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Old 02-11-2013, 06:27 AM   #17371
WayneJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oclv454 View Post
Can someone recommend a good place to buy OEM replacement plastic body panels for my 2009 DRZ400S? I've found a few that sell after market, but wanted to compare the price to original. Thanks.
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Old 02-11-2013, 06:31 AM   #17372
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oclv454 View Post
Can someone recommend a good place to buy OEM replacement plastic body panels for my 2009 DRZ400S? I've found a few that sell after market, but wanted to compare the price to original. Thanks.
Wheeling Cycle Supply has a decent AM selection at decent prices, but Bike Bandit is the only place I know of that sells OEM parts. Though I'm sure there are others....
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Old 02-11-2013, 06:57 AM   #17373
buls4evr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oclv454 View Post
Can someone recommend a good place to buy OEM replacement plastic body panels for my 2009 DRZ400S? I've found a few that sell after market, but wanted to compare the price to original. Thanks.
The OEM stuff is ghastly expensive compared to aftermarket. Let's get that out of the way right now. It is also made better in the case of the front fender. The rears are cheesy and flimsy though. Aftermarket is just as good on side panels and shrouds. Like others have said, Wheeling Cycle Supply. Cheaper and lots of colors to choose from.
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Old 02-11-2013, 08:07 AM   #17374
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Talking High rpms

Hi back again, the maybe PO says that his DRZ revs 1000 rpm / 10 mph, a buzz that eventually will drive me mad or what?
Lazy revs are nice but then again some buzziness is Ok as long as it does emulate a vibrator for my hands and fingers and I get a pesky performance
Can I give it a cog or two to loose some revs or will this turn it into a sloth?.
Or should I just buy a KLR
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Old 02-11-2013, 08:56 AM   #17375
Ogre_fl
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The major drawback to the DRZ is its short ratio gear box.
With the "S" stock gearing it is just a tad too tall in first gear, so to me there is not a lot of room to go any higher with the gearing.

With stock gearing I can ride mine all day long around 60 mph true (65-68 mph on the speedo)
Around 65 true (72-74 mph on the speedo) I can still do but it becomes notably more tiresome.
Anything above that is maddening to me.

IMO as long as you mostly can stay around or under 60 mph true the bike is fine with stock gearing.
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Old 02-11-2013, 09:07 AM   #17376
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Originally Posted by Dirtmongrel View Post
Was the battery dead prior to charging it?

Don't forget about all the safety switches/interlocks... kickstand switch, clutch switch, neutral switch, start/stop switch. And the one of relays may stuck... the blinker relay behind the headlight is multifunction, your start button goes thru it.

lights should still go on before startup, the R/R shouldn't effect it at that point
The battery was low before I put it on the charger, but it had power to everything at that time also?? The charger did something to kill all the electrical ??
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Old 02-11-2013, 09:12 AM   #17377
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Hey guys,

I am going to be rebuilding the waterpump on the 400 in a couple weeks. Does anyone have a parts list of required gaskets and stuff i will need? Any advice appreciated thanks!
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Old 02-11-2013, 09:37 AM   #17378
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This has nothing to do with water pump rebuilds and everything to do with cattle dog profile pictures.
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Old 02-11-2013, 10:14 AM   #17379
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobfab View Post
Hey guys,

I am going to be rebuilding the waterpump on the 400 in a couple weeks. Does anyone have a parts list of required gaskets and stuff i will need? Any advice appreciated thanks!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2005-2006-20...c77f5f&vxp=mtr
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Old 02-11-2013, 10:21 AM   #17380
DR650SEDDY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by farkleface View Post
So.........I put a charger on my drz and forgot about it for over 24hours. When I took it off the charger and turned the key, the bike is dead. No lights, no anything. Also, I noticed the charger was set for a 12v 12a charge rate, which I know is way too much especially for that long. So I checked battery voltage and it is reading 13.4 . I checked fuse and it looks good. I checked voltage at plug between rectifier/regulator and battery and it is reading 13.4. I checked voltage at plug coming out of R/R and there is nothing. I am guessing the R/R is maybe bad? Any help would be appreciated before I order the RR.
Oh, and yes I already know I don't know what I'm doing and that I am an idiot
I had this happen to me once during a ride and i replaced the fuse located by the batterie. It was due to a short in the wires (under the headlight). U must a have a short somewhere.
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Old 02-11-2013, 10:30 AM   #17381
DR650SEDDY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rattis View Post
The PO has tuned the engine and it has, according to him, 50 hp on the wheel.

Andy
The only way to get to the vacinity of 50hp is to insatll the 469cc kit big bore cylinder work. They're around $800 give and take (just for parts).
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Old 02-11-2013, 11:10 AM   #17382
bobfab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DR650SEDDY View Post
the pump is leaking around the seals to the side case. Do you think it is recomended that i replace the whole water pump

I was hoping someone was familiar with what gaskets i needed (suzuki part numbers). thanks!

@luni; hahahah thanks man. Love ACD's
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Old 02-11-2013, 11:16 AM   #17383
Plane Dr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DR650SEDDY View Post
The only way to get to the vacinity of 50hp is to insatll the 469cc kit big bore cylinder work. They're around $800 give and take (just for parts).
Um no. If you go much bigger than 434cc on the cylinder you will have gasket issues among other things. 50 hp can be done fairly easy but it.s not just bore.

Mine is 55+ depending on the dyno (the base version ran 47-48 on C12). But that is also stroked to get the 469....and cammed, and ported with o/s valves, and carbed and piped.......
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Old 02-11-2013, 11:25 AM   #17384
DR650SEDDY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobfab View Post
the pump is leaking around the seals to the side case. Do you think it is recomended that i replace the whole water pump

I was hoping someone was familiar with what gaskets i needed (suzuki part numbers). thanks!
There's an o-ring/gasket sitting between the casing (of w/p) and engine if there's where the leak u might only need a gasket part # :
17435-29F00 $8.32
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Old 02-11-2013, 11:27 AM   #17385
bobfab
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Thanks, thats what i was looking for!
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