Let's see your Man Castle

[roverchild]

Messy/Farm Shop


Slighly less messy auto shop


Upstairs wood shop



Shop in the very very early stages, this is where we plan to put a 50'x80' shop. heated and foam insulated with some big ol doors at each end. anyone know a good lift that will easily handle a one ton truck?

[Tech23]

Originally Posted by spafxer

This photo of ScooterAug's garage reminded me of my situation.

I'm lucky enough to be able to leave my roll up door open while working in the garage most of the time. This effectively blanks out a good portion of my lighting from the ceiling. Does anyone have any ideas on mounting lighting to the garage door? A coiled cord to supply power to them or ??

I have the same diamond plate shop lights mounted in my garage. Mine are mounted directly to the ceiling and hard wired though. I have one row of three that are blocked when the doors are up also. I put those three on a separate wall switch so I can turn them off when the door/doors are up. The doors are only open during daylight hours anyway. Even though all the ceiling lights are wall switch operated I did keep the pull chains on all the shop lights so that I can turn on/off the lights in any location/order.

I think some sort of light mounted to the sides of the doors aimed where they are needed might work. Mounting an incandescent style lamp to the door will make for short bulb life from vibration of the door going up/down...I wouldn't even attempt to mount a florescent style lamp to a door for fear of a glass tube coming down. Mounting any light to a door just sounds dangerous, and most likely against building code.

Tech23

[ducnut]

Originally Posted by roverchild

anyone know a good lift that will easily handle a one ton truck?

BendPak is pretty much the industry standard. They've got some really big stuff; 2-post up to 18K pounds.

[roverchild]

thats the brand that we have been considering.

[ducnut]

Originally Posted by roverchild

thats the brand that we have been considering.

My brother has 2 of 'em, in his repair shop. I've a buddy who was a full-service auto service/gas station maintenance tech, for lack of term. He's installed and serviced them all, but, always touted the goodness of BendPak. If you were more of a home shop/hobbyist operation, you could probably get away with about anything. But, that doesn't look like you.

[LoFlow]

I've been hanging out here for a while and drooling over some of the nice garages so I may as well show mine. It's small, old and not nearly as well organized as some of yours, but I have fun in it.





And once in a while I like to drill things.

[JimVonBaden]

Originally Posted by LoFlow

I've been hanging out here for a while and drooling over some of the nice garages so I may as well show mine. It's small, old and not nearly as well organized as some of yours, but I have fun in it.





And once in a while I like to drill things.

Looks like a great use of space, and well organized!

Jim

[Meles meles]

Originally Posted by roverchild

Messy/Farm Shop


Slighly less messy auto shop

Classic! Land-Rover parts everywhere.

[therealbigman]

Originally Posted by LoFlow

I've been hanging out here for a while and drooling over some of the nice garages so I may as well show mine. It's small, old and not nearly as well organized as some of yours, but I have fun in it.





And once in a while I like to drill things.

Would you like to add some more driller thangy's

[Riteris]

Originally Posted by spafxer

This photo of ScooterAug's garage reminded me of my situation.

I'm lucky enough to be able to leave my roll up door open while working in the garage most of the time. This effectively blanks out a good portion of my lighting from the ceiling. Does anyone have any ideas on mounting lighting to the garage door? A coiled cord to supply power to them or ??

I would consider placing lights off to the side and angled inward. Maybe even put lights on the wall?

I don't know if you can add windows to your garage door but if so, hang lights directly above the windows when the garage door is open.

[LoFlow]

[QUOTE=therealbigman;18114431]Would you like to add some more driller thangy's


Oh that Delta is a dandy!

[therealbigman]

[QUOTE=LoFlow;18114689]

Originally Posted by therealbigman

Would you like to add some more driller thangy's


Oh that Delta is a dandy!

Yep , made by our Homeboys also , not the new Tiawan , Japanese , or whatever the hell there made ,

Thanks

[Ko]

Originally Posted by rick danger

Thats what I'm going to use too. Cheapest way to go. I can do my floor for $600 where Racedeck or similar would cost me $3500. I'm going to cut them on my table saw. tried it and it seems to work ok. I'm doing blue/white checker and. down the middle will be 6' wide all black. With yellow 3" stripes down each side and two yellow stripes down the middle so it looks like a road The black tile has flecks of white/lighter colors that almost makes it look like asphalt. (if you use your imagination). I have 6' doors on either side of the room, so the "road" will go from one to the other. The bikes will be on either side of it so they wont get run over by a tractortrailer or something

Don't want to sidetrack the display of shops/garages and such, just to offer a tip or two- VCT tiles break very easily if you lightly score them on the top (there's a shiny top and a somewhat dull looking bottom althoug they look similar), and then bend it. With practice you can have multiple cuts break easily. If you have a complex cut around something just take a heat gun to it and it becomes buttery- then it burns but hopefully you stopped by then. If you heat the cuts yo uscored you can easily cut through.
It's worthwhile having/renting a tile cutter- looks like a guilottine. With that one you can make MUCH cleaner/faster cuts than a saw would do- meaning when you but the tiles you won't have much of a gap. If you do, just take a blade and shave the edge of a tile by moving the knife up and down perpendicular on the edge- those small flakes can be rubbed in cracks and won't show because these tiles are same colour all the way through.
Typically these tiles are waxed (for home applications grab a pail and use a mop to spread it)- Walmart and others wax them regularly so the wear is on the wax and not on tiles. Waxing them won't make them much more slippery then they already are, and it makes it easier to keep them clean.
Glue wise, I suggest buying the black one- dries faster and it holds faster and betterr than the white one. But it's harder to clean- although you shouldn't if you wait for it to dry.

[Langanobob]

Originally Posted by roverchild

Messy/Farm Shop

Excellent! Best shop pictures I've seen so far, makes me feel right at home. Mine is only slightly less orderly. The site for your new shop looks great. I built a 40 by 60 (yeah, I know, small by your standards) a few years ago and it's the best thing I ever did. Thought I had plenty of space but it sure filled up fast.

Bob

[rick danger]

Originally Posted by Ko

Don't want to sidetrack the display of shops/garages and such, just to offer a tip or two- VCT tiles break very easily if you lightly score them on the top (there's a shiny top and a somewhat dull looking bottom althoug they look similar), and then bend it. With practice you can have multiple cuts break easily. If you have a complex cut around something just take a heat gun to it and it becomes buttery- then it burns but hopefully you stopped by then. If you heat the cuts yo uscored you can easily cut through.
It's worthwhile having/renting a tile cutter- looks like a guilottine. With that one you can make MUCH cleaner/faster cuts than a saw would do- meaning when you but the tiles you won't have much of a gap. If you do, just take a blade and shave the edge of a tile by moving the knife up and down perpendicular on the edge- those small flakes can be rubbed in cracks and won't show because these tiles are same colour all the way through.
Typically these tiles are waxed (for home applications grab a pail and use a mop to spread it)- Walmart and others wax them regularly so the wear is on the wax and not on tiles. Waxing them won't make them much more slippery then they already are, and it makes it easier to keep them clean.
Glue wise, I suggest buying the black one- dries faster and it holds faster and betterr than the white one. But it's harder to clean- although you shouldn't if you wait for it to dry.

Thanks for the tips. I started yesterday and the table swa seems to be doing a good job. Perfect edge. You just have to go REAL slow at the last 1/4" or a little corner will chunk off. It also works to push it through the last bit with a scrap of wood. But I've just been going slow at the end.I'll post some pics tomorrow.