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Old 09-13-2012, 07:24 AM   #15736
Starchamp
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike_drz View Post

Austrian understands what's this
The most overly-complicated gearing calculator ever? :-)
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Old 09-13-2012, 08:14 AM   #15737
The Recycled Teenager
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HellSickle View Post

We were in the hills singing for a 3 day trip this past weekend. I was last on this trail 2 years ago with the DRZ. The DRZ wasn't a lot of fun in steep terrain like this at 10k'.

Nice location, have you been up this as well as down
Wish I was twenty five years younger
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Old 09-13-2012, 08:32 AM   #15738
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Recycled Teenager View Post
Nice location, have you been up this as well as down
Wish I was twenty five years younger
Well..... I've ridden an XR600 up that. Nowadays there's an alternate route. If I were 25 years younger, I might also be inclined to ride up that just for kicks. To make matters worse, there is a sharp switchback filled with loose rocks right before the hill.
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Old 09-13-2012, 11:35 AM   #15739
MotoTex
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sevenpointsixtwo View Post
Has anyone here found a good solution to the 4+ gallon IMS tank radiator "wings" conundrum? By this I mean, a fair bit of fuel is stored lower than the petcock on each side and is inaccessible! Not only does this waste space and weight when the tank is "empty", but it lessens range to only about 200 miles.

I was thinking about running fuel lines from the reserve side of the petcock down into the wings of the tank, but with a gravity-fed carb, this probably wouldn't work as I think the wings are even lower than the float. Is this just a quirk we have to live with or is there a solution?

A Mikuni Vacuum-operated fuel pump will suck that which won't gravity feed from the bowels of the wings.

Getting the internal, reserve plumbing accomplished will be a trick. Consider some sort of "clunk" (RC aircraft term) for the line going into the wings. It is a weight at the end of the line to keep it in the bottom. Could also run a wire in each of the "Y-ed" lines, and shape it to keep them in place.

Hope this helps.
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Old 09-13-2012, 12:06 PM   #15740
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[QUOTE=JaySee;19579460]When I first got my DRZ I thought it was loosing oil, /QUOTE]

After reading so many posts in threads about loosing oil I'm losing my mind trying to figure out a method to determine how and where the oil is loosening.

Should it be tighter?

How do you check it for looseness?



(jk)

Brought to you by the AIA (Anti-Illiterati Association) working to prevent world domination by the secret society known as The Illiterati.
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Old 09-13-2012, 12:37 PM   #15741
The Recycled Teenager
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sevenpointsixtwo View Post
Has anyone here found a good solution to the 4+ gallon IMS tank radiator "wings" conundrum? By this I mean, a fair bit of fuel is stored lower than the petcock on each side and is inaccessible! Not only does this waste space and weight when the tank is "empty", but it lessens range to only about 200 miles.

I was thinking about running fuel lines from the reserve side of the petcock down into the wings of the tank, but with a gravity-fed carb, this probably wouldn't work as I think the wings are even lower than the float. Is this just a quirk we have to live with or is there a solution?
Keep us all up to speed on this one and please take pictures
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Old 09-13-2012, 01:43 PM   #15742
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Starchamp View Post
The most overly-complicated gearing calculator ever? :-)

not fully understood yet
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Old 09-13-2012, 04:31 PM   #15743
The Recycled Teenager
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HellSickle View Post
Well..... I've ridden an XR600 up that. Nowadays there's an alternate route. If I were 25 years younger, I might also be inclined to ride up that just for kicks. To make matters worse, there is a sharp switchback filled with loose rocks right before the hill.
LOVE loose rocks if they are no bigger than a grapefruit, my DR seems very comfortable on them
Or maybe its my trials experience, just maybe
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Old 09-14-2012, 09:19 AM   #15744
princess jamaica
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'01 400e

Just picked this up and am loving it so far.Going to split it's time from street to easy forest roads.What do you recommend carrying for tools/spares?Thanks.
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Old 09-14-2012, 10:35 AM   #15745
yosso
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Tools...

Quote:
Originally Posted by princess jamaica View Post
Just picked this up and am loving it so far.Going to split it's time from street to easy forest roads.What do you recommend carrying for tools/spares?Thanks.
I've got a rack with a Pelican case mounted - but I've seen a tool tube used (again tied to the rack). I also swapped over to a "S" rear sub-frame to have additional options for carrying "stuff".



JackPiner57 makes rack for both the "S" and the "E" models.

I think that the "S" came stock with a small tool bag on the rear fender - but I could be wrong.

Good luck and have fun!

M.
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Old 09-14-2012, 10:46 AM   #15746
Eddy Alvarez
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Any major changes over the years?

DRZ400S guru's: DRZ noob here with a quick question...

I am looking at getting a DRZ as my TW200 (just sold) was too slow, weak, lacking in suspension and brakes and my R1200GS is too akward and heavy for the stuff I am riding now. This is what I have found "locally" (less than 2 hours drive)

A: 2002, 6000 miles, very clean, just passed inspection for $2200 out the door.
B: 2006, 10,000 miles, very clean, for $3708 out the door.
C: 2009, 6,000 miles, as NEW, for $4400 (maybe a little wiggle room)

My question is: Have there been major changes to this bike during the last 10 years or are there any major flaws on the 2000-2006 bikes that were engineered out in the later models or would I be fine with the 2002 at almost half the price?

Thanks!
http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?p=19592751#post19592751
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Old 09-14-2012, 10:58 AM   #15747
yosso
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eddy Alvarez View Post
DRZ400S guru's: DRZ noob here with a quick question...

I am looking at getting a DRZ as my TW200 (just sold) was too slow, weak, lacking in suspension and brakes and my R1200GS is too akward and heavy for the stuff I am riding now. This is what I have found "locally" (less than 2 hours drive)

A: 2002, 6000 miles, very clean, just passed inspection for $2200 out the door.
B: 2006, 10,000 miles, very clean, for $3708 out the door.
C: 2009, 6,000 miles, as NEW, for $4400 (maybe a little wiggle room)

My question is: Have there been major changes to this bike during the last 10 years or are there any major flaws on the 2000-2006 bikes that were engineered out in the later models or would I be fine with the 2002 at almost half the price?

Thanks!
http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?p=19592751#post19592751
All "S" models above or are any of them "E" models?

I'd say go for the the 2002 - why pay twice as much for a 2009 when nothing has really changed (except the cam chain tensioner), but I'm far from a guru.
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Old 09-14-2012, 11:29 AM   #15748
SSG B
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ifixfords View Post
My old Baja designs tail light finally bit the dust. Just installed this Edge 2 led light. Install was easy and it works great. Got it from Wheeling cycle supply, great service.





DRZ400E Tagged
KTM200XC-W

Looks WAY better than the Baja Designs light. Hmmmm....perhaps mine should have an "accident" this weekend so I to can upgrade>
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Old 09-14-2012, 02:06 PM   #15749
One Less Harley
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FMF Q4 install with a twist

I purchased the FMF Q4 for my DRZ 400S, and wanted to put the pipe heat guard on it. I don't like the clamp on so the stock one was recycled. Unfortunately the mounting brackets on the original pipe are steel, but thet were welded on anyway. Still need to add the muffler heat shield, but need to find some closed rivets.

old brackets welded in place-



heat shield installed-



Muffler-

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Old 09-15-2012, 11:53 AM   #15750
Ryel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by princess jamaica View Post
Just picked this up and am loving it so far.Going to split it's time from street to easy forest roads.What do you recommend carrying for tools/spares?Thanks.
here is a short history of the DRZ400:
http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/642...e-drz-history/

as you can see, there is not much you need to do to the E model, just ride and enjoy.

you might want to carry a tube, spoons and air pump but for easy forest roads I doubt that you will ever need them. The bike will just keep on going.

you may want to review the list:
http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/939...-common-maint/
and make sure all are done so that you don't get stranded with a known failure.
enjoy
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