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Old 01-16-2009, 04:14 PM   #751
gsweave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WIsixfitty
^^^^^^
ummm, forgive my ignorance, but is that rod above for stick welding?

:)

Yep stick.
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Old 01-17-2009, 12:55 AM   #752
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gsweave
Yep stick.
OK, that makes sense then.


All of my reply suggestions were using tig.
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Old 01-17-2009, 06:52 AM   #753
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WIsixfitty
assuming a .125" wall thickness I agree with gsweave on amperage. Just don't camp out in one area too long.

I dunno but using a 316 rod seems like a reasonable idea too. I do not know anything about what rod gsweave recommended. 308L will also work just fine.

In terms of host material I guess if ya got 316 laying around, use it, but 304 is a much nicer/cost effective altrenative.

I would also chamfer or bevel B and C if you will be grinding weld smooth.

Just fuse (no filler) D.

Put a nice weave/fillet in A.

Once welded, take a dead blow hammer to true up. Stanley's steel like to move alot.



I am curious why you would miter the corners rather than cope them? Isn't a coping a stronger joint?
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Old 01-17-2009, 10:03 AM   #754
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bosco
I am curious why you would miter the corners rather than cope them? Isn't a coping a stronger joint?

How do you cope angle "iron"? Notch out one horizontal flat and the other vertical flat?

I only cope when using a round or enclosed tube when it has to join up other than a butt joint.

Miter seems the easiest with imo more than enough strength for the application.
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Old 01-17-2009, 10:30 AM   #755
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WIsixfitty
OK, that makes sense then.


All of my reply suggestions were using tig.

Few of us are blessed with a buzz box at home let alone a TIG.


I figured he has a AC buzz box avail.

Here is a sample piece that I spent 5 min on, just butt welded.

2100 Blue Max rod at 120 amps 304L work piece. No clean up or dressing aside from slag chipping.

I should have moved just a bit faster.




See how flat the 2100 lays. small amount of grinding to finish off.
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Old 01-17-2009, 10:34 AM   #756
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WIsixfitty
How do you cope angle "iron"? Notch out one horizontal flat and the other vertical flat?

I only cope when using a round or enclosed tube when it has to join up other than a butt joint.

Miter seems the easiest with imo more than enough strength for the application.
I tried to find an image w/out luck. Basically you leave one piece intact and cut the other to fit so that coner to corner weld includes both the corner and the flange. (okay some my discription sucks, too ). Anyway, you're probabley right in that a miter is strong enough and certainly easier.
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Old 01-17-2009, 10:55 AM   #757
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bosco
I tried to find an image w/out luck. Basically you leave one piece intact and cut the other to fit so that coner to corner weld includes both the corner and the flange. (okay some my discription sucks, too ). Anyway, you're probabley right in that a miter is strong enough and certainly easier.

We normally cope the corners. But we are building for ease and speed, strength. Notch one flat, butt other two flanges.

Mitered is prettier
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Old 01-17-2009, 11:36 AM   #758
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gsweave
Few of us are blessed with a buzz box at home let alone a TIG.


I figured he has a AC buzz box avail.

Here is a sample piece that I spent 5 min on, just butt welded.

2100 Blue Max rod at 120 amps 304L work piece. No clean up or dressing aside from slag chipping.

I should have moved just a bit faster.




See how flat the 2100 lays. small amount of grinding to finish off.

That's pretty damn nice for a stick. I've done almost zero "dick" (stick) welding. Mine would not look like that. However with a tig...

With .125 wall and tig I'd back the amperage down a bit. 90 - 100 should more than sufficient .
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Old 01-17-2009, 11:56 AM   #759
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WIsixfitty
That's pretty damn nice for a stick. I've done almost zero "dick" (stick) welding. Mine would not look like that. However with a tig...

It's not often that I can take the workpiece to our TIG or MIG setups.

So we take the DC stick welders to the workpiece
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Old 01-18-2009, 10:42 PM   #760
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What stick do you use to weld copper pipes?

I found a site online that says to use 1851 in DC EP only..
I can't find any other info on this mysterius 1851 rod.
Also, I don't have a DC welder, but the same site also says to only use DC only for 6013 and 7014, which works just fine on my AC welder.

I can't find any other info on stick welding copper. Why is this? Is it because brazing is the preferred method?
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Old 01-30-2009, 05:27 PM   #761
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skippii
What stick do you use to weld copper pipes?

I found a site online that says to use 1851 in DC EP only..
I can't find any other info on this mysterius 1851 rod.
Also, I don't have a DC welder, but the same site also says to only use DC only for 6013 and 7014, which works just fine on my AC welder.

I can't find any other info on stick welding copper. Why is this? Is it because brazing is the preferred method?
Why arc weld? Good question. I gas weld or braze copper for refrigeration. Seems to be very reliable but there is some newer soldering techniques that are working too.
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Old 01-30-2009, 09:16 PM   #762
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skippii
What stick do you use to weld copper pipes?

I found a site online that says to use 1851 in DC EP only..
I can't find any other info on this mysterius 1851 rod.
Also, I don't have a DC welder, but the same site also says to only use DC only for 6013 and 7014, which works just fine on my AC welder.

I can't find any other info on stick welding copper. Why is this? Is it because brazing is the preferred method?
It can be done but when welding copper as it solidifies it becomes very brittle and cracks
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Old 01-31-2009, 01:56 AM   #763
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KTM640Dakar
There are alot of off shore companies that make welders for company's who private label them. Most of your big Tool catalogs have cheap welders in them and they are usually not very good. Your Chicago Electric is one example. The problem you then have is the catalog companies are always shopping to find a manufacturer who is willing to make an even cheaper machine so they change suppliers and drop the spare parts. Then you are stuck with a welder that you can't find parts for and you are screwed.

I would search the internet for Chicago Electric and see if you can find a new spool gun.

Or try this:

http://www.lincolnelectric.com/products/intros
/Powermig_140_180.asp
Believe it or not, Harbor Freight actually supports parts for their tools,
( chicago electric is their housebrand)
Give them a shot before throwing in the towel. Fix it and buy a heavier duty, better backed welder such as the Lincoln or a Miller. Yes I know how old this post was, but thought it might come in handy for someone else.
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Old 02-01-2009, 08:10 PM   #764
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Okay yeah but you guys weld and I just don't know

I found these welding rod cases that are orange and I just don't know what the outside measurements of these cylinders are?
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...00100600&aff=Y

I got them, 4 inches by 14 long
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Old 02-03-2009, 03:00 PM   #765
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grizzzly
It can be done but when welding copper as it solidifies it becomes very brittle and cracks
Cool, thanks.
Though now I'm wondering why on earth I was asking about welding copper.
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