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10-09-2012, 06:43 PM
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#16471 | |
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Old & beat up
Joined: Nov 2008
Location: Fayetteville, AR
Oddometer: 11,086
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Quote:
On the S the box vents to the Air box boot which effectively feeds your engine a VERY small amount of warm synthetic or petroleum based mist. Not much advantageadmittedly but it will leak oil onto the swing arm, shock and maybe to the brake disc. They both (E & S) have the same box just a different hose routing for the box vent Shedding the box for weight reduction is a non event. It weighs next to nothing.
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Ride, Crash, Visit the ER, Get a splint, Recuperate, Assess your mistakes, Repair Motorcycle, Gather courage to ride again, Ride, Rinse & Repeat My SPOT - No tracks = not riding | Mapsource Tutorial | Rides DRZ Charlie screwed with this post 10-09-2012 at 08:34 PM |
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10-09-2012, 07:04 PM
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#16472 |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Mount Clemens, MI
Oddometer: 208
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Swapped out my white brothers exhaust for a stock one...all is quiet now. Damn carb keeps flooding and overflowing with fuel though, so I just ordered a rebuild kit. I can't say that I'm looking forward to pulling the carb. It's alot more of a detailed job than I am used to doing. I'm not going to rejet just yet because I just got my endorsement and I figured I'd get a feel for it first before I go modding the carb.
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10-09-2012, 08:10 PM
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#16473 |
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Adventurer
Joined: Sep 2005
Location: Fernie, BC
Oddometer: 46
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horn sounds muffled
I just put on some new rad guards (Flatland racing) and my horn seems to be really muffled , barely audible....... Why ?
Also are there any good upgraded horns for the drz? thanks.
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Thanks! 2006 DRZ400-s |
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10-09-2012, 08:30 PM
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#16474 | |
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Old & beat up
Joined: Nov 2008
Location: Fayetteville, AR
Oddometer: 11,086
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Quote:
The following procedure looks complicated but it's really not. 1. Remove the seat and side plastics 2. Remove any pannier racks from the frame and sub-frame 3. Loosen the lower sub-frame bolts but don't remove 4. Loosen and remove the upper subframe bolts (you will remove them in step 10.) 5. Remove the fuel and vent lines from the carb 6. Loosen the upper nuts on the throttle cables. Leave the bottom ones alone to help index where the throttle cables were previously adjusted. 7. Remove the throttle cables from the carburetor taking note of which is the front cable and which is the back. 8. Loosen the carb boot clamp between the motor and carb 9. Loosen the carb boot clamp between the carb and airbox 10. Remove the upper sub-frame bolts then spread the sub-frame from the main frame 11. Wiggle the carb out and do whatever you need to. 12. Reverse the process to re-install. Use a light coating of grease on the boots (leading edges) to help with the re-installation of the carb.
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Ride, Crash, Visit the ER, Get a splint, Recuperate, Assess your mistakes, Repair Motorcycle, Gather courage to ride again, Ride, Rinse & Repeat My SPOT - No tracks = not riding | Mapsource Tutorial | Rides DRZ Charlie screwed with this post 10-09-2012 at 08:36 PM |
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10-10-2012, 09:07 AM
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#16475 | |
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Beastly Adventurer
Joined: Sep 2010
Location: Oz
Oddometer: 1,692
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Quote:
The Hella Super tone kit (HL85115) is a good one. If only one horn is to be fitted then I'd suggest the lower frequency (300Hz HL85113) as it penetrates a bit better.
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Cheers, Numbers 05 R1200GS, 11 TE630, 11 DR-Z462, 09 990AR, 12 R1200RT, 12 VFR800 Founding member Longtails SC |
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10-10-2012, 10:40 AM
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#16476 | |
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ride2discover
Joined: May 2007
Location: Phoenix,Az
Oddometer: 3,180
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Quote:
http://www.hyderacing.com/db_dawg.htm
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DR-Z400E 00 - DR650SE 02. Je ne suis Jamais a l'aise que lorsque je termine mon parcours, parlant d'Enduro bien sure. "DR650sEDDY". |
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10-10-2012, 11:13 AM
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#16477 | |
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Scone Rider
Joined: Sep 2005
Location: Fort Collins
Oddometer: 6,720
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Quote:
If I'm doing much street on a given bike, I'll get a car horn from the auto parts store. That requires the addition of a relay.
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We don't stop riding because we get old, we get old because we stop riding. |
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10-10-2012, 09:22 PM
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#16478 | |
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Banned
Joined: Jul 2012
Location: somewhere near the beach
Oddometer: 402
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Quote:
Right on top of the air filter inside the air box, I think there are enough space for a LiFe pack drill a few holes underneath ecu, to put zip ties to secure the pack. use dean plugs or rc car connectors, it can save big time to remove, recharge or simply disconnect
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10-11-2012, 09:41 AM
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#16479 | |
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Beastly Adventurer
Joined: May 2007
Location: Cape Coral, Fl.
Oddometer: 2,113
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Quote:
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
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Alex Cape Coral, Fl. 2003 KLX400R tagged
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10-11-2012, 07:30 PM
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#16480 |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Jan 2011
Location: San Diego
Oddometer: 254
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DRZ400E ride report video - Lobsters in Puerto Nuevo, Baja California
Hello fellow DRZers, I thought I'd share this here for you guys. I hope you enjoy it!
My E handled the trails superbly and I caught myself hauling the mail in certain sections. I really need to get my stabilizer rebuilt cause I smacked a few of those rocks pretty hard while moving at speed. We had a range of bikes from my E all the way to a Scrambler 900cc. What do you guys think of the video? Hows the length, editing, footage and/or song? I appreciate your thoughts and advice because I want to make the most entertaining ride report videos that I can. Length 2:35. Watch in 720p for best picture . . . My E ![]() The Lobster ![]() The Route ![]() I ran this loop round trip from my house in San Diego. Pretty awesome and it was my first time riding in Mex. Rock on DRZers!
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I don't always crash... but when I do... I prefer to get it on camera Goofy Footer screwed with this post 10-12-2012 at 11:23 AM Reason: added pictures |
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10-12-2012, 07:35 AM
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#16481 |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Apr 2008
Location: Coarsegold, CA
Oddometer: 102
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What advantage does a steering stabilizer have on a bike such as a DRZ-S besides reducing funds in my bank account? Okay it stabilizes steering. What does that actually mean?
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10-12-2012, 08:27 AM
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#16482 | |
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Beastly Adventurer
Joined: Sep 2010
Location: Oz
Oddometer: 1,692
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Quote:
It reduces head shakes, but mostly keeps the wheel pointed in the right direction on impacts to the wheel or bars. You'd notice the benefits in gnarly rocky or rutted ground... or if a bar end clips a tree (within reason!) or cars(!) at speed just to mention a couple of scenarios. Some use them as a fix for poor riding technique in for example sand. Others use them as a band-aid fix for a badly behaving bike. If the suspension is not as good as it can be then empty your wallet into that before worrying about a damper. Until you identify a need, you probably won't benefit from one.
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Cheers, Numbers 05 R1200GS, 11 TE630, 11 DR-Z462, 09 990AR, 12 R1200RT, 12 VFR800 Founding member Longtails SC |
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10-12-2012, 08:31 AM
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#16483 | |
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Huh?
Joined: Apr 2009
Location: Fontuckey, CA
Oddometer: 508
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Quote:
They slow down those quick bar movements when you hit square-edged obstacles like rocks and other similar impediments. When set properly you don't even know you have one until it kicks in, and even then you don't really feel it it just quietly does its job. I love mine.
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Pauly '06 DR-Z400S |
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10-12-2012, 08:39 AM
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#16484 |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Jan 2011
Location: San Diego
Oddometer: 254
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The first two replies describe what a stabilizer/dampner does. Watch the bike's reaction when I slam into that at 1:34 of the video. That handlebar (and bike jerk) is what a a stabilizer/dampner slows down. Its hard to see in the video but I was caught off guard and nearly got bucked off the bike. Running fast for miles through those rocks, I was bound to hit one.
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I don't always crash... but when I do... I prefer to get it on camera |
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10-12-2012, 08:43 AM
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#16485 | |
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Beastly Adventurer
Joined: Sep 2010
Location: Oz
Oddometer: 1,692
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Quote:
__________________
Cheers, Numbers 05 R1200GS, 11 TE630, 11 DR-Z462, 09 990AR, 12 R1200RT, 12 VFR800 Founding member Longtails SC |
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