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Old 02-06-2013, 03:24 PM   #17296
threadkiller
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Joined: Jul 2007
Location: White House, Tennessee
Oddometer: 1,780
Quote:
Originally Posted by Smokeydrz View Post
Hi does anyone have an fmf q2 muffler? ive lost the screw that holds the spark arrestor in place and need to know its size

Thanks
I have an FMF. My screw fell out, as well as the spark arrester. I do know mine was a machine threaded, allen head cap screw. About 4 or 5 mm if I recall.
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Old 02-06-2013, 05:56 PM   #17297
bobbed06
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Joined: Aug 2010
Location: That one place......
Oddometer: 1,226
DRZ Hi/Lo beam doesnt work

So I went for a ride after work and the headlight worked fine. Then after this rough dirt road I lost BOTH my high and low beam. This evening I looked into it and had no 12v at the bulb connector, so I opened the headlight switch to discover the Yellow/White wire on the top of the switch had broke loose at the solder joint. I will resolder it tomorrow evening after work.

Just thought I would share....
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Old 02-06-2013, 05:58 PM   #17298
bobbed06
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blaster11 View Post
Picked up a Trail Tech Vapor for the DRZ and was wondering if there are any tricks to get the tachometer to work reliabily or just wrap it around the plug wire and call it good?

Thanks
Connect it directly the coil pack via a piggyback spade connector
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Old 02-06-2013, 06:04 PM   #17299
DualSportDad
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Location: Cape Coral, Fl.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blaster11 View Post
Anybody wired directly into the coil?
Mine is. Just cut the signal wire and solder and heart shrink it all together.

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Old 02-06-2013, 06:06 PM   #17300
DualSportDad
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Location: Cape Coral, Fl.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobbed06 View Post
Connect it directly the coil pack via a piggyback spade connector
Do not do this. You are asking for a corroded or broken wire. Use solder and Marine heat shrink.

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Old 02-06-2013, 06:24 PM   #17301
blaster11
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Originally Posted by DualSportDad View Post
Mine is. Just cut the signal wire and solder and heart shrink it all together.
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Old 02-06-2013, 08:11 PM   #17302
p0diabl0
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Joined: Feb 2011
Location: San Diego
Oddometer: 546
I just wrapped it... never had a problem in 4+ years.
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Old 02-07-2013, 01:59 AM   #17303
Adrian V
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Joined: Jul 2008
Location: Albany Western Australia
Oddometer: 479
Removing the helmet lock

I want to remove the helmet lock, but leave the frame tab behind to mount a tool tube, anyone know the easiest way to do this? It looks like I could drill out the bolts, is that the best way?

Cheers,

Adrian
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Old 02-07-2013, 03:28 AM   #17304
DRDeano
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adrian V View Post
I want to remove the helmet lock, but leave the frame tab behind to mount a tool tube, anyone know the easiest way to do this? It looks like I could drill out the bolts, is that the best way?

Cheers,

Adrian
Unlock it with the key then undo the screw behind the retracted bar. Easy!

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Old 02-07-2013, 04:02 AM   #17305
Adrian V
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What size bit?

God I feel dumb now . That looks like a tamper proof torx bit, any idea what size?

Cheers,

Adrian
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Old 02-07-2013, 05:07 AM   #17306
ifixfords
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Joined: Oct 2009
Location: Fuquay Varina
Oddometer: 277
Quote:
Originally Posted by ohgood View Post
Something is wrong with his jetting, brakes, or technique. S, SM, E will all walk along nice and slow with 14/47 (assuming 18/21" wheels on them) gearing just fine. Fix his jetting, no need in making miraculous claims about E's.
I beg to differ. I have a 2001 E and a 2004 S (with stock BSR). There is a big difference between the two (both are 14/47). The fcr carb has an accelerator pump, which is what changes the throttle response. If an E model doesn't perform better than a stock S or you have issues with starting there is something wrong. My E starts reliably hot or cold at temps from 100 F down to 25 F, it has the stock FCR jetted to match the full yosh system. Even a stock E should have better throttle response.

Don't get me wrong, there is nothing wrong with a stock S model. Just takes a little more clutch and rpm control compared to the E. Love my DRZs. :)
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Old 02-07-2013, 08:01 AM   #17307
luni
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Location: Hoke County
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Since it seems relevant once upon a time I heard from a guy (yup) that the slide in a vacuum carb could jostle a bit in washboard or rough track and make inconsistent fuel delivery even with steady throttle application just from the mechanics of the carb. A pumper carb, by design, doesn't have this problem making for quicker and more consistent throttle.

True? Outlandish hootenanny? Often unspoken benefit of pumper vs vacuum carb?

When I was rebuilding my S I got a great deal on a pumper carb and it made a complete difference from the jetted 3x3 I had before.
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I got a feeling the KTM would be like a hot girlfriend so fun to be with just not trust worthy.
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Old 02-07-2013, 08:59 AM   #17308
150ron
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For all you guys that went from the stock mikuni carb to the FCR, has your mpg's decreased by much?
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Old 02-07-2013, 09:57 AM   #17309
luni
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55mpg wide open everywhere to 45mpg on a good day.
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I got a feeling the KTM would be like a hot girlfriend so fun to be with just not trust worthy.
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Old 02-07-2013, 10:18 AM   #17310
ifixfords
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luni View Post
55mpg wide open everywhere to 45mpg on a good day.
+1

DRZ400E Tagged
KTM200XC-W ""
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