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Old 09-16-2010, 03:03 PM   #2716
propforward
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dahveed
Well, you may already be doing it. In your drawing here are the blue posts the existing barn poles?
That's exactly what they are.

Quote:
Since the barn is already bearing the roof load, you can get by with 24" oc on the wall framing, especially if you're going to sheath the interior with . I would likely align the wall framing with the inside face of the posts and only use thicker lumber where required - around the window opening for example.
This is fantastic. That's exactly what I'm planning on. The 24" centers is good, I had planned on 16, but not needing to go that way is just fine.

Quote:
Are you planning to deck and store anything on the ceiling joists? If you are, be sure to account for that load in the span calculations.
Good point. I am only framing in 2/5ths of the pole shed...might do more in due course, but basically there is no need to store stuff on top of the workshop. Knowing me as well as I do, I'd only put crap up there that I'd never use anyway.

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In the photo of the exterior of the barn, there is a door and a garage door. What are you going to do with those openings? Your structure inside will prevent you from opening the door, won't it?

Overall it looks good.
Those are in the front of the shed, I'm going to frame in the very rear 2/5ths away from those doors.

Thanks for looking it over! Greatly appreciated. This is my first construction project, so it's all feedback like this really helps. Suffice to say I have been quizzing people with appropriate knowledge here at work too, which is how I ended up with this arrangement.

I am liking the T1-11, but it's a bit pricey. Not sure on that approach yet.
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Old 09-16-2010, 04:34 PM   #2717
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Quote:
Originally Posted by propforward
Those are in the front of the shed, I'm going to frame in the very rear 2/5ths away from those doors.

Thanks for looking it over! Greatly appreciated. This is my first construction project, so it's all feedback like this really helps. Suffice to say I have been quizzing people with appropriate knowledge here at work too, which is how I ended up with this arrangement.

I am liking the T1-11, but it's a bit pricey. Not sure on that approach yet.
I see, I thought you were framing the left side. The rear makes more sense.

Once again, since the barn is already doing all the heavy lifting, you could use a pretty thin sheathing material. Of course, the thiner it is the harder it will be to attach things to it.

It will be very hard to beat OSB in the price competition. That stuff is just flat out inexpensive.

One last thing (for now anyway) you might want to consider using a pressure treated (PT) lumber for the bottom plate in each section. Also I'd put a layer of roofing felt under it too. Concrete is usually porous and ground moisture will pass through the concrete and wet your wood. Of course, any metal you use in PT lumber needs to be a special double dipped zinc designed for PT wood or stainless. Also, whatever material you choose to for you interior sheathing, you need to install it 1/2" above the concrete so it doesn't wick up any ground moisture.

I've gotta run, let me know if you have any questions.
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Old 09-16-2010, 07:49 PM   #2718
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Quote:
Originally Posted by propforward

I am liking the T1-11, but it's a bit pricey. Not sure on that approach yet.
When I lived in CA the building dept had pamphlets that stated the requirements for various projects. You could check with them that way you don't build something that later won't get approval.

Craigslist varies in different areas but I see lumber and such on the craigslist down here. You never know someone may have extra, bought materials for a project but decided not to do it or you could find something way better for less than new cheap materials.
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Old 09-16-2010, 08:49 PM   #2719
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Originally Posted by zenben
That's a smart idea, supporting the unit heater from underneath.
Think I'll use that idea for inspiration.
Thank you.

I didn't like the way the manufacture wanted that heater mounted, so those are 5/16 steel rods going up through the ceiling to some bracing in the attic, and that part you see is welded out of 1" square tubing.
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Old 09-16-2010, 09:03 PM   #2720
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scooteraug02
When I lived in CA the building dept had pamphlets that stated the requirements for various projects. You could check with them that way you don't build something that later won't get approval.

Craigslist varies in different areas but I see lumber and such on the craigslist down here. You never know someone may have extra, bought materials for a project but decided not to do it or you could find something way better for less than new cheap materials.
Where I live in Texas, I don't think you can build a fire in your fireplace without a permit. I would definitely avoid getting one if its not needed. I don't think the process adds any benefit to the project. It may be very different up there, but I suspect it similar. It goes something like this:

1 - Take your plans down to city hall.
2 - wait in line for an hour only to be told your missing a required drawing.
3 - Go home, create missing drawing, and go back the next day.
4 - Wait another hour and hear a different person say "you don't need that drawing for your project."
5 - pay your fee.
6 - go to plan review.
7 - "Looks ok, here's your permit"
8 - Inspector comes out, "you can't do that, oh and BTW, you'll have to bring the rest of the barn up to code too."
9 - You'll also need to get an electrical permit. Must be a licensed Master Electrician to get that."
10 - because you're doing something different (finishing out a section of a barn) expect a lot of bizarre thinking trying to get your project to fit in the code.
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Old 09-17-2010, 04:52 AM   #2721
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Originally Posted by Dahveed
I don't think you can build a fire in your fireplace without a permit.


That tends to be the way of it. However, I called the building guy for our township ( a nice, small, sparsely populated area), and he seemed pretty reasonable. I explained what I wanted to do and he was totally on board with it. The application goes directly to him. Quite a few people around here frame out barns this way (otherwise you can't do shit in them over winter) so he didn't seem phased. We shall see though!

In Mn you have to go through the state for the electrical permit. I still have to get that going.
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Old 09-17-2010, 05:32 AM   #2722
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Originally Posted by propforward


That tends to be the way of it. However, I called the building guy for our township ( a nice, small, sparsely populated area), and he seemed pretty reasonable. I explained what I wanted to do and he was totally on board with it. The application goes directly to him. Quite a few people around here frame out barns this way (otherwise you can't do shit in them over winter) so he didn't seem phased. We shall see though!

In Mn you have to go through the state for the electrical permit. I still have to get that going.
Hopefully he'll remain reasonable for the entire build. Having a small town helps because you'll have to deal with fewer people, unless those people are jerks.

Its good to build to code. In the past engineers wrote the code and it was reasonable, but lately the manufacturers have figured out that by taking control of the code, they can mandate the use of their products. So now there are a few items required in the code that marginally increase the safety of the building at twice (or more) the cost of prior products. Why compete fairly when you can just get the governmental body to require using your products?

Here in Texas any sort of enclosing in a barn is an infrequent event, so its possible you could end up with the code book being applied over-zealously, depending on your building official.

Here where I am, only the master electrician and plumber can get these mechanical permits. Its a pain. I called for an inspection and got a nasty note and a red tag on the door. It turned out my plumber never called to get a permit.
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Old 09-17-2010, 08:33 AM   #2723
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Yeah I hope so. It's a potential minefield.

In any case I'll keep you posted as to what happens. I was half tempted to just do the project, but you can land in hot water that way, so I have decided to keep it on the up and up. I figure it will be for the best long term, if/when I sell the place.

The permit app doesn't even call for drawings, but I'll provide them anyway - can't hurt and I already modelled the thing on the pooter anyway.
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Old 09-17-2010, 08:48 AM   #2724
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Quote:
Originally Posted by propforward
Yeah I hope so. It's a potential minefield.

In any case I'll keep you posted as to what happens. I was half tempted to just do the project, but you can land in hot water that way, so I have decided to keep it on the up and up. I figure it will be for the best long term, if/when I sell the place.

The permit app doesn't even call for drawings, but I'll provide them anyway - can't hurt and I already modelled the thing on the pooter anyway.
Only give them what they want, nothing more.
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Old 09-17-2010, 08:55 AM   #2725
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Yeah, fair point.
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Old 09-17-2010, 09:04 AM   #2726
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What's up with all those garages and barns? Y'all have your priorities messed up...

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Old 09-17-2010, 09:45 AM   #2727
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Talking

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Originally Posted by T.REX63
What's up with all those garages and barns? Y'all have your priorities messed up...

KTM on white carpet, how long was the wife out of town for?
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Old 09-17-2010, 09:56 AM   #2728
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KTM on white carpet, how long was the wife out of town for?
Quite some time actually . And, we have wood flooring now (not because of the KTM in all fairness)
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Old 09-17-2010, 10:12 AM   #2729
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Originally Posted by T.REX63
What's up with all those garages and barns? Y'all have your priorities messed up...

I done that already. The dining room table makes for a good workbench.



So is the kitchen table


Panic room is a crap movie



Jason and the Argonauts is much better





But my new workshop's going to be more betterer, and have machine tools and stuff like that.
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Old 09-17-2010, 10:21 AM   #2730
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I like the shop / kitchen combination the best...
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