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Old 05-18-2009, 09:46 PM   #991
CR_TurboGuy
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Not strictly a welding question, but deals with molten metal:

Is it possible to plasma cut magnesium?


--JOsh
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Old 05-18-2009, 10:58 PM   #992
tundrawolf
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CR_TurboGuy
Not strictly a welding question, but deals with molten metal:

Is it possible to plasma cut magnesium?


--JOsh
If you like uncontrollable fires

I remember a fireman telling me why magnesium rims aren't so common anymore:

In an accident, when the rims caught fire, inexperienced firemen would hose the vehicle down, and the rims would burn so hot, it'd actually use the water as a catalyst and burn HOTTER and more violent!
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Old 05-19-2009, 08:10 AM   #993
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Thanks! I will kick some of the crap out of the way and check on the power box. This building was built in 1947 so anything is possible. I think the box is grounded to a water pipe which is grounded to the other metal pipe etc etc....

I will check it out today.

EDIT..

Much later....

Oh Right!!! No more dropped radio. KTM640, you called it dead on. Cleaned all connections, added a loop to ground with a stake. No more problem. Thank you.



Quote:
Originally Posted by KTM640Dakar
You need to put an earth ground on the welder. You can drive a copper rod into the ground and connect it to the main power box that the ground of your welder is on.
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studley screwed with this post 05-19-2009 at 06:31 PM
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Old 05-19-2009, 08:30 AM   #994
CR_TurboGuy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tundrawolf
If you like uncontrollable fires

I remember a fireman telling me why magnesium rims aren't so common anymore:

In an accident, when the rims caught fire, inexperienced firemen would hose the vehicle down, and the rims would burn so hot, it'd actually use the water as a catalyst and burn HOTTER and more violent!
Oh, I'm quite familiar with what happens when you add water to already burning magnesium. A neighbor that works in the industrial laundry machine business who gets old magnesium dryer parts introduced me to that phenomenon at a campfire. I've actually got a bunch of magnesium electronics cases from work that were being thrown out, so I snagged them for campfire fun. Just wondering how to cut them into smaller, more manageable pieces. Guess I'll have to break out the portaband & give it a go.

--JOsh
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Old 05-20-2009, 11:14 AM   #995
ghostridernv
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Brazing and Heat Treating

Just wanted to let you FF's know I manage a heat treating and brazing facility in northern nevada. Since this is related to welding, I thought I'd metion it here. As to not hijack this thread, feel free to PM me if you need answers to any heat treating or brazing questions. A free service to all advrider members (will be checking for the secret handshake at the door).
Regards,
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Old 05-20-2009, 07:38 PM   #996
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LoJack
I make frames, but the other kind:







This one is a little one off... It's actually going to be about a foot and a half longer. It's based on the Surly Bikes Big Dummy and Pugsley. Most of the bikes I make are pretty normal compared to this...

Lojack

Noice.

Are building frames in Madison? Or Waterford or Watertown?
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Old 05-22-2009, 10:31 PM   #997
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Millermatic 35 ?

I have a Millermatic 35 made in 1989. I have been thinking about buying a new Miller 212, would this be a good replacement? My 35 works good with .035 wire but when I try .023 the wire will not feed right, I have the right drive wheel and tip for .023 but it still will not feed smooth. My dealer thinks I need to replace my gun liner does this sound right? My 35 has low hours and is in good shape, but is 20 years old. I am not sure if I should buy a new miller 212 or keep replacing parts on mine.
This is the only picture I have of it right now.
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Old 05-22-2009, 10:36 PM   #998
KTM640Dakar OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghostridernv
Just wanted to let you FF's know I manage a heat treating and brazing facility in northern nevada. Since this is related to welding, I thought I'd metion it here. As to not hijack this thread, feel free to PM me if you need answers to any heat treating or brazing questions. A free service to all advrider members (will be checking for the secret handshake at the door).
Regards,
Ghost
Thanks Ghost, that's great.
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Old 05-22-2009, 10:42 PM   #999
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toyanvil
I have a Millermatic 35 made in 1989. I have been thinking about buying a new Miller 212, would this be a good replacement? My 35 works good with .035 wire but when I try .023 the wire will not feed right, I have the right drive wheel and tip for .023 but it still will not feed smooth. My dealer thinks I need to replace my gun liner does this sound right? My 35 has low hours and is in good shape, but is 20 years old. I am not sure if I should buy a new miller 212 or keep replacing parts on mine.
This is the only picture I have of it right now.
That old Miller of yours is a soild machine, better than the new 212. It was made before ITW bought miller and screwed them up.

Get yourself a new gun liner and a roll of .030 L-56. The .023 wires don't feed through a 15 foot long gun very well.
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Old 05-22-2009, 10:50 PM   #1000
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That make sense. How thin can I weld with .030?
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Old 05-23-2009, 12:09 AM   #1001
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What a great thread.

I was a weldor (not a welder) for about three years in my youth. Eventually I got my 3G plate cert. and then pipe cert 6g. Tig was my favorite particularly aluminum but I also liked using 7/8 electrode stick (7018) on heavy equipment repair, usually loader blades or buckets. Running uphill was really challenging for me but there was nothing like a 10 foot multi pass horizontal bead that curled the flux up by itself every 6 or 7 inches.

I worked in a small shop repairing and fabricating everything from cast aluminum lawn mower decks, bowling pin re-setters, hand rail, truck frames, semi-booms, motorcycle frames, Cadillac seat frames, aluminum BMW oilpans (lots of those), gas tanks, bed frames, dining room tables, magnesium shuttle parts (I helped set up the jig), roller coasters, engine blocks, cast manifolds, radiators, flow meters, tank farms (50K gallon gasoline tanks) trains, slabs of 2" and 3" plate in a hospital MRI lab, after first constructing the room's ability to hold it... and I could go on and on.

There is something about the arc and manipulatiion of a molten pool of metal that is intoxicating to me. I learned more in those three years than in all of my higher education, and loved every minute of it.

I gained a skill that allowed me to discover an art. For me, welding could not be a career, but it will never really leave me, I'm hooked. I actually endued up enjoying so much more than just the puddle; the layout design, material prep, finish etc. It's just a real satisfying endeavor.

Props to the OP for starting this and for providing me with a lot of reading; most of which I answered in my head before reading the response...

Of all the advrider threads I have enjoyed this one is way up there.

Thanx ....

Oh and I remember working with one old timer who just did stainless pipe he said to me once; there are no stupid or old weldors, they either get killed or if they aren't stupid they retire before they get killed. Most of his career was spent repairing or building oil pipeline. He showed me a picture of his welding truck (Lincoln DC welder) suspended level over and alongside a cliff (the whole truck was hoisted by a crane) 2 feet from a broken pipe. He was sitting on the edge of the truck with a stinger in one hand and a cigarette in the other, smiling, and not dead yet.



Sorry no question... well maybe one; how old are you?


.
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Old 05-23-2009, 08:13 PM   #1002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toyanvil
That make sense. How thin can I weld with .030?
In the small amount of MIG knowledge I've absorbed since I started only about 11 years ago as a home shop weldor, .030 and .035 wire should let you weld thinner stuff than .023. At least at lower amperages (below spray transfer and you'll be way lower for thin stuff, naturally) .023 gives better penetration - something not that good for thin stuff.

I had an old hotrod project for a few years and spent a lot of time shaping and welding in patch panels. Just as I had read about, the thicker .035 wire was easier to use than the thin wire. So I started using .035 for thin stuff and .023 for thicker stuff and the very few multipass jobs.
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Old 05-26-2009, 04:26 PM   #1003
CR_TurboGuy
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I've got a Lincoln Pro-Mig 175, the back label has these two sets of numbers:
U1050810644
11009

My question - is there a spool gun available for welding aluminium for this welder? Also, this model has the a,b,c,d,e current settings. Could I order an adjustable switch to replace the existing switch & get variable current?

--JOsh
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Old 05-26-2009, 10:44 PM   #1004
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Sorry I am too lazy to read all the posts and search isn't too helpful....

I want to buy a 110v wire feed welder to practice welding. My only welding experience was going blind trying to stick weld. My welding will be 1/4 inch mild steel or thinner.

Which model welder do you rec.? The cheaper the better.

Don
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Old 05-27-2009, 09:57 AM   #1005
LoJack
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WIsixfitty
Noice.

Are building frames in Madison? Or Waterford or Watertown?
Madison. www.banjobicycles.com
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