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Old 10-20-2009, 06:38 PM   #1141
Tslapper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KTM640Dakar
Most of the cheap TIG welders have air cooled torches which are their weakness.

No matter what the duty cycle of your TIG welder is, if you are using a TIG torch with a lower duty cycle then the torch will get too hot before the welder will. So you are limited by the duty cycle of your torch.

That is why most cheap TIG welding machines have an aircooled torches. If the torch was watercooled then you need a circulator for the water and the cost goes up.

Buy a Lincoln Precision TIG 225. It will accomplish 99% of what a home hobby welder needs.
I bought one of those last year and I'm getting done what I want to do.
Great machine!
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Old 10-28-2009, 05:36 PM   #1142
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Thumb Thank You.

I wanted to say thank you for the ADVice you all gave me on welding sheet metal. The torch size etc.

I took my old XT gas tank and cut it up today to make it wider and a little taller for increased capacity. How much? I 'm adding 6" to the width and 2" to the height. I'm guessing that it is going to be around 2 1/2 gallons as a rough estimate. For a total of about 6 gallons without adversely affecting anything.

I'm gas welding the sheet metal with 1/16" rod and a 0 sized tip. It's fairly easy is working nicely. I'm cutting up an old Nissan hood for the sheet metal to work with.

Thanks again, it may not be pretty but it should be functional.
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Old 10-28-2009, 05:51 PM   #1143
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zecatfish
I wanted to say thank you for the ADVice you all gave me on welding sheet metal. The torch size etc.

I took my old XT gas tank and cut it up today to make it wider and a little taller for increased capacity. How much? I 'm adding 6" to the width and 2" to the height. I'm guessing that it is going to be around 2 1/2 gallons as a rough estimate. For a total of about 6 gallons without adversely affecting anything.

I'm gas welding the sheet metal with 1/16" rod and a 0 sized tip. It's fairly easy is working nicely. I'm cutting up an old Nissan hood for the sheet metal to work with.

Thanks again, it may not be pretty but it should be functional.

pics please
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Old 10-28-2009, 08:34 PM   #1144
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Quote:
Originally Posted by artk
pics please

Ummm, NO,
Its not pretty but its coming together, I just started on it today. Might end up looking like Frankenstiens Monster.
Rat bike looking creation at the least. Using the sawzall to cut sheet metal. I love that thing.

I'm still making holes if I'm not careful but they're easier to fill back in with a gas rig, and you work slow with very low heat you can see the metal start to almost boil and work the metal where you need it. A lot easier than my stick welder. I've never been able to weld sheet metal with it.
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Old 10-29-2009, 03:29 PM   #1145
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Pictures... The MAD MAX tank Conversion.

From XT-Morph


I'll post the rest someplace relevant, or follow the link and browse them there.
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Old 11-10-2009, 12:56 AM   #1146
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Until now I've been using 3 phase TIG inverters and rectifiers, with which, I've been using my name brand but modestly priced auto darkening helmet with a 2.5 magnifier fitted and it works perfectly. BUT, recently I purchased a pricey single phase TIG inverter and the arc from this machine seems much brighter, so much so that I can hardly see what I'm doing. I changed the helmet shade darkening from 11 to 13 and that didn't help. What is going on?
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Old 11-11-2009, 08:41 PM   #1147
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mysterio
Until now I've been using 3 phase TIG inverters and rectifiers, with which, I've been using my name brand but modestly priced auto darkening helmet with a 2.5 magnifier fitted and it works perfectly. BUT, recently I purchased a pricey single phase TIG inverter and the arc from this machine seems much brighter, so much so that I can hardly see what I'm doing. I changed the helmet shade darkening from 11 to 13 and that didn't help. What is going on?
I might be able to help you with this...

Try a single-shade low cost helmet with a 13 level shade. You will be surprised-that you will be able to see your work.

My friends' Harbor-Freight auto darkener was so bad I couldn't see *anything*. I ended up using a super cheap manual helmet with a 13 shade, and was able to see *everything*. It's just something about them. I am not sure if a more expensive auto darkener would solve the problem, or if maybe it was just a bad unit, but it was garbage. I couldn't see anything with it.
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Old 11-13-2009, 05:12 AM   #1148
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Do you think this machine will be a good choice for my stainless/aluminum/thin steel bike projects? All I have now is a Lincoln 225 stick welder. . ...Which brings up another question. Why a place for two cylinders? Are they both argon, one for a backup? Or are there two types of gas that can be used. Sorry to be ignorant. http://store.cyberweld.com/mil210witspo.html
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rick danger screwed with this post 11-16-2009 at 02:09 PM
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Old 11-13-2009, 06:51 AM   #1149
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you use strait argon for aluminum.

for steel you can use anything from strait co2 which is the cheapest to any number of co2/argon mixes.

i use a c10, which is 90% argon/ 10% co2. i like a strong argon mixture, less splatter. if i can't get c10 i'll use c25.
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Old 11-13-2009, 07:20 AM   #1150
GSWayne
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mysterio
Until now I've been using 3 phase TIG inverters and rectifiers, with which, I've been using my name brand but modestly priced auto darkening helmet with a 2.5 magnifier fitted and it works perfectly. BUT, recently I purchased a pricey single phase TIG inverter and the arc from this machine seems much brighter, so much so that I can hardly see what I'm doing. I changed the helmet shade darkening from 11 to 13 and that didn't help. What is going on?
Could it be that the darkening is not being triggered? Are you running lower current when you have had this problem? I have had to adjust the sensitivity of mine to trip when welding with low current.
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Old 11-13-2009, 08:54 AM   #1151
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mysterio
Until now I've been using 3 phase TIG inverters and rectifiers, with which, I've been using my name brand but modestly priced auto darkening helmet with a 2.5 magnifier fitted and it works perfectly. BUT, recently I purchased a pricey single phase TIG inverter and the arc from this machine seems much brighter, so much so that I can hardly see what I'm doing. I changed the helmet shade darkening from 11 to 13 and that didn't help. What is going on?
This doesn't sound right to me. A tig welder or even a standard buzz box arc welder is simply a machine that converts power from a source (wall plug/generator whatever) to the type and amount of electricity you want at the torch. So if you want 90 amps of DC- at the torch, the welder takes whatever you input in to it and performs it's magic to yield the 90a DC-. What I'm saying is that what you have at the torch should be the same no matter if you put single phase, or three phase into the welder (as long as the welder is set up properly). The inverters do the same it's just with new-fangled electronics. The 90a DC- output from a welder will yield the same light no matter what the input was. I would double check the set up on the new machine.
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Old 11-13-2009, 12:01 PM   #1152
mysterio
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tundrawolf
I might be able to help you with this...

Try a single-shade low cost helmet with a 13 level shade. You will be surprised-that you will be able to see your work.

My friends' Harbor-Freight auto darkener was so bad I couldn't see *anything*. I ended up using a super cheap manual helmet with a 13 shade, and was able to see *everything*. It's just something about them. I am not sure if a more expensive auto darkener would solve the problem, or if maybe it was just a bad unit, but it was garbage. I couldn't see anything with it.
Oops!..Always check for simple errors first I was focused on the shade level and completely overlooked the sensitivity level which had been knocked from high to low. Went to a mates place and we compared set-ups..HE noticed the setting level, but after trying his helmet I decided to get a better one for myself.
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Old 11-13-2009, 12:59 PM   #1153
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What can I expect from this...

Thanks to all the welders that contributed to this thread, I've come to the conclusion that I can not afford a proper welder for the limited amount of projects that I'd be doing. (Mild steel, EMT conduit, etc.)
So guys, what can I expect from this Harbor Freight cheapy. Description as follows: MIG 90 A. flux core 115v. 10% duty @ 80A. .030 wire.
If you say it's a waste of $95.00 (on sale) well, you'll have saved me $95.00.
Thanks guys.
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Old 11-13-2009, 07:32 PM   #1154
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As long as you don't need to do aluminum, you can get by quite well with a quality (one of the big 3 brand name) MIG in the 120-140 amp range.

Don't know the price ranges today, but about 10 years ago I bought a Hobart Handler 120 (now superceded by at least the Handler 140) for about $400. Running C25 gas (75% argon and 25% Co2) I regualrly do regualr steel projects from sheet metal up to 3/16" or 1/4" with multi passes and stainless steel with only slight discoloration from the Co2 in the mix (different filler wire, of course).

It has more than paid for itself in little repairs and fabrication projects. Easy to learn on your own. Runs on 120V so it can go anywhere.

Do I wish I had a bigger machine? Sometimes. Do I have to have a bigger machine? Not so far. There are tricks of the trade like preheating or multipassing or both that greatly extend the capability of these small machines. When I used to hang out on a welding news group, one of the mainstays there who was a welding instructor recounted how he used a Handler 120 like mine on a bet to butt weld two pieces of 1 inch thick steel together and have them pass a coupon test where the weld got bent 180 degrees. (A) He is super good. (B) It took a long time. But it proves that a small scale machine can do extraordinary jobs with a little extra knowlege and skills.

Plan on spending at least $400 - $600 and find the best supplier in your area to give all your business to. Some are great. Some are clueless. Some don't like dealing with hobby weldors and jack up the price for gas or other stuff. Shop around and take notes.
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Old 11-16-2009, 02:06 PM   #1155
rick danger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bump Stop
you use strait argon for aluminum.

for steel you can use anything from strait co2 which is the cheapest to any number of co2/argon mixes.

i use a c10, which is 90% argon/ 10% co2. i like a strong argon mixture, less splatter. if i can't get c10 i'll use c25.
Thanks for the reply. So I'll get two tanks. Any input on this machine? http://store.cyberweld.com/mil210witspo.html
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