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Old 04-05-2007, 03:52 PM   #121
WIsixfitty
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KTM640Dakar
Hi WIsixfitty. Thanks for helping. Sometimes I get kept away from this for a couple of days.

We need to help you with your "blues".
Do you live close to Appleton WI?

I don't mean to butt into your thread here but I did notice your customers were piling up and just wanted to help.

Yes, close enough to that other welding company.



I've only did a little crmo stuff for bicycle frames and used silver soldered into lugs, so don't hold me to my words. In general because crmo is of a higher tensile strength (40 to 50k psi maybe) it may flex and work harden at a differnet rate than mild steel which may result in some cracking if stressed. Again this is all based on what little info I have in my argon soaked grey matter.
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Old 04-06-2007, 09:20 AM   #122
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TymeRider
Thanks for the information.

I guess what I want confirmation of is that it's ok to weld a Chrome Molly piece to a mild steel piece?

Yes it is OK.
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Old 04-06-2007, 09:31 AM   #123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snadam
Will the aluminum spool gun you mentioned a few posts back work with the older SP1xx model MIG's? I have a SP175 and get tired of changeing the liner, tips, etc when I want to switch from steel to aluminum. Am I correct that with a proper spool I could make the change more quickly by simply swapping the existing gun and retaining the steel wire roll?

Adam
Unfortunately the Magnum 100SG gun only works on the newer Power MIG's. Since you need to power the little drive motor that is located in the Spool Gun you need to have the Power MIG. The SP series has no extra wiring needed to hook the Spool Gun into. So there is no way to power the drive motor in the spool gun.

I have seen people buy a second Magnum gun for the SP machines. Use the second gun for aluminum so you don't have to swap from nylon to steel gun liners. Also try to keep the aluminum gun as straight as possible so the aluminum wire does not have to go through any twists and turns in the gun cable. This will reduce friction in the liner and allow the soft aluminum wire to feed smoothly. If the aluminum wire does not feed smoothly then you will fuse contact tips and get mad.

Good Luck!
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Old 04-06-2007, 09:38 AM   #124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WIsixfitty
I don't mean to butt into your thread here but I did notice your customers were piling up and just wanted to help.

Yes, close enough to that other welding company.



I've only did a little crmo stuff for bicycle frames and used silver soldered into lugs, so don't hold me to my words. In general because crmo is of a higher tensile strength (40 to 50k psi maybe) it may flex and work harden at a differnet rate than mild steel which may result in some cracking if stressed. Again this is all based on what little info I have in my argon soaked grey matter.
No problem!

I love welding, even if it is with the other guys machines.

I think we can all learn from each other, and sharing information is the reason we all read these threads. I hope to learn something too!

No matter how smart I think I am there is always someone who can teach me something.

Do you watch races at Road America? I love that track.
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Old 04-06-2007, 03:21 PM   #125
WIsixfitty
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KTM640Dakar
No problem!

I love welding, even if it is with the other guys machines.

I think we can all learn from each other, and sharing information is the reason we all read these threads. I hope to learn something too!

No matter how smart I think I am there is always someone who can teach me something.

Do you watch races at Road America? I love that track.
Cheers

I never stop listening and learning.

A guy I work with is (and long time blue man) is actually looking at a red tig setup with pulse etc. I forgets which model etc. This has piqued my interest in that other color.


Yes RdAm is one place I get to quite a bit every summer. Mainly the AMA national, a few super retard(motard) and for cages I see Vinatge and Champcar.
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Old 04-07-2007, 08:49 PM   #126
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Using Flux Core on older MIG

I have an old (circa 1986) Snap-On YA217 MIG (Made by Tweeco) and I want to use fluxcore wire. I'm told that I need to change the polarity to do so, but I can't figure out how to do this.

Is it even possible on a unit this old?
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Old 04-08-2007, 10:00 AM   #127
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I sold my tig welder and plan to get another when I move. I made a part for the GS after market can. I wanted to mount it with a rubber insulator to remove the vibration and harmonic resonance. I made the part out of stainless and had to solder the stainless tube to the plate. I had a hell of a time doing it. I did get it done. Have you had experience soldering stainless? I used hard silver solder (60 percent silver ) is there a better way to do it such as flux?
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Old 04-08-2007, 11:53 AM   #128
WIsixfitty
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unless I'm missing something why not simply weld it to the plate with filler rod? *thinks*........unless this was after you sold your welder.


Stainless to low carbon/mild steel use 309 filler. You can also use a brazing wire to join these two. I forgot the exact name of this filler but can find out tomorrow at worky. I've used it and it flows very nice.

stainless to stainless use 308L as long as it's 304, the most common of stainless.
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Old 04-08-2007, 03:57 PM   #129
Muddpuppy
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After I sold the tig. If i still had it I would have welded it with stainless.
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Old 04-09-2007, 02:57 AM   #130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Muddpuppy
I made the part out of stainless and had to solder the stainless tube to the plate. I had a hell of a time doing it. I did get it done. Have you had experience soldering stainless? I used hard silver solder (60 percent silver ) is there a better way to do it such as flux?
Google for silver solder stainless steel flux. There is flux core silver solder and brush on flux and powder flux, all for stainless, made by many companies. The 60% silver may be a brazing filler.

I've used Aufhauser and Lucas-Milhaupt products and can recommend them both.
http://www.brazing.com/products/Flux...razingflux.asp
http://www.lucas-milhaupt.com/htmdoc...cts/index.html

- Jim

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Old 04-09-2007, 05:12 AM   #131
Muddpuppy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poolside


Google for silver solder stainless steel flux. There is flux core silver solder and brush on flux and powder flux, all for stainless, made by many companies. The 60% silver may be a brazing filler.

I've used Aufhauser and Lucas-Milhaupt products and can recommend them both.
http://www.brazing.com/products/Flux...razingflux.asp
http://www.lucas-milhaupt.com/htmdoc...cts/index.html

- Jim
Thanks I will check it out.
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Old 04-10-2007, 12:39 PM   #132
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I posted this question in another thread, then saw your thread here, so thought I'd move it.

My boss has assigned me a fabrication project (a small platform to hang on the side of a hopper so somebody can acces said hopper with a shovel or pitchfork) and wants to use aluminum. We only have a MIG welder, and I expressed my concern because I don't believe that a MIG can make a weld that I'd trust with my life. I told him that he should send me to welding classes or buy (or borrow) a TIG welder to do the job safely and correctly. I have always thought that TIG was the standard for aluminum. I believe this because with a TIG you get much better penetration and are left with a convex weld as opposed to a knoby surface weld (not to mention the possibility for heat stress, and warpage) you get when using a MIG.

If I'm forced to use the MIG, what besides setting it to the correct voltage and speed and using the push method do I need to do?

Thanks
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Old 04-10-2007, 02:23 PM   #133
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Quote:
Originally Posted by honcho
We only have a MIG welder, and I expressed my concern because I don't believe that a MIG can make a weld that I'd trust with my life. I have always thought that TIG was the standard for aluminum.
Any aluminum sportbike frame you care to name is MIG welded. And most of the welds join an aluminum extrusion to an aluminum casting. Prolly most of us here have trusted our lives to MIG welded aluminum.

Here's some info from Miller, and Lincoln has similar articles: http://www.millerwelds.com/education...rticles10.html Some important things are the right chamfers for the material thickness, helium shield gas, positive electrode, and a forehand torch angle.

You can always bolt the platform together, and hang it from the sidewall (or from the side surface of the top rail) of the hopper, instead of 'hooking' it over the top. The 'hook' will be an unsupportable cantilever and puts a bending load on the hook and platform members. But hanging the platform on the sidewall, like a picture on a wall, puts the platform members in tension and that's good.

- Jim

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Poolside screwed with this post 04-10-2007 at 02:28 PM
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Old 04-11-2007, 08:25 PM   #134
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Baby's first welder

I think I'm the poor bastard child of this thread.

I picked up a old school oxy/gas welding set-up at a yard sale.
It came with two small tanks with dials, a torch, googles, and hoses.

It's in no way powered, just gas.
What can I do with it?
I know nothing about welding safety/technique but am a quick learner.
Can anyone recommend a basic welding book that explains the process.

I really just want to repair old steel trailers, fences, and general steel projects around the yard.

great thread
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Old 04-11-2007, 08:50 PM   #135
KTM640Dakar OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimX
I have an old (circa 1986) Snap-On YA217 MIG (Made by Tweeco) and I want to use fluxcore wire. I'm told that I need to change the polarity to do so, but I can't figure out how to do this.

Is it even possible on a unit this old?
Yes if you run flux cored wire you will need to make it DC-. That means you need to connect the Negative DC lead to the gun and hook the Positive DC lead to the part you are welding on (also called ground). On most wirefeed welders you can open the box that the wire drive is in, and look for the heavy copper lead that is marked DC+ and DC-. Usually they are labeled in the machine.

On Lincoln SP welders and PowerMIGS there is a wingnut that you tighten the lead to the contact block(made out of copper where the gun hooks in). If you are running Fluxcored wire hook the DC- to that block. The ground clamp will go to DC+.

For solid steel wire and stainless use electrode positive DC+ and DC- to ground clamp.

If you want a general purpose mild steel flux cored wire try Lincoln Innershield NR211MP. It comes in .030, .035 and .045 diameters.
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