:25 PM   #3916
dualindalton
Gnarly Adventurer
 
dualindalton's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2008
Location: North Ga.- between East and West-
Oddometer: 105
Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Cut the section off right at the foot, it's where the stand is least stressed. The closer to the pivot, the more force on the weld.

T-6 alum is common, T for temper. But after welding it becomes T-0. I have no idea if KTM (or anyone else), re-tempers any alum after welding. It's a complicated procedure, not anything like heating and letting cool slowly, or quenching, in the other extreme.
Like I side in my OP, I don't know a thing about welding but I'm already seeing that the consensus seems to be cut and re-weld the foot....and if done right it should not be any concern of weakening the stand.
dualindalton is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2014, 08:12 PM   #3917
sailah
Lampin' it
 
sailah's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2005
Location: Turning expensive metal into scrap
Oddometer: 5,262
I made a side stand for my ninja and welded it to the pivot point near the frame. Bastard would damn near fold in half. A guy I know said I would need to reheat to 1100 something degrees or similar to get the temper back. I'm making the next one from steel.
__________________
We're not out here to rough it. We're here to smooth it . Things are rough enough in town.

Nessmuk
sailah is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2014, 08:38 PM   #3918
Luke
GPoET&P
 
Luke's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2004
Location: Idiotville, OR
Oddometer: 4,035
Quote:
Originally Posted by crazybrit View Post
You've not seen the detached garage yet
In spite of having seen it, I'd suggest welding in your garage. Even a light breeze will disturb your shielding gas.
Luke is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2014, 08:34 AM   #3919
GSWayne
Old Guy nOOb
 
GSWayne's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2005
Location: Santa Barbara
Oddometer: 2,922
TIG indoors

I TIG weld indoors and I would not worry about Argon killing you unless you empty the whole bottle in a few minutes and you have a very small room and lay on the floor when working. My larger Argon bottle (about 7" in diameter and 4' tall) is #4 size and holds 125 cubic feet. A 8' x 16' x 8' room is 1024 cubic feet, so if the room is sealed and you empty the entire bottle you have only displaced 12% of the air in the room. Like Luke says if you work outdoors it needs to be very calm or you will lose your shielding gas.

I also weld right next to my computer and Ham radio equipment and the only precaution I take is to turn off the electronics when welding and I have never hurt any of the electronics.

I stink up the shop much more from the lathe and milling machine from hot coolant than I do when TIG welding.
__________________
It isn't the conditions its the decisions

Don't bring a motorcycle to a car fight
GSWayne is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2014, 08:44 AM   #3920
KTM640Dakar OP
Motorsick
 
KTM640Dakar's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2004
Location: Oxbow Lake
Oddometer: 1,990
Quote:
Originally Posted by rustycager View Post
Looks like they might be made by hobart but from the vid that weldmark put up the build quality is very low. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dd_-IjhtduY

Looks like the weldmark is sold under the name real gear mig 140 on craigslist.

I'd spend a little more and grab a hobart 140 or 190. The 140 runs $500 from tractor supply but you can find them on sale and use coupons. The new ones have a cast feed and they moved the reset to the front. They sell a auto arc auto darkening helmet that is surprisingly nice for the price too.

Weld mark is a trade name used by IWDC independent welding distributor council. A group of independent distributors who act as a buying group. The normally private label their stuff. Usually they get the lowest cost bid to fill their orders. They have wire and machines private labeled for them. Lincoln used to supply wire for them to private label but now they buy Chinese wire. At the end of the day you always get what you pay for. Check the warranty terms and be smart.

There is a reason why Lincoln has been around for 117 years.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
__________________
A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed.

It is not the destination, it's the journey.
KTM640Dakar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2014, 09:19 AM   #3921
rustycager
Gnarly Adventurer
 
rustycager's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2013
Location: Hoosier Hills
Oddometer: 375
Quote:
Originally Posted by KTM640Dakar View Post
Weld mark is a trade name used by IWDC independent welding distributor council. A group of independent distributors who act as a buying group. The normally private label their stuff. Usually they get the lowest cost bid to fill their orders. They have wire and machines private labeled for them. Lincoln used to supply wire for them to private label but now they buy Chinese wire. At the end of the day you always get what you pay for. Check the warranty terms and be smart.

There is a reason why Lincoln has been around for 117 years.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I got the "might be made by" from a few post on random forums and a "rep" on I think it was garage journal FWIW.
__________________
2004 DRZs
rustycager is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2014, 09:53 AM   #3922
mark1305
Old Enough To Know Better
 
mark1305's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2005
Location: Merritt Island, FL
Oddometer: 5,870
Noise From Oxy Regulator????

I searched on here and Google and found some ideas/clues, but no firm answers.

A couple of days ago I used my O/A rig for the first time in maybe two years to cut some 3/4" plate. Also the first time I've had to go up to a #1 cutting tip, which is the biggest I should use with my #4 acetylene tank and conveniently the size Victor specs for 3/4 thick stock.

The whole outfit is a Victor set I bought new back around 1999 or 2000? Its single stage regulators and the smaller mixer that takes the 3-101 series tips. Since they flow and cut/weld the same specs as the bigger torches, I figured why have to hold the bigger torch when the smaller one will get my type of projects done just the same. But I'm digressing....

Anyway, tanks are still pretty full - oxy has about 1150 psi left in it. Rolled the cart out, put on the brand new tip, opened and flowed some oxy and set the cutting pressure at the torch. Set up the fuel side, did a quick leak inspection all over, lit up and got to cutting.

Off and on the oxy regulator would start to tweet a noise someone on another forum described as someone letting the air out of balloon while making it squeal out that funny high pitched noise. The needle vibrated when this was happening. Preheat and cutting stayed pretty stable regardless. Needless to say I was a little concerned. I adjusted the oxy pressure a little up and down between 30 and 35 psi, which was the recommended range. Running it closer to about 34 psi minimized the onset of the noise. IIRC, when I had to turn up my preheat oxy a little to keep the cut going it got a little better.

Responses I've found on the 'Net range from "a lot of single stage will do that if the tank is above 1300 psi"; "check for leaks through the diaphragm and/or pressure adjust valve"; "if it isn't leaking and the flame controls are working fine its safe to use"; "replace the hoses (which I'm going to do anyway)"; "have the regulator rebuilt"; to "buy a new one because not many places will repair due to liabilities".

I always run with acetylene tank opened slowly to about 3/4 turn and oxy opened slowly to all the way open. When I'm done I close tanks, back the adjustment screws way out beyond touching the diaphrams, and bleed pressure out of the hoses. I'm going to go out shortly and do a more thorough leak test with soapy water. If no leaks, I'll light it up for a minute and see if it repeats the noise. If it does I'll change down to a #0 or #00 tip and see if it still happens at the lower flow rates.

What say all ye O/A gurus?
__________________
Mark J
Merritt Island, FL

When a person asks you for advice, they don't want advice. They want corroboration.
mark1305 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2014, 09:59 AM   #3923
rustycager
Gnarly Adventurer
 
rustycager's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2013
Location: Hoosier Hills
Oddometer: 375
Quote:
Originally Posted by GSWayne View Post
I TIG weld indoors and I would not worry about Argon killing you unless you empty the whole bottle in a few minutes and you have a very small room and lay on the floor when working. My larger Argon bottle (about 7" in diameter and 4' tall) is #4 size and holds 125 cubic feet. A 8' x 16' x 8' room is 1024 cubic feet, so if the room is sealed and you empty the entire bottle you have only displaced 12% of the air in the room. Like Luke says if you work outdoors it needs to be very calm or you will lose your shielding gas.

I also weld right next to my computer and Ham radio equipment and the only precaution I take is to turn off the electronics when welding and I have never hurt any of the electronics.

I stink up the shop much more from the lathe and milling machine from hot coolant than I do when TIG welding.
I've always been told to take a butane lighter out of your pocket. I've made a few paths to ground so haven't tested it.

I don't know much about tig but does it always use argon like aluminum does for mig?


Anyone ran 95/5 gas on a smaller 140 mig?

For wind turn the gas up. A 120-175 bottle would be smallest i'd get. Atleast here a 80cu bottle and a 325cu bottle isn't much different in fill cost.
__________________
2004 DRZs
rustycager is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2014, 11:35 AM   #3924
tbarstow
Two-wheelin' Fool
 
tbarstow's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2007
Location: Viva Lost Wages!
Oddometer: 3,054
You take the butane lighter out of your pocket because it is a plastic pressure vessel containing a volatile liquid. If you spatter something on the lighter, you could melt it and have little bit of fire on you.


Go poke one with a hot welding rod sometime, or smash one with a hammer......
tbarstow is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2014, 07:16 PM   #3925
CodyY
ADVenture Capitalist
 
CodyY's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2006
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Oddometer: 9,479
Quote:
Originally Posted by mark1305 View Post
I searched on here and Google and found some ideas/clues, but no firm answers.

A couple of days ago I used my O/A rig for the first time in maybe two years to cut some 3/4" plate. Also the first time I've had to go up to a #1 cutting tip, which is the biggest I should use with my #4 acetylene tank and conveniently the size Victor specs for 3/4 thick stock.

The whole outfit is a Victor set I bought new back around 1999 or 2000? Its single stage regulators and the smaller mixer that takes the 3-101 series tips. Since they flow and cut/weld the same specs as the bigger torches, I figured why have to hold the bigger torch when the smaller one will get my type of projects done just the same. But I'm digressing....

Anyway, tanks are still pretty full - oxy has about 1150 psi left in it. Rolled the cart out, put on the brand new tip, opened and flowed some oxy and set the cutting pressure at the torch. Set up the fuel side, did a quick leak inspection all over, lit up and got to cutting.

Off and on the oxy regulator would start to tweet a noise someone on another forum described as someone letting the air out of balloon while making it squeal out that funny high pitched noise. The needle vibrated when this was happening. Preheat and cutting stayed pretty stable regardless. Needless to say I was a little concerned. I adjusted the oxy pressure a little up and down between 30 and 35 psi, which was the recommended range. Running it closer to about 34 psi minimized the onset of the noise. IIRC, when I had to turn up my preheat oxy a little to keep the cut going it got a little better.

Responses I've found on the 'Net range from "a lot of single stage will do that if the tank is above 1300 psi"; "check for leaks through the diaphragm and/or pressure adjust valve"; "if it isn't leaking and the flame controls are working fine its safe to use"; "replace the hoses (which I'm going to do anyway)"; "have the regulator rebuilt"; to "buy a new one because not many places will repair due to liabilities".

I always run with acetylene tank opened slowly to about 3/4 turn and oxy opened slowly to all the way open. When I'm done I close tanks, back the adjustment screws way out beyond touching the diaphrams, and bleed pressure out of the hoses. I'm going to go out shortly and do a more thorough leak test with soapy water. If no leaks, I'll light it up for a minute and see if it repeats the noise. If it does I'll change down to a #0 or #00 tip and see if it still happens at the lower flow rates.

What say all ye O/A gurus?
Old victor regulators. Oxy@ 80-ish psi Acyt @12-15 (depends who jacked with it last) light it up and cut it. Regulators get dropped and banged around, cranked full open every morning and closed at 5pm.

4 hoses spread around a 5000sqft shop. Cant see the bottles or regs from any one of em.
__________________
Not an ACTUAL motorcyclist
CodyY is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2014, 07:19 PM   #3926
CodyY
ADVenture Capitalist
 
CodyY's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2006
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Oddometer: 9,479
Quote:
Originally Posted by trailer Rails View Post
What do you think of not using filler metal on some joints?
Here is a little metal bracket I just TIG welded:







Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




1/4" 304 angle fused to 12ga 316 plate.
__________________
Not an ACTUAL motorcyclist
CodyY is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2014, 10:20 AM   #3927
mark1305
Old Enough To Know Better
 
mark1305's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2005
Location: Merritt Island, FL
Oddometer: 5,870
Quote:
Originally Posted by CodyY View Post
Old victor regulators. Oxy@ 80-ish psi Acyt @12-15 (depends who jacked with it last) light it up and cut it. Regulators get dropped and banged around, cranked full open every morning and closed at 5pm.

4 hoses spread around a 5000sqft shop. Cant see the bottles or regs from any one of em.

Thanks, but that didn't relate to my question. BTW, what are you cutting with pressures that high? 10"-12" thick stock with tips bigger than #6?
__________________
Mark J
Merritt Island, FL

When a person asks you for advice, they don't want advice. They want corroboration.
mark1305 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2014, 03:43 AM   #3928
huskyfrk
n00b
 
Joined: May 2009
Oddometer: 3
cody Y

i see undercut on almost all of your welds. that is never a good weld. several great books out on welding, along with local occupational schools run by local school districts. a inexpensive way to get up to speed. practice makes perfect....
huskyfrk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2014, 03:53 AM   #3929
N-m
Captain 2 Sexy
 
Joined: Jan 2011
Location: Too Far from My Welder and BMW in South TN.
Oddometer: 354
Quote:
Originally Posted by CodyY View Post
Old victor regulators. Oxy@ 80-ish psi Acyt @12-15 (depends who jacked with it last) light it up and cut it. Regulators get dropped and banged around, cranked full open every morning and closed at 5pm.

4 hoses spread around a 5000sqft shop. Cant see the bottles or regs from any one of em.
I will be sure and NOT work in that shop. On acetylene regulator should be turned on no more than 1.5 turns and pressure should be between 5 and 10 psi. 15 could create an explosive situation.

Dropped and banged up regulators should be replaced.

The oxy/acetylene torch is nothing more than a bomb waiting on someone that does not know how to use it.
N-m is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2014, 06:35 AM   #3930
Colorado970
Studly Adventurer
 
Colorado970's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2009
Location: Grand Junction, Co. Born and Raised here.
Oddometer: 901
Quote:
Originally Posted by N-m View Post
I will be sure and NOT work in that shop. On acetylene regulator should be turned on no more than 1.5 turns and pressure should be between 5 and 10 psi. 15 could create an explosive situation.

Dropped and banged up regulators should be replaced.

The oxy/acetylene torch is nothing more than a bomb waiting on someone that does not know how to use it.

Yea, I agree. I run 5 on the acet and about 25 on the oxygen.

Notice the max is 15 for acet.


Erik
__________________
"It is inhumane, in my opinion, to force people who have a genuine medical need for coffee to wait in line behind people who apparently view it as some kind of recreational activity."
Colorado970 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 04:57 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014