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Old 05-13-2009, 10:01 PM   #976
tundrawolf
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Location: Lucerne Valley, California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zecatfish
Thanks to both of you.
You gave me something new to try.
I was going to start hacking on an old XT550 gas tank I got. Its been empty for years and bone dry inside so theres no chance of going BOOM and knocking me across the shop.
I got an old XS750 fuel tank thats going to donate its knee scallops to the cause too. I just need to cut up some metal and put it back together.
A great place to start! Give your XT550 an extra 3 gallons, or subtract a gallon or two, isn't it great!

You know, after I buy this dented up tank, pop the dents out, cut it in half and weld in extensions, I can do the same thing to my stock tank when I am done and sell it for $700!

tundrawolf screwed with this post 05-13-2009 at 10:08 PM
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Old 05-13-2009, 10:37 PM   #977
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MichBiker
raise of hands who is a real welder here given advise. i'm not but i get it done for what i do, i'm not makin frames.

Real welder giving advice??? A real welder is not afraid to tell you what has worked or him in the past, or what he typically or currently uses/does to make it happen for him. He is also willing to learn from others as to what works for them. There is much more to "welding" welding than melting two pieces of metal together. Welding is as much art as it is science and technique. I suppose you could count the number of certifications he has tested for, but that doesn't mean squat in the real world.

What was the question again??
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Old 05-14-2009, 05:11 AM   #978
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I have a real welder, several, big Lincoln 450 ac/dc hi freq GTAW adapter, Miller xp130 mig, and oxy/acetylene rig. Self taught using the old school welders bible, and really big on making welds fail for stress analysis.

I'll gladly give advice or aim someone to one of the experts here. There's a couple folks here who likely get welds x-rayed and logged, that's serious stuff.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MichBiker
raise of hands who is a real welder here given advise. i'm not but i get it done for what i do, i'm not makin frames.

-J
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Old 05-14-2009, 03:52 PM   #979
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I weld for a living and as a hobby.

I'm not at all schooled as I know almost no weld symbols, and was certified in stainless only through my previous employer for our specific needs. Whcih was sanitary USDA and structural stainless mig and tig welding.

I know very little about thick heavy shit.

It's pretty much now all gage material with most of that related to internal combustion engine exhaust.
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Old 05-14-2009, 11:27 PM   #980
tundrawolf
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WIsixfitty
I weld for a living and as a hobby.

I'm not at all schooled as I know almost no weld symbols, and was certified in stainless only through my previous employer for our specific needs. Whcih was sanitary USDA and structural stainless mig and tig welding.

I know very little about thick heavy shit.

It's pretty much now all gage material with most of that related to internal combustion engine exhaust.
That's cool. I wish I had better thin metal skills. Thick heavy metal welding is actually very easy, i bet you'd do very well with it. In my opinion, the art is with very thin stuff, the margin for error is very small.
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Old 05-15-2009, 04:33 PM   #981
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Anyone out there(well, you know where you are! )had experience with Kemppi TIG? I'm close to getting a AC/DC machine and the specifications on the Kemppi look very good. Duty cycle is 100% at 170amps for a 230 amp, single phase inverter, which is better and cheaper than any other device here.... Australia, that is.
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Old 05-15-2009, 05:44 PM   #982
LoJack
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MichBiker
raise of hands who is a real welder here given advise. i'm not but i get it done for what i do, i'm not makin frames.
I make frames, but the other kind:







This one is a little one off... It's actually going to be about a foot and a half longer. It's based on the Surly Bikes Big Dummy and Pugsley. Most of the bikes I make are pretty normal compared to this...

Lojack
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Old 05-15-2009, 07:21 PM   #983
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tundrawolf
Don't be silly!

I do what everyone else does, I take them into a cleanroom where there is as much vacuum as inside the bulb, drill a small hole in the glass, and put nanites into the bulb to inspect, and possibly repair. If the nanites cannot repair the bulb, I seal up the hole and throw it away.
so how long have you been with us here is socorro???
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Old 05-15-2009, 07:44 PM   #984
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Strong Bad
Real welder giving advice??? A real welder is not afraid to tell you what has worked or him in the past, or what he typically or currently uses/does to make it happen for him. He is also willing to learn from others as to what works for them. There is much more to "welding" welding than melting two pieces of metal together. Welding is as much art as it is science and technique. I suppose you could count the number of certifications he has tested for, but that doesn't mean squat in the real world.

What was the question again??
Couldn’t said it better

Myself I am a fabricator, I am also a pyromaniac I love fire explosions and the like, I also like a challenge.

BTW my welding certs are everything from pressure vessel to aerospace. but I don’t have anything structural. That mean I am not a real welder
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Old 05-15-2009, 10:21 PM   #985
tundrawolf
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grizzzly
Couldn’t said it better

Myself I am a fabricator, I am also a pyromaniac I love fire explosions and the like, I also like a challenge.

BTW my welding certs are everything from pressure vessel to aerospace. but I don’t have anything structural. That mean I am not a real welder
IMO if you can join any two metals together with any of the welding processes you are a welder.

I was practicing my sheetmetal butt welds tonight and man... The ONE thing in college I could never get was the keyhole weld. It is so frustrating. For my tank, I am going to just make the sheetmetal larger than the hole in the tank, and weld like that. I'll sand it down and use bondo to shape the tank. Honestly, I have very little experience with sheetmetal.
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Old 05-16-2009, 08:54 AM   #986
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tundrawolf
The ONE thing in college I could never get was the keyhole weld. It is so frustrating.
Aluminum? Using a fixture with a purge on the backside helps. The fixture keeps the heat fairly even all the way down the weld. When welding with a keyhole I think of it as adding rod behind the tungsten instead of under or just in front of it. Get your hood down close so you can see whats happening all around the cup.
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Old 05-16-2009, 10:54 PM   #987
tundrawolf
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Sadly, steel is a problem. I really wish I would have tried harder when I was in college for it.
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Old 05-17-2009, 10:04 AM   #988
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tundrawolf
Sadly, steel is a problem. I really wish I would have tried harder when I was in college for it.
Most of the time you don't really need to keyhole steel. You can get good 100 to 110% penetration without it on steel and stainless, again even a little purge on the backside really helps when going for maximum penetration.
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Old 05-17-2009, 10:05 AM   #989
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tundrawolf
Sadly, steel is a problem. I really wish I would have tried harder when I was in college for it.
Most of the time you don't really need to keyhole steel, in fact I can say I almost never have. You can get good 100 to 110% penetration without it on steel and stainless, again even a little purge on the backside really helps when going for maximum penetration.
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Old 05-18-2009, 09:03 PM   #990
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Quote:
Originally Posted by studley
Ok so I guess this is a welder question.

Why, when I start an arc with the Miller 200syncro. does my radio shut off. Not only does it shut off it also loses all the presets and the time resets itself.

The welder is grounded to the work, it happens anywhere in the shop and only the tig not the mig.

Any ideas???
The high frequency in the TIG welder is causing your electronics to freak out. You need to put an earth ground on the welder. You can drive a copper rod into the ground and connect it to the main power box that the ground of your welder is on. This will keep the high frequency of your Miller to not bleed off and screw up sensitive electronics.
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