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Old 11-14-2012, 10:30 AM   #16441
Ogre_fl
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Location: Cook Bayou, FL
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Touchy front brake light switch

I was informed yesterday that my brake light is flashing on & off when I am running around 65 mph.

I am pretty sure its my front brake lever as the slightest movement activates the switch & light.

I loosened the screw underneath that holds the switch, but the switch does not want to turn. I assume it has some post it sits on/in.
I was hoping I could rotate it a bit.

Is there a way to adjust the switch so it does activate until the lever is pulled back more.
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Old 11-14-2012, 11:59 AM   #16442
TRZ Charlie
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Originally Posted by 0ldhippie View Post
Exactly! Bet there is lots of great open riding over there!
Funny, open isn't a word I'd use. Maybe I'm wrong though.
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Old 11-14-2012, 02:18 PM   #16443
The Recycled Teenager
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRZ Charlie View Post
Funny, open isn't a word I'd use. Maybe I'm wrong though.
Could also mean NOT closed by those darn authorities
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Old 11-14-2012, 03:24 PM   #16444
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Originally Posted by 955616846 View Post
Bugger me!!! How about resizing your images.

right click, view image...........
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Son, don't force that , get a bigger hammer....
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Old 11-14-2012, 05:09 PM   #16445
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Originally Posted by timsgs View Post
right click, view image...........
Smart ass

Good spot though
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Old 11-14-2012, 05:55 PM   #16446
150ron
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Hey drz'ers, i find that with the new 16T front sprocket my chain is way too tight, even on the flat part of the snails, BEFORE the 0, how do i go about adding another link to my chain? one link will make it perfect, i have the master link on it that i can remove and re install, so how would i add another link? or would it be easier and cheaper to just remove the chain again and take it to the mx shop for them to do it, i have no chain tools what so ever.
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Old 11-14-2012, 08:11 PM   #16447
340hp
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Originally Posted by 150ron View Post
Hey drz'ers, i find that with the new 16T front sprocket my chain is way too tight, even on the flat part of the snails, BEFORE the 0, how do i go about adding another link to my chain? one link will make it perfect, i have the master link on it that i can remove and re install, so how would i add another link? or would it be easier and cheaper to just remove the chain again and take it to the mx shop for them to do it, i have no chain tools what so ever.
You need two links, a narrow link & another master link, or you need to add a half-link.

A half link looks like the upper center link in this photo... between two master links, and above a narrow link.

https://www.denniskirk.com/520-stand...it.p113131.prd

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Old 11-15-2012, 07:59 AM   #16448
150ron
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 340hp View Post
You need two links, a narrow link & another master link, or you need to add a half-link.

A half link looks like the upper center link in this photo... between two master links, and above a narrow link.

https://www.denniskirk.com/520-stand...it.p113131.prd

Thanks for that, is it safe to have 2 master links on?
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Old 11-15-2012, 08:16 AM   #16449
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I'm sure you know, but if you have the "O" ring chain use the oring master
just to be said
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Old 11-15-2012, 09:07 AM   #16450
340hp
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Originally Posted by 150ron View Post
Thanks for that, is it safe to have 2 master links on?
Yes. Two master links are preferred to a half-link, The half-link is more of an emergency measure to get out of trouble.

Just keep the master links clips facing the correct direction, and use the same style links as the chain (o-ring, x-ring, or standard chain).

It used to be common to carry two countershaft sprockets and a short length of chain to allow a lower final drive ratio change when you got to the riding area, and then back to highway gearing before you hit the pavement to return home. This was much easier with cushion hubs as the countershaft did not receive the shock loading from the road with the cush drive, and as a result you did not need to lock down the countershaft sprocket as much. Normal bike tools were capable of wrenching the countershaft sprocket change. A 15 tooth change to a 13 tooth countershaft sprocket will make a significant gearing change, equivalent to a six toot increase on the rear sprocket count, and the parts easily fit in a baggie in a jacket pocket.

The DRZ400 countershaft experiences more shock through the rigid hub & rear sprocket, and the shock demands the locktite & bent french-lock washer to keep the nut from getting hammered loose. The extra torque and locking needed on the countershaft sprocket nut tend to discourage on the road gearing changes, but it's still a viable option with the tools.

You should also try to keep the sprockets tooth count in a odd bias, even tooth countershaft drive mixed with an odd tooth rear driven sprocket, even/odd or odd/even tooth combination. This prevents the chain from wearing in the same link repeating on the same tooth of the sprockets, causing an uneven wear pattern. The uneven wear will shorten both the sprockets and chain life. An odd/odd sprocket tooth combination is also not bad, but an even/even tooth sprocket combination should always be avoided if possible to prevent an poor wear pattern and short sprocket life.

.
.
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Old 11-15-2012, 10:35 AM   #16451
150ron
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 340hp View Post
Yes. Two master links are preferred to a half-link, The half-link is more of an emergency measure to get out of trouble.

Just keep the master links clips facing the correct direction, and use the same style links as the chain (o-ring, x-ring, or standard chain).

It used to be common to carry two countershaft sprockets and a short length of chain to allow a lower final drive ratio change when you got to the riding area, and then back to highway gearing before you hit the pavement to return home. This was much easier with cushion hubs as the countershaft did not receive the shock loading from the road with the cush drive, and as a result you did not need to lock down the countershaft sprocket as much. Normal bike tools were capable of wrenching the countershaft sprocket change. A 15 tooth change to a 13 tooth countershaft sprocket will make a significant gearing change, equivalent to a six toot increase on the rear sprocket count, and the parts easily fit in a baggie in a jacket pocket.

The DRZ400 countershaft experiences more shock through the rigid hub & rear sprocket, and the shock demands the locktite & bent french-lock washer to keep the nut from getting hammered loose. The extra torque and locking needed on the countershaft sprocket nut tend to discourage on the road gearing changes, but it's still a viable option with the tools.

You should also try to keep the sprockets tooth count in a odd bias, even tooth countershaft drive mixed with an odd tooth rear driven sprocket, even/odd or odd/even tooth combination. This prevents the chain from wearing in the same link repeating on the same tooth of the sprockets, causing an uneven wear pattern. The uneven wear will shorten both the sprockets and chain life. An odd/odd sprocket tooth combination is also not bad, but an even/even tooth sprocket combination should always be avoided if possible to prevent an poor wear pattern and short sprocket life.

.
.
That is some great info, thanks a lot

the front is now a 16T, the rear is the stock 44, so they are both even, not good according to what you say, i will have to see how to go about changing that.
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Old 11-15-2012, 12:12 PM   #16452
Starchamp
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 340hp View Post
You should also try to keep the sprockets tooth count in a odd bias, even tooth countershaft drive mixed with an odd tooth rear driven sprocket, even/odd or odd/even tooth combination. This prevents the chain from wearing in the same link repeating on the same tooth of the sprockets, causing an uneven wear pattern. The uneven wear will shorten both the sprockets and chain life. An odd/odd sprocket tooth combination is also not bad, but an even/even tooth sprocket combination should always be avoided if possible to prevent an poor wear pattern and short sprocket life.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 150ron View Post
the front is now a 16T, the rear is the stock 44, so they are both even, not good according to what you say, i will have to see how to go about changing that.
I think the chain link count factors into this somehow, because I run 16/39 on my SM wheels, and I can easily tell that the inner chain links wear on the same place on the CS. I mitigate this by aligning the chain to a different tooth every time I reinstall the SM set-up.
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Old 11-15-2012, 12:58 PM   #16453
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Price drop!!!!!!!!!!

Any body need rack for DRZ! Best price ever!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...667912&page=13
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Old 11-15-2012, 08:20 PM   #16454
fifthcircle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timsgs View Post
right click, view image...........
Fucking genius!: lol2



S vs SM:
It sounds like you will be on the pavement more. I think the SM would fit "your bill" best.

If I am wrong, and you will be in the dirt for more than not...the S may be the better choice.

Buying new? I may have missed that if you mentioned it....but I would think you could get a used S cheaper than an SM, simply because there are more of them.

Either way, get a new seat and let'r rip!

Sent from my fat thumbs on a small touch screen.
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Old 11-16-2012, 04:39 AM   #16455
mark1150
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my latest steed, bought a couple of days ago to supplement my trusty XR 400R.
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