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Old 03-12-2010, 08:12 PM   #1246
Toyanvil
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I am looking at replacing my 1989 Millermatic 35 with a Millermatic 211 Auto-set with MVP and Spoolmate 100 series spool gun for aluminum. Would this be a good set up for my home? I would like to weld aluminum, but I usually weld wild steel .065 to 3/8"
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Old 03-15-2010, 07:48 PM   #1247
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toyanvil
I am looking at replacing my 1989 Millermatic 35 with a Millermatic 211 Auto-set with MVP and Spoolmate 100 series spool gun for aluminum. Would this be a good set up for my home? I would like to weld aluminum, but I usually weld wild steel .065 to 3/8"
How crazy is it?
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Old 03-15-2010, 07:59 PM   #1248
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Does anyone else goof around with these welder things? It's a fun new toy.

I had to try it. I won't show you the half dozen I vaporized before I got the settings right.

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Old 03-15-2010, 08:04 PM   #1249
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Nice one! Now try for an edge to edge fusion lap weld.



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Old 03-15-2010, 08:06 PM   #1250
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poolside
Nice one! Now try for an edge to edge fusion lap weld.


I did....

The only problem is...I can't get my welder to go below 5 amps and it won't let me turn off pulse. I can get two to stick..but it looks like ass and half of it blows through in a few spots.

I'll leave it up to the real welders and not some bored nerds like myself.
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Old 03-15-2010, 08:24 PM   #1251
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In response to Toyanvil....I really like my MM211. I think it's the perfect size for home use. Works pretty well on 115v but mo' betta on the 220v. I just got a spool gun but unfortunately haven't set it up yet. Lots of info and help on the Miller forum. It's become a very popular choice for the hobby welder. Hope this helps a little.
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Old 03-15-2010, 08:33 PM   #1252
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SimpleSimon
I did....

The only problem is...I can't get my welder to go below 5 amps and it won't let me turn off pulse. I can get two to stick..but it looks like ass and half of it blows through in a few spots.

I'll leave it up to the real welders and not some bored nerds like myself.
Aluminum beer cans are pretty hard to weld too.
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Old 03-15-2010, 08:43 PM   #1253
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SimpleSimon
I did....

The only problem is...I can't get my welder to go below 5 amps and it won't let me turn off pulse. I can get two to stick..but it looks like ass and half of it blows through in a few spots.

I'll leave it up to the real welders and not some bored nerds like myself.


Maybe do a series of back stitch welds? I'd just like to see a picture of it. You don't have to waste gas over it on my account.



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Old 03-16-2010, 07:16 AM   #1254
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SimpleSimon
Does anyone else goof around with these welder things? It's a fun new toy.

I had to try it. I won't show you the half dozen I vaporized before I got the settings right.


try two on the sharp edge
then after that try cans
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Old 03-16-2010, 08:09 AM   #1255
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Which would be a better surface for a weld table?

Flat solid steel top or heavy gauge steel grating?

The flat would suck more heat out of the metal during welding, but the grating wouldnt warp nearly as easy.
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Old 03-16-2010, 10:24 AM   #1256
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MommysLittleMonster

try two on the sharp edge
then after that try cans
I tried and failed miserably. What did you use as a heat sink/settings? I just haven't figured out the right settings on my unit. Even at low settings, it just peels the blades back once I get near the edge.

Not the most productive thing I can do with my Argon.
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Old 03-16-2010, 02:00 PM   #1257
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EvilGenius
Which would be a better surface for a weld table?

Flat solid steel top or heavy gauge steel grating?

The flat would suck more heat out of the metal during welding, but the grating wouldnt warp nearly as easy.
Every table I've worked on has been steel plate ranging fron 3/16 to 1/2". I've never seen anyone use grating for a weld table. You want a surface that is very flat and easy to clean. Steel plate can be cleaned with an angle grinder and/or wire wheel. I've never had any issue with the table warping.
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Old 03-16-2010, 04:58 PM   #1258
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EvilGenius
Which would be a better surface for a weld table?

Flat solid steel top or heavy gauge steel grating?

The flat would suck more heat out of the metal during welding, but the grating wouldnt warp nearly as easy.



Two inch thick carbon steel. stout stop fooling around.
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Old 03-16-2010, 05:41 PM   #1259
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I saw a nice welding table that had a fold-old plasma cutting grate. They used sheetmetal pieces to be load bearing in the grate so they can easily swap them out should they get butchered during cutting.
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Old 03-16-2010, 05:44 PM   #1260
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pablo83
Every table I've worked on has been steel plate ranging fron 3/16 to 1/2". I've never seen anyone use grating for a weld table. You want a surface that is very flat and easy to clean. Steel plate can be cleaned with an angle grinder and/or wire wheel. I've never had any issue with the table warping.
The grating I'm looking at is 1/8" steel strips about 2" wide and about 30" long. They're setup on their sides and run parallel to each other about 1 to 1.5" apart.
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