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Old 12-22-2008, 11:11 AM   #91
warewolf
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Location: Nelson, New Zealand
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My bike exhibits the same behaviour. If the starter is dragging on the kick-start, I hit the starter button and it usually fires... my battery is good.
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All racers I know aren't in it for the money. They race because it's something inside of them... They're not courting death. They're courting being alive.
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Old 12-27-2008, 12:13 PM   #92
makazica
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Location: Zagreb, Croatia
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Fuckup #1

Soooo, fuckup #1, also known as starter clutch fuckup....
What I did: wanted to clean the little spring on the side of the cylinder head that makes the lever go back (it didn't want to go back, was quite dirty so I wanted to clean and grease the whole thing).

What happened: the little nut went inside and I couldn't get it back out, tried fitting the screw in it to pull it out, but (as you can guess) the screw is also inside now.....

I'm not a happy camper & I feel quite stupid.
Pic:



And, yes, already checking creep's "radiator removal" guide.....
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Old 12-28-2008, 02:15 AM   #93
warewolf
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Yes, see if you can get the nut & screw out through the valve cover. Don't know what else may have disassembled inside.

btw that is the decompression lever, nothing to do with the starter clutch. You haven't even started to fuckup the starter clutch, but keep us posted when you do, eh?
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KTM LC4 640 Question? Check here first --> KTM LC4 (640) Index Thread
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve McQueen
All racers I know aren't in it for the money. They race because it's something inside of them... They're not courting death. They're courting being alive.
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Old 12-28-2008, 03:00 AM   #94
makazica
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Thanks warewolf, sorry about naming it wrong, it is the decompression lever....this thread seemed closest to the topic I'm fucking up. So, the radiators have to go off, the valve cover has to go off and I'll have to put a new gasket when assembling it....

From what I can see on the pictures, there's nothing to get disassembled inside, only thing that I'm concerned is adjusting it on the inside.

And, oh yes, you all will be up to date with me fucking up....
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Old 12-28-2008, 08:34 AM   #95
gunnerbuck
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You do not need to remove the rads, only the rad fan and the top fitting on the oil line {to give it some slack}.... http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=112127
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Old 12-28-2008, 01:05 PM   #96
makazica
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gunnerbuck....is it a problem to refit it by just removing the valve cover?
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Old 12-28-2008, 02:01 PM   #97
gunnerbuck
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If the whole thing didn't push too far in then yes you should be able to take the little inspection cover off and slide the shaft back in with your finger.... The flat side on the decomp shaft faces forward....
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Old 12-28-2008, 02:20 PM   #98
makazica
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Thanks for the info, would you know what loctite sealant to use?
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Old 12-28-2008, 04:57 PM   #99
gunnerbuck
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If your talking sealant for the little cover, it has a gasket so none should be required... I usually reuse the gaskets 2 or 3 times before replacing with a new one and they have never leaked.... No loctite is called for on the decompshaft allen screw but a little grease on the O-ring shouldnt hurt...

As for the rocker cover itself I have had better luck using the ThreeBond 1211 over the Hondabond stuff for some reason.... The Hondabond goes about 5-10 K before it blows out and starts leaking at the front of the cover as to where the 1211 hasn't failed me yet even at double that milage....
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Old 12-30-2008, 01:54 AM   #100
makazica
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OK, managed to fix the decompression lever. Opened the little front (exhaust?) valve cover, pushed the rod outwards and all seems fine now...decompression works.

gunnerbuck...thanks for the tips, you were right, no loctite, just the gasket, which was fine so I cleaned it, oiled it and reused it.

Just two more questions:
1. Do I have to bleed the oil circuit now (because I took of that cover and a rubber hose leading to/from the frame?)

2. Would it be good to check the valves when taking of the cover? (valves had been checked around 1000 km ago as a part of 15000km service interval checks, oil change....and stuff)

Thanks!
M.
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Old 12-30-2008, 02:12 AM   #101
warewolf
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No need to bleed the oil circuit, that only has to be done when you drain the frame oil store.

Normally I would say no, don't bother checking the valve clearances. BUT given the rocker arm roller bearing failure issue, I would at least measure the clearances now. Typically these valves bed in over the first 5-10,000km then don't move much at all. IF they move noticeably, it will likely be the roller bearings failing.
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KTM LC4 640 Question? Check here first --> KTM LC4 (640) Index Thread
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve McQueen
All racers I know aren't in it for the money. They race because it's something inside of them... They're not courting death. They're courting being alive.
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Old 12-30-2008, 02:21 AM   #102
makazica
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warewolf...quick&precise....thanks..

I think I'll skip valve checking this time....the mechanic at the local dealership said valves were fine....

Because of my poor mechanical knowledge, I choose not to mess with bearings (also I don't own a torque wrench and a bearing puller) so it could get complicated if I start messing 'round.

But I can't say I have not been warned!!
M.
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Old 03-18-2009, 03:44 PM   #103
dirtyherby
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Thumb flywheel puller

What size (mm) is the flywheel puller you used? I bought one that is supposed to work (26mm,1.0 threads) but it is too small.I had another around (yam,I think 30mm,1.5 threads) & it is too small too.I'm guessing 33mm or 34mm,1.5 threads? Can you help? Thanks.
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Old 03-18-2009, 05:14 PM   #104
Oddbawl
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33mm x 1.5mm, internal RH threads. I just bought one, and it fits. Motion Pro makes one, part # C08-0390A.

I'm about to do the repair myself, but before I order parts or seals depending on the situation, I'm going to pull it apart and have a look. Is there any reason why I can't run the bike with the starter clutch removed, or does it need to be in there, working or not? (till the parts come in ...)
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Old 04-16-2009, 01:56 PM   #105
jaybob
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Has anyone found a good source for the garter spring?

I called my local gasket and seal company and he couldn't find the SKF #19993 in his stock but could cross reference with any number of brands, I just couldn't tell him what brand...

I will be going over there to measure some by hand, unless someone has an online source.

Just to reiterate

It's 1.4 mm wide and off of a 50 mm seal right?
Thanks

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