Ask your WELDING questions here.

[Poolside]

Originally Posted by Skippii

Okay, so I'm trying to weld thin mild sheet metal to thick stainless tubing using an oxy-propane torch with coathangers as the filler rod.

...it's not working.

try safety wire it's more pure

[gsweave]

Originally Posted by Skippii

Okay, so I'm trying to weld thin mild sheet metal to thick stainless tubing using an oxy-propane torch with coathangers as the filler rod.

...it's not working.

Your kidding? What is the chemical compisition of said coat hanger?

They aren't made in China are they???

[WIsixfitty]

Originally Posted by Skippii

Okay, so I'm trying to weld thin mild sheet metal to thick stainless tubing using an oxy-propane torch with coathangers as the filler rod.

...it's not working.

Dip your rod in horseradish sauce. I heard that works great as a flux.

[mark1305]

Seriously, though... You may find stainless pretty difficult to weld with any kind of gas flame. I found when trying to heat it for bending using oxy acetylene that as it starts to glow its carbon migrates up to the surface and the whole piece weakens and embrittles all at the same time.

On the other hand, MIG welding stainless, even with C25 gas instead of pure argon is a breeze because the weld is completed before the composition of the steel is compromised. I have a set of stainless headers laying around that someone hacked and MIG welded with mild steel filler wire that are structurally sound.

So I'd guess that your process is the culprit more than anything else.

[grizzzly]

Originally Posted by Skippii

Okay, so I'm trying to weld thin mild sheet metal to thick stainless tubing using an oxy-propane torch with coathangers as the filler rod.

...it's not working.

The other thing you could try is flood the area behind the sheet metal with the oxy propane than ignite it. On the hope that you will explosively fuse the two metals

[Skippii]

Originally Posted by mark1305

Seriously, though... You may find stainless pretty difficult to weld with any kind of gas flame. I found when trying to heat it for bending using oxy acetylene that as it starts to glow its carbon migrates up to the surface and the whole piece weakens and embrittles all at the same time.

On the other hand, MIG welding stainless, even with C25 gas instead of pure argon is a breeze because the weld is completed before the composition of the steel is compromised. I have a set of stainless headers laying around that someone hacked and MIG welded with mild steel filler wire that are structurally sound.

So I'd guess that your process is the culprit more than anything else.

I think you're right.

My makeshift, temp repair: cut several sheets of aluminum flashing (like really thick kitchen foil, or really thin sheet metal), lay it over the problem area, and blast with the rosebud torch until it melts and shapes perfectly over the area. Then I wrapped up the whole thing in Glavanized wire to hold it together, and slapped a lot of exhaust sealant over the whole thing.
Got me to work, at least.

[gsweave]

Originally Posted by Skippii

I think you're right.

My makeshift, temp repair: cut several sheets of aluminum flashing (like really thick kitchen foil, or really thin sheet metal), lay it over the problem area, and blast with the rosebud torch until it melts and shapes perfectly over the area. Then I wrapped up the whole thing in Glavanized wire to hold it together, and slapped a lot of exhaust sealant over the whole thing.
Got me to work, at least.

Skippii,

PM me your address.

You have a stick welder don't you???

I have some rods I want to mail to you for stainless apps.

Check em out you won't be disappointed.

[Tim-Rodriguez]

Right so I go to a motorcycle show/market place last year and see this Sweedish guy repairing and joining aluminium using a pathetic torch and his magical solder




I was so impressed I decide to buy a meter of the stuff...

Time went by and havent used it until now when I find a crack 1/4 of the way round the head tube of my bicycle (Trials Bike)

I manage to find the video of the same stuff on youtube but I dont know what is its downsides.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fC9d1...eature=related

Anyone had any experience with this stuff?

[Skippii]

Yep.
It's called Zinc.

It's sold under brands like Alumiweld, Duraweld, and others.
I have a few rods. It doesn't seem to work very well.

[grizzzly]

The key word here is solder, it is basically hot glue think it works about as well as jb weld but it may contaminate the surface so that it cant be welded later.

[Gumbydave]

Are there any tricks to succesful welds on thinner material with stick ?

what are the limitations ?

I just picked up a nice nearly new tombstone and having fun pushing a puddle but it would be nice to have a mig also and then I wouldn't be asking this question

Most of my experience welding has been limited to stick on heavy equipment, hardfacing, shoring , 3/8" or larger plate, full penetration and multi pass groove welds or fillet with stick on mild steel. I have also done hundreds of feet of vertical stick J welds to be proud of. I have used some hi power industrial mig on thick material also.
But I don't know how to weld beyond that. For structural life threatening stuff I have been having a pro do it .

[Strong Bad]

Originally Posted by grizzzly

The key word here is solder, it is basically hot glue think it works about as well as jb weld but it may contaminate the surface so that it cant be welded later.

Dear Griz,

Please get rid of that little strange colored font, its too hard for this old welder's eyes to see.

[grizzzly]

Originally Posted by Strong Bad

Dear Griz,

Please get rid of that little strange colored font, its too hard for this old welder's eyes to see.

why do you think i use it?

[KTM640Dakar]

Originally Posted by Tslapper

So I'm practicing by running beads down a length of stainless exhaust of a WR250 aftermarket pipe. I'm using 3/32 309 because that's what I have. 2% thorium tungsten and also 3/32. I've set the max heat to be 140 and have a foot pedal. Starting the arc and increasing heat until I get the right sized puddle. I adjust heat as I go. I'm flowing 15cfh argon.

My welds are concave and over penetrating. Maybe it's technique but I've tried a couple different things with the same result. If I go as cold as possible, I can't get a good puddle and the beads are inconsistent.

I'm having trouble finding that middle ground. Should I go down to 1/16 and run it again?

I know you mentioned an argon purge for pipe. Is that absolutely necessary with thin stuff like this? The pieces are small and that will be hard to do.

Turn your machine down with the foot petal using a max of 120 Amps when fully depressed.,

Smaller rod = smaller welds.

Sharp Tungsten = smaller welds.

Get comfortable, setup the part so you can focus on it rather than your balance.

Tack it first, and get it straight and the metal touching along the entire weld length.

If you have a pulse capability on your TIG welder use it. It can help you time your addition of filler rod and make your welds look even.

[Gumbydave]

Originally Posted by Gumbydave

Are there any tricks to succesful welds on thinner material with stick ?

what are the limitations ?

I just picked up a nice nearly new tombstone and having fun pushing a puddle but it would be nice to have a mig also and then I wouldn't be asking this question

Most of my experience welding has been limited to stick on heavy equipment, hardfacing, shoring , 3/8" or larger plate, full penetration and multi pass groove welds or fillet with stick on mild steel. I have also done hundreds of feet of vertical stick J welds to be proud of. I have used some hi power industrial mig on thick material also.
But I don't know how to weld beyond that. For structural life threatening stuff I have been having a pro do it .

Ok either stupid question or Y'all got nuthin" ......
I guess its just the usual turn it down small rod and keep it clean...
guess I'm on my own as usual. looks like everyone here is into the mig/tig "glue gun"

SEE YA