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Old 06-20-2013, 09:24 PM   #5461
JagLite
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Cool2 Step footings

Step footings are used to save you money.

The top of the footing has to be below the freeze line for your area when using standard footing designs. If the footing was not stepped up you would have to pay for more foundation wall height.

Actually it appears that there could be two steps, possibly three, in the length of the sidewalls, not just one. In our area the top of footing is 42" below finish grade and the footing is usually 12" thick and 1" or 24" wide. The foundation wall goes on top of that and is usually made with concrete block and filled with grout. The anchor bolts are embedded in the top of that. There will be rebar in both the footing and wall to give it strength.

Yes, you will want to have a foundation drain around the buried sides and extending out to daylight away from the garage to drain the water away. It is commonly called a drain tile even though it is a corrugated plastic tube with holes in it and a geofabric membrane wrapped around it to keep dirt out.

You will also waterproof the underground walls but there are much better products for that than tar nowadays. Polywall, Bitchuthane (sp?), and others.

I can't see the dimensions of the building but I recommend (strongly) that you make it as wide as you can afford. 26' minimum for a two car garage.

I like individual doors too but if you have the front wall built so that you can remove the center divider with no structural changes required, so that if you decide down the road to build a boat or an airplane you can just remove the non-structural divider wall and sell the two doors and install a nice wide single door. It is always good to plan ahead to keep your options open. This will be simple if the building is using roof trusses so the front wall is not load bearing. I also like to put the man door in the front of the garage if possible. It gives more security being in plain sight and the snow/rain won't fall on your head when going in and out if you don't have gutters. Also less snow shoveling since it is not on the slope side.

Just my 2c
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Old 06-21-2013, 04:26 AM   #5462
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I am new at this construction stuff. I have never seen a stepped footer before, it makes sense, it is going to be buried more than enough. I would like to do almost everything myself (mainly because I am cheap) but if anyone has any advice where I may benefit from hiring someone to do one part of the job. I am thinking the footer pour and the slab pour will be sub contracted out. My experience with masonry work is limited but I think I can handle the block work. Tell me more about the various ways to seal the block from the outside.

The structure it's self is 30' wide by 40' deep with 14' of over head clearance.

trailer Rails screwed with this post 06-21-2013 at 04:32 AM
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Old 06-21-2013, 08:36 AM   #5463
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Originally Posted by JagLite View Post
Yes, you will want to have a foundation drain around the buried sides and extending out to daylight away from the garage to drain the water away. It is commonly called a drain tile even though it is a corrugated plastic tube with holes in it and a geofabric membrane wrapped around it to keep dirt out.
Make that perforated PVC; not that corrugated shit. Corrugated fills up with sediment and mud and the ridges hold it there, even though you put a sock on it.

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Old 06-21-2013, 10:04 AM   #5464
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Make that perforated PVC; not that corrugated shit. Corrugated fills up with sediment and mud and the ridges hold it there, even though you put a sock on it.

Do you have to cover the PVC in a landscape type fabric?
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Old 06-21-2013, 12:35 PM   #5465
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either cover it in a sock or even better lay fabric under it. then up the dirt wall. fill spcae bewteen dirt wall and foundation with gravel up to about 6" of finish height then lay fabric over gravel and cover with soil
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Old 06-21-2013, 12:36 PM   #5466
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I finally got my garge door installed

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Old 06-21-2013, 01:01 PM   #5467
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^You're dog looks guilty.

Nice door!
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Old 06-21-2013, 01:05 PM   #5468
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He does , but its actually just a mid turn shot. he can sense when any camera is being used and will usually pop into the shot just as the shutter clicks
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Old 06-21-2013, 04:34 PM   #5469
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Thumb Garage size

Quote:
Originally Posted by trailer Rails View Post

The structure it's self is 30' wide by 40' deep with 14' of over head clearance.
Excellent!
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Old 06-21-2013, 05:24 PM   #5470
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Do you have to cover the PVC in a landscape type fabric?
Don't use landscape fabric. They make a specific sock-like, screen material that fits over the pipe. It's kind of a PITA, but, you have to use something to help stop solids from getting into your drainage system.
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Old 06-21-2013, 05:40 PM   #5471
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Thoughts?



I am not sure what to make of the stepped foundation, anyone have any experience with that?

If you have hillside to deal with then it is a viable option. My home built in 1985 and garage built in '91 both have extensive frost walls below grade and stepped foundations. As mentioned, excellent drainage plan is a must, pitch away from the structures a plus.

I personally would not do the concrete myself, I did not, I hired excellent mud monkeys to do that. Well worth it in my opinion.

I built the structures but hired out anything that had to do with mud, foundations, chimneys and sheetrock taping.

Anyway, the foundations are dry as a bone to this day, use PlyBar Plus in the floor also before pouring the slabs in the foundations... keeps frost and moisture at bay.

Nice, simple design you have there.

Best,
Rob


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Old 06-21-2013, 05:53 PM   #5472
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I built the structures but hired out anything that had to do with mud, foundations, chimneys and sheetrock taping.

Wise men know their limits.
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Old 06-23-2013, 08:11 AM   #5473
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Why did you contract out sheetrock taping? I thought it's relatively painless... at least it was last time I did it. I'm about to finish the drywall in the shed... just have to entice my electrician buddy to come over and do some wiring before. Than off to do the floor.

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Old 06-23-2013, 04:06 PM   #5474
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Why did you contract out sheetrock taping? I thought it's relatively painless... at least it was last time I did it. I'm about to finish the drywall in the shed... just have to entice my electrician buddy to come over and do some wiring before. Than off to do the floor.

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I wanted the finished walls to look good... I was not certain that I could do that good of a job and I did not want to put myself under that pressure. The job was fairly cheap by comparison to my trying it and really having the job suck...

It is also the same reason I hate to do body work, I would rather build three engines than push sandpaper on one tank. I like to support the local economy.

Now, see, you can do the electrical and not have to wait on that Buddy. Unless that is not allowed by code in your area.
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Old 06-25-2013, 09:32 AM   #5475
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I don't mind sanding/taping etc, but very uncomfortable with electric work... Supporting your local economy is always a good idea.
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