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Old 04-27-2014, 07:50 AM   #4021
Benesesso
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For any metal to harden/get stronger, there has to be a hardening mechanism. Pure metals such as Cu have nothing other than work hardening/cold work. The study of some of the other hardening mechanisms is pretty interesting--there are quite a few.
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Old 04-27-2014, 04:14 PM   #4022
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I have only looked into this in very specific instances and the amount of material on the subject makes me realize how much I don't know.

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Old 05-12-2014, 05:34 PM   #4023
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Follow up on Old Post Re O2 Regulator Tweeting

Previous post from KTM640Dakar:

I talked to one of my repair guys today and he said to set the oxygen at 40 psi and see if it vibrates. Sometimes the diaphragm resonates due to harmonics of the gas, hose length, pressure and acts like a cymbal. Most oxygen regulators are only warrantied for a year. You should always turn off the tank first then empty the has out of the torch then back off of the key on the front of the regulator. It sounds like that is what you have been doing so you can expect your regulator to last longer that way. Also slowly open your bottle when you turn your tank on. You can actually create a huge amount of heat if you open up the oxygen regulator with 1800 psi of tank pressure with all the valves closed. That is why they always tell you not to get grease or junk in your regulator fitting that screws into the gas bottle on your oxygen. If you were to get grease inside the threads the pressure of the oxygen rushing into the fitting will ignite the grease.


[QUOTE=KTM640Dakar;23463197]So try 4 or 5 pounds on your fuel regulator and 40psi on your oxy regulator. It may still chirp or it may stay quite. If it chirps have a welding distributor rebuild the diaphragm. If you feel like you can do it your self then go to the Seal Seat website and order regulator parts. The diaphragm is made of rubber and can be replaced.......


Took a while before I got back to it and the specific project cutting on 3/4" plate. Needed to replace the hoses from age and deterioration. Went from 3/16 to 1/4". When blowing out the hoses from the tanks before attaching the torch mixer I set the fuel to 5 psi and the O2 to about 40 or a little more. The O2 regulator blew a steady tweeting note when at full flow - like a student trumpet player .

Finished the hookup and did the leak checks every where. All good. Set up for the cut with 5lbs on the acetylene and right at 40 on the O2. Unlike before, no tweets nor honks. and the cut went well. I think it is at least partly a previously suggested resonance issue that never came to light before until I had to go to such a big tip and high flow rates. Changing hose size up one probably helped too.

This thread is a major help for lots of questions. Thanks all.
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Old 05-12-2014, 06:54 PM   #4024
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[QUOTE=mark1305;24150989]Previous post from KTM640Dakar:

I talked to one of my repair guys today and he said to set the oxygen at 40 psi and see if it vibrates. Sometimes the diaphragm resonates due to harmonics of the gas, hose length, pressure and acts like a cymbal. Most oxygen regulators are only warrantied for a year. You should always turn off the tank first then empty the has out of the torch then back off of the key on the front of the regulator. It sounds like that is what you have been doing so you can expect your regulator to last longer that way. Also slowly open your bottle when you turn your tank on. You can actually create a huge amount of heat if you open up the oxygen regulator with 1800 psi of tank pressure with all the valves closed. That is why they always tell you not to get grease or junk in your regulator fitting that screws into the gas bottle on your oxygen. If you were to get grease inside the threads the pressure of the oxygen rushing into the fitting will ignite the grease.


Quote:
Originally Posted by KTM640Dakar View Post
So try 4 or 5 pounds on your fuel regulator and 40psi on your oxy regulator. It may still chirp or it may stay quite. If it chirps have a welding distributor rebuild the diaphragm. If you feel like you can do it your self then go to the Seal Seat website and order regulator parts. The diaphragm is made of rubber and can be replaced.......


Took a while before I got back to it and the specific project cutting on 3/4" plate. Needed to replace the hoses from age and deterioration. Went from 3/16 to 1/4". When blowing out the hoses from the tanks before attaching the torch mixer I set the fuel to 5 psi and the O2 to about 40 or a little more. The O2 regulator blew a steady tweeting note when at full flow - like a student trumpet player .

Finished the hookup and did the leak checks every where. All good. Set up for the cut with 5lbs on the acetylene and right at 40 on the O2. Unlike before, no tweets nor honks. and the cut went well. I think it is at least partly a previously suggested resonance issue that never came to light before until I had to go to such a big tip and high flow rates. Changing hose size up one probably helped too.

This thread is a major help for lots of questions. Thanks all.

Good to be able to help Mark.


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Old 05-17-2014, 08:52 PM   #4025
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I've never welded but it has ben something I have really wanted to learn. I've been trying to find someone to weld a side stand cam/stop for my Moto Guzzi that has cracked. I can't find anyone who will do it so, dammit, maybe it's time. Here's a few photos:

IMG_5407 by BealeDabbs, on Flickr

IMG_5406 by BealeDabbs, on Flickr

IMG_5408 by BealeDabbs, on Flickr

Is this something that could be welded with a smaller hobbyist rig like you'd get from HD or Lowes? Obviously, i'd work my way up to trying this and not immediately run out and vaporize it the first day I bought the welder. Am I being realistic? Any suggestions?

Thanks, I've been reading this thread for more than a year know and have already learned a lot.
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Old 05-17-2014, 09:00 PM   #4026
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If that's aluminum, yer hosed as far as learning quick enough (and cheap enough) to do it yourself. If it's steel, you have a chance. I learned with an oxy/acet torch and that would be an easy project (if steel).
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Old 05-17-2014, 09:15 PM   #4027
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
If that's aluminum, yer hosed as far as learning quick enough (and cheap enough) to do it yourself. If it's steel, you have a chance. I learned with an oxy/acet torch and that would be an easy project (if steel).
I don't think it's aluminum. That would be a lot to ask of an aluminum plate since the weight of the bike is held within that die cut hole.

EDIT: I just performed an exhaustive metallurgical survey upon said part (WHERE'S MY MAGNET?). Aluminum, it ain't.
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Old 05-18-2014, 04:34 AM   #4028
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Yes it can be done by you with some learning.

The groove has to be made like a V on each side. Weld one side and then grind the other side until you get to your weld and weld that side. Its a full penetration weld.

Because its so small, it may be easier to torch weld or Tig weld than stick or MIG. It has to be done right because it broke when it was new. Anything less of a weld will not hold.

Or you can just send it to me, I will do it and send it back.
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Old 05-18-2014, 02:47 PM   #4029
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"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 05-18-2014, 02:56 PM   #4030
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Yes it can be done by you with some learning.

The groove has to be made like a V on each side. Weld one side and then grind the other side until you get to your weld and weld that side. Its a full penetration weld.

Because its so small, it may be easier to torch weld or Tig weld than stick or MIG. It has to be done right because it broke when it was new. Anything less of a weld will not hold.

Or you can just send it to me, I will do it and send it back.
David
Thanks David, much appreciated. I bailed on welding it myself and ordered the part. I realized that welding is a gadget heavy endeavor that can be a bottomless pit that will eat all of my money like photography or golf. I'm going to jump into slowly and not on something that I actually need fixed, at least not to start. I need to go back and re-read this thread and figure out what my first welder purchase should be for mostly motorcycle related stuff.
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Old 05-19-2014, 09:06 AM   #4031
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Can any of you recommend a decent TIG machine? Light duty. Used is ok. Recommendations on a new machine would be welcome too.
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Old 05-19-2014, 09:20 AM   #4032
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chisenhallw View Post
Can any of you recommend a decent TIG machine? Light duty. Used is ok. Recommendations on a new machine would be welcome too.
do you need to do aluminum?

I have a miller maxstar with tig set up works great on steel but being DC no aluminum.

it is a stick as well also

http://www.millerwelds.com/om/o2224f_mil.pdf

look at Everlast too they came on the market after I got mine. reviews are a mixed bag though.

tommu56 screwed with this post 05-19-2014 at 09:30 AM
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Old 05-19-2014, 09:33 AM   #4033
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chisenhallw View Post
Can any of you recommend a decent TIG machine? Light duty. Used is ok. Recommendations on a new machine would be welcome too.
AC/DC or just DC?
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Old 05-19-2014, 09:57 AM   #4034
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Thanks for the replies, gentlemen. This will be my practice machine. I do need to practice aluminum.
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Old 05-19-2014, 10:01 AM   #4035
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I think that anyone who wants to learn welding, will eventually want to weld aluminum. It's a natural progression, especially for riders, as most bikes have alum parts somewhere.

AC/DC is then mandatory but then the problem becomes cost, almost double. When they work, Everlast has a lot of bang for the buck (features), but their 'as delivered' reputation isn't very comforting.

Thermal Arc has a pretty good reputation, good features and one of the guys here uses one daily.

I bought an expensive TIG 20 years ago because I knew up front that I wanted to learn alum. The new inverter based welders have features available that make mine look like a dinosaur and it's just as heavy as one.

fwiw: it never paid for itself in dollars, but the entertainment it brought is priceless. I've never been sorry, it was an investment, not an expense.
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