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Old 02-28-2010, 08:16 PM   #2146
Badger
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Did you leave the pink foam down for the concrete pour? and if so, how did you do the pour?
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Old 03-01-2010, 08:52 AM   #2147
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Badger- since the slab is heated it must be insulated to at least R-10. Rock, sand, vapor barrier, foam, wire, rebar, pex, concrete.
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Old 03-02-2010, 07:20 AM   #2148
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Island Rider
Yep, what Roy said. I put down 2500 feet of pex so that someday I can afford to heat the place. I will probably have to sell either the bike or the mog to afford that tthough. I do recognize the irony of having 2500 square feet of shop space and having to sell all (not really all) of the cool stuff to pay for it. I'm pretty sure that is some kind of karmic law, "Wife's karmic law of toys".

I'm heating 600 sf w/ a conventional 40 gallon electric hot water heater and think I could easily double the square footage w/out issue. It was fairly inexpensive to implement, less than $500 for everything (pex & fittings included).
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Old 03-02-2010, 09:06 AM   #2149
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If I had to do my garage again, I'd insulate the slab.
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Old 03-02-2010, 11:19 AM   #2150
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Island Rider
Yep, what Roy said. I put down 2500 feet of pex so that someday I can afford to heat the place. I will probably have to sell either the bike or the mog to afford that tthough. I do recognize the irony of having 2500 square feet of shop space and having to sell all (not really all) of the cool stuff to pay for it. I'm pretty sure that is some kind of karmic law, "Wife's karmic law of toys".
My son heats a 2k sq ft house, a 30x60 shop and a green house with pex in the floor. He built a 300 gal box that surrounds a 3'x4' firebox. When the water temp drops to 155* the draft opens and a blower is activated. At 165* blower shuts off and draft closes. It works great and so far he's just burning slash from a pre commercial thinning project on his place.
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Old 03-02-2010, 02:56 PM   #2151
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bosco
I'm heating 600 sf w/ a conventional 40 gallon electric hot water heater and think I could easily double the square footage w/out issue. It was fairly inexpensive to implement, less than $500 for everything (pex & fittings included).
Radiant heating is a good way to warm, but in the south, forced air is king for a reason - you can't cool with a radiant system. Here, cooling for a shop is often a big plus.
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Old 03-02-2010, 03:56 PM   #2152
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dahveed
Radiant heating is a good way to warm, but in the south, forced air is king for a reason - you can't cool with a radiant system. Here, cooling for a shop is often a big plus.
but I will say this, even in AZ, working on vehicles in the winter, you could not EVER beat a warm floor. and a portable evaporitive cooler wll do a 2 or three car garage real nice even on a 100 degree day. (mind you, i have niether. i borrowed a propane space heater this winter, and this summer, i'll be hot... again.)
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Old 03-02-2010, 04:31 PM   #2153
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lightfighter
but I will say this, even in AZ, working on vehicles in the winter, you could not EVER beat a warm floor. and a portable evaporitive cooler wll do a 2 or three car garage real nice even on a 100 degree day. (mind you, i have niether. i borrowed a propane space heater this winter, and this summer, i'll be hot... again.)
poor man's air conditioning


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Old 03-02-2010, 04:43 PM   #2154
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rashnak
Now that is funny
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Old 03-02-2010, 07:02 PM   #2155
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dahveed
Radiant heating is a good way to warm, but in the south, forced air is king for a reason - you can't cool with a radiant system. Here, cooling for a shop is often a big plus.
With a geothermal loop, you can heat and cool. Not cheap but possible.
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Old 03-02-2010, 07:09 PM   #2156
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Quote:
Originally Posted by koncha
With a geothermal loop, you can heat and cool. Not cheap but possible.
I think you would have to dehumidify if you wanted to do geothermal cooling.

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Old 03-03-2010, 07:20 AM   #2157
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I'm at a mental block for the moment. What's something fairly durable but inexpensive that I could cover the top of my work benches with?
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Old 03-03-2010, 07:25 AM   #2158
duckrider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dahveed
Radiant heating is a good way to warm, but in the south, forced air is king for a reason - you can't cool with a radiant system. Here, cooling for a shop is often a big plus.
In the summer 55* well water circulates through the floor, but seldom needed. In the summer 50* temp swings are common here. 100+ in the afternoon and 65 by 1 AM. Also it's not humid. It doesn't get really hot until mid afternoon.
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Old 03-03-2010, 07:26 AM   #2159
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Hardboard. use countersunk brass screws to keep it in place. Pics in a minute.
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Old 03-03-2010, 07:35 AM   #2160
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I have my bench built at 24" depth. This allows me to split a 4"x 8" sheet of hardboard lengthwise. I can then use one half and keep the second half in reserve for later. pardon the mess, projects in work. FYI, teh bench top itself is 3/4" MDF split lenghtwise and tehn screwed/glued together for an 1.5" thick super sturdy top.






One of the projects
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