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Old 03-16-2007, 05:06 PM   #1
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Fast Carb Question

its not a fast carb, but this question is pretty quick:

I'm disassembling the carb right now, and I've got it down to the last thing.
That would be the large needle. I can't get it out of the cylinder. Unless I'm mistaken there is a flathead screw down the small diam tube that will release it, yes? Is my screw just real tight?

Or: how do I get the needle out?

Thanks--

J

oh, yea.. this is a stock Bing CV off a '90 PD. thx.
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Old 03-16-2007, 05:47 PM   #2
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You mean the needle valve that sticks out from the bottom of the slide?

If so . . The needles on the CV carbs that I've repaired were held in place by gravity.

- Jim

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Old 03-16-2007, 05:56 PM   #3
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I may have answered my own question, but on the Max BMW diagram



I think the problem lies around part #20. cant get that bugger to move. ANd therefore the needle wont come out. I'm going to go get a bigger hammer and try that.
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Old 03-16-2007, 06:01 PM   #4
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did you try any loosening oils? As someone who has destroyed several stuck carb components lately, take ol' Ben Franks advice: Haste makes waste; hell, at least it is an sluminum part, and not that crappy self destructive brass!
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Old 03-16-2007, 06:09 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wintonio
did you try any loosening oils? As someone who has destroyed several stuck carb components lately, take ol' Ben Franks advice: Haste makes waste; hell, at least it is an sluminum part, and not that crappy self destructive brass!
as much WD40 as doing it in the living room will allow, and as far as haste: sage advice. Carrying on.
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Old 03-16-2007, 06:38 PM   #6
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Boil it in water for 10 minutes or so, wrap it in a dishtowel and try to loosen it. Make sure the screwdriver fits properly, if you need to grind it down to get a tight fit in the slot do that. If after a couple tries it is still stuck, put some oil on it and let it sit overnight. Also, use a screwdriver with a boss so you can put a wrench on it. Not to apply gorilla torque but so you can concentrate on keeping it snug in the slot.
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Old 03-16-2007, 07:35 PM   #7
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its being unreasonable.

It wont submit to heat or noxious chemicals.


or having insulting remarks shouted at it, either.



even the dogs left the room.








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Old 03-17-2007, 01:07 AM   #8
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Here's the trick: The needle is held in there by two straight pieces of wire that interlock with the notches.

The notches on the needle are 90 degrees from each other. So here's what you do: Your needles are probably in the third notch, so you'll have to do this a couple of times - twist the needle 90 degrees and pull gently on it while twisting. You'll feel it snap into the next notch. Do that again to get it into the first notch. Finally the last time it'll come out.

Once you get it out it'll be obvious. Pretty simple really.
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Old 03-17-2007, 07:07 AM   #9
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It took me a while to comprehend the first time I did it, but tvrla is correct. Force will only cost you money, finesse is the key here- Good luck!
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Old 03-17-2007, 09:38 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tvrla
Here's the trick: The needle is held in there by two straight pieces of wire that interlock with the notches.

The notches on the needle are 90 degrees from each other. So here's what you do: Your needles are probably in the third notch, so you'll have to do this a couple of times - twist the needle 90 degrees and pull gently on it while twisting. You'll feel it snap into the next notch. Do that again to get it into the first notch. Finally the last time it'll come out.

Once you get it out it'll be obvious. Pretty simple really.

So are you saying that I dont need to mess with the screwplug at all? (part #20, above)

I think I understand what youre saying about the notches, but that seems odd.. the new ones aren't devised that way.. and I dont recall the others I've seen to be that way-- they were just concentric rings in the top of the needles... not squared off on the sides.
Possibly I've misunderstood you, though.

I'll be taking the other one apart only this far, to check it against.

My gut feeling is that the screwplug backs out, and the needle and retaining ring just fall out the top. I've fallen into a stuck screw gumption trap.

Thanks for your help, though!

J
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Old 03-17-2007, 09:49 AM   #11
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It's not a matter of pulling. You twist the needle. Clean it of oil so the surface is not slick. Use a rubber glove and you should be able to twist with your fingers. If not use pliers with a rag, twist hard, pull gently. It will click loose one notch at a time. The notches are 90 degrees apart. There is no set screw or any fastnerer other than the spring clip inside that opens as you twist. Putting them back in the correct position is tricky because you have to count the 90 degree twists to know which notch is engaged.
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Old 03-17-2007, 09:57 AM   #12
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did you try heat yet? Naturally, make sure no excess gas resides, but maybe even holding a match to it will loosen it up.

Am I reading this right that the needle itself won't come out or that the part you showed in teh diagram won't come out.
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Old 03-17-2007, 10:17 AM   #13
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STOP
You are talking about 2 different carbs.
The 32mm Bings have the screw in the slide that holds the needle in.

The 40mm bings are the ones that you turn the needle to change the setting or remove it.
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Old 03-17-2007, 10:46 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by widebmw
STOP
You are talking about 2 different carbs.
The 32mm Bings have the screw in the slide that holds the needle in.

The 40mm bings are the ones that you turn the needle to change the setting or remove it.
Yes, thanks, its the 32's... those are stock for the '90 PD, correct?

Dat: its the screw that wont come out.
Yes to heat, yes to pentrating oils. No to success. At this point, I definitely need a new screw plug. Hopefully will get it out before I need a new slide.

We shall overcome.


Hey-- RocketJ? In the very back corner of my head I remembered I read here somewhere about the two small flathead screws holding the throttleplate to the throttle shaft being Peened, and the ends need to be ground off to avoid trashing the tiny fine threads on the throttle shaft upon removal... Is this true?

And also that they need to be peened again when installed to insure they dont back out and get sucked into the cylinder. Truth, or airhead legend?

Throttle shafts are relatively cheap, I'm not so concerned if I ruined the threads for the lesson. Stupid Slide's for this carb damn near 1/4 the price of a brand new carb, and thats not even my fault, so I'm pissed.

thank you thank you.

J
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Old 03-17-2007, 11:09 AM   #15
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Yes the 32's are stock on the US models the 40's were stock for the rest of the world.
How about cold, dry ice ? then hot ?
Easy out ?
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