Let's see your Man Castle

[C-Stain]

Originally Posted by JimVonBaden

These are the kitchen cabinets, AKURUM. Heavier than the basic shelving units. These are part of a Kitchen kit that you can buy as shown.

Jim

linky?

[JimVonBaden]

Originally Posted by rick danger

Lookin' Good Jim!

Thanks Rick, though mine pales to obscurity in comparrison to yours!

Jim

[JimVonBaden]

Originally Posted by rick danger

Thats what I'm going to use too. Cheapest way to go. I can do my floor for $600 where Racedeck or similar would cost me $3500. I'm going to cut them on my table saw. tried it and it seems to work ok. I'm doing blue/white checker and. down the middle will be 6' wide all black. With yellow 3" stripes down each side and two yellow stripes down the middle so it looks like a road The black tile has flecks of white/lighter colors that almost makes it look like asphalt. (if you use your imagination). I have 6' doors on either side of the room, so the "road" will go from one to the other. The bikes will be on either side of it so they wont get run over by a tractortrailer or something

That's going to look great Rick!

Jim

[JimVonBaden]

Originally Posted by C-Stain

linky?

http://www.ikea.com/us/en/search/?qu...M+Wall+cabinet

Pay close attention to the width. There are a lot to choose from.

Jim

[lightfighter]

how slippery are those vct tiles when wet? relative to a painted floor?

andwhat blade did you use on the saw?

[JimVonBaden]

Originally Posted by lightfighter

how slippery are those vct tiles when wet? relative to a painted floor?

andwhat blade did you use on the saw?

It depends on if you polish them, or just put on a finishing fluid. Polished they are like any other wet smooth surface. Unpolished they grip pretty well.

I used a simple carpet knife and scored the tile at least 5 times, then snapped it off. Took about 20 seconds to cut each tile. If useing a power saw, you would want the teeth as fine as you could get them to prevent breaking off chunks of tile,

Jim

[trailer Rails]

Here is my plan, I think it is somewhat to scale. 30 feet wide by 50 feet deep.

Where the truck is located a vehicle lift will be installed.

The Bobcat and lawn tractor are at the front right.

I think I am only going to do one garage door and double man door. In front of the truck will be the wood shop area. I would like to keep the welding area at the opposite end of the garage, maybe the motorcycles will have to go in a different area.

I am having a hard time visualizing everything. It almost seems like there is not enough room. I am looking for suggestions. I think I just need to nail down where the lift will be installed, then I can put stuff in from there.

[mcma111]

Don't put the vehicle lift next to the work bench area because every time your working on the bench you'll be running into the lift post. Put the lift on the other side of the garage.

[P B G]

Figure out how much offset you'll need between the side of the lift and the centerline, if you put the lift towards the wall that's how far in the midline of that car will be when on the lift, compare that to door location.

I would be tempted to put the lift all the way in, and use it to store some of that stuff, tractor, atv etc. When not in use.

[Tech23]

What the other guys have said concerning lift location is good advise .Have you selected a lift yet? Also consider how far you'll need to run an exhaust tube from the tailpipe if you plan on running cars with closed doors and windows during the winter months if you put the lift all the way back with only one garage door. Also consider lighting for lift placement, it's nice to have a lift near the garage door in good weather so you can raise the door and take advantage of sun light. Also consider which side of the garage is the best side for the roll up door if taking advantage of sunlight is something you want to do. Sucks having a garage door open in nice weather then having the sun shining directly in your eyes while under the lift. Might be better to place the lift so that a vehicle can be driven straight thru it to the back of the shop rather than place where it might be a obstacle.The diagram you posted is a start, could you label what the pieces are along the walls...work benches, floor shelving units etc.?

Floor shelving is nice because you can rearrange it if necessary, but it eats up floor space, conversely wall mounted shelving keeps the floor open but can dictate what can go against the walls. Measure out the width of all your shop equipment that you want to place against the walls, bench grinder if it's pedestal mounted, drill press (unless it's a bench top style), tool box width and anything else you don't want in the middle of the floor to get a better idea of how you want it laid out. Take the measurement total of all the equipment you know you want against a wall and compare that measurement with available wall space.

Tech23

[JimVonBaden]

I picked up a nice "little" Craig's List find today for $40.


It is on a 4X6 trailer, and took two of us struggling hard to get it there. It is 7'4" tall, 40" wide, 27" deep and I am estimating it weighs 200#!

Note the shelving unit behind the photo above that this is replacing.


At some point it was modified in the past, and I thought I would have to UNmodify it. The open side was too narrow for much, and the shelf not at an ideal height.


But, when I started loading it with the stuff off the shelf, I realized it was actually perfect for storing my extra sheet metal and plastics.

I have a lot more to load, and I will add another shelf after the second one, but I think I am going to like it!



Overall it fits nicely with the IKEA cabinets, though it is 8" deaper, it looks good and fits the space well.

Jim

[HapHazard]

Originally Posted by mcma111

Don't put the vehicle lift next to the work bench area because every time your working on the bench you'll be running into the lift post. Put the lift on the other side of the garage.

+1 Regardless of lift type, it'll be in the way by the bench area.

One door? Fine, make it a 16' wide door. otherwise regret will follow.

That nice double-size man door? Put it down at the other end, so you can pull your tractor out without unloading the whole garage (my regret I didn't do that with my end-loading garage).

Woodworking area? Close it off from the mechanical shop area with a wall, or build an additional separate space (or large shed). Wood dust has no place in a garage shop if you're doing mechanical work, body work, welding, painting, etc. We had carpenters in during our kitchen remodel who had to setup a saw in my garage and they put more dust in my garage in 2 days than I did in 30 years. Dust collection system is fine, along with dust segregation.

[rick danger]

Originally Posted by JimVonBaden

It depends on if you polish them, or just put on a finishing fluid.

Jim

Jim, I was going to ask you if you sealed your tiles or not. They told me at Lowes I should seal them with something. But I dont want something that will show tire marks when I roll a bike across them.

[Terence FFM]

Maybe it's time to move to the sticks. Where I live, you are looking at around $65/sqft for the land alone.

Still, it's always good to have a plan in case I win the lottery...

[JimVonBaden]

Originally Posted by rick danger

Jim, I was going to ask you if you sealed your tiles or not. They told me at Lowes I should seal them with something. But I dont want something that will show tire marks when I roll a bike across them.

Once I am done with all the moving crap around I plan to seal them. Mainly to make them easier to clean. A good Armstrong sealer wont be slipery, yet will protect the joints from water that can loosen a tile if it sits and seeps in around the edges. The tile glue is water based.

Jim :cool: