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Old 03-27-2013, 12:01 PM   #17986
DR650SEDDY
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Location: Phoenix,Az
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buliwyf View Post
Thanks. That aluminum MSR plate looks good.

So the smaller rear tire will be a bit more lively? Sounds good to me.
Msr that's what i got on mine but now it looks like the surface of the moon underneath. It still holding on good though.
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Old 03-27-2013, 02:41 PM   #17987
150ron
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kouba lowering links?

Any body on here install a kouba lowering link DRZ1 3/4'' on a DRZ400S?

Only 5'9, being able to only tippy toe the ground at long traffic lights is getting old, want to be able to have more footing on the ground.

What say you?

I ride 50/50, lots of street, and lots of hard trail riding.
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Old 03-27-2013, 05:31 PM   #17988
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i have installed a set on a drz250, worked well

have you looked at seat concepts short seat ?
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Old 03-27-2013, 05:45 PM   #17989
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I did. I have a 28"-ish inseam. I can tip toe both feet on ground at a stop light, or flat foot one pretty securely. I also have a seat concepts seat, which I use for longer rides. But if I am riding around town, or just a short half day ride where monkey butt isn't a concern, I put the Suzuki gel seat on instead. The seat concepts seat is flatter, but also wider. And that little bit of wideness is also present at the tank junction to the seat, so it splays my legs out just a little making the above comments more like only one foot tip toe on ground. The narrower gel seat helps get my feet to the ground. I also have supermoto rims and tires, and can say with 17" rims front and rear then all of this is a moot point... both feet no problem. And, unless I'm going to go really off road (which I have other bikes for enduro only) I've softened up the preload quite a bit, too. For reference, I am 5'8", maybe 5'9" if I stand up straight with good posture
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Old 03-27-2013, 06:24 PM   #17990
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i'm 6'2" with a 32" inseam

i have a taller seat on my drz250 with a stiffer spring, so i'm a bit tip toed on it but so comfy riding .

i ordered the tall seat concepts seat for the drz400 as well as that stiffer spring
so i might be near the same sort of issue with comfy to ride but not comfy at a red light
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Old 03-27-2013, 06:45 PM   #17991
The Recycled Teenager
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buliwyf View Post
Thanks. That aluminum MSR plate looks good.

So the smaller rear tire will be a bit more lively? Sounds good to me.
+1 on the MSR
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Old 03-27-2013, 06:48 PM   #17992
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Great looking bike......... Congrats

Quote:
Originally Posted by Buliwyf View Post
New guy bump. I'm a newb.

Just bought a 2012 Suzuki DRZ400 S:


I'd like to add:
Pirelli XCMH tires (no idea on sizes)
Rimlock on rear wheel. (no idea what size yet)
Taller Protaper SE ATV mid bars (stock are way too low)
TrailTech X2 light/ number plate (white)
Black Acherbis plastic and white side plates. (I keep OEM plastic on the wall, easier to sell that way)

Fender elimninator and tail light
Unibiker Radiator guards
Better skid plate. (No idea! Help?)
MRD SSR pipe (next year maybe)
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Old 03-27-2013, 06:55 PM   #17993
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Just listed my Corbin seat in the FM. If anyone's interested let me know.

Trying to sell it to finance a Seat Concepts.
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Old 03-27-2013, 06:55 PM   #17994
150ron
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Thanks for the info guys, i bought a used set of DRZ1'S 3/4 of an inch lower links from a member on TT, i will install them and report back of what i think of them.
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Old 03-27-2013, 07:28 PM   #17995
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Also, you may have to address the kickstand. I can't say it if will end up being too long after the bike is lowered as I put my lowering link on at the same time I put the 17" rims on, and with that combo (link and rims) I had to cut my kickstand down quite a bit. On an XR250R I have I also installed lowering links and the bike barely leans over on the stand now.
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Old 03-27-2013, 08:22 PM   #17996
Psycho18th
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 150ron View Post
Any body on here install a kouba lowering link DRZ1 3/4'' on a DRZ400S?

Only 5'9, being able to only tippy toe the ground at long traffic lights is getting old, want to be able to have more footing on the ground.

What say you?

I ride 50/50, lots of street, and lots of hard trail riding.
I have them on my E. Much better for stop lights and such. Just increase the spring preload a bit, and raise the forks in the triple clamps to keep it balanced. It will still sit low in back, but not terrible. Makes it track very well through fist sized rocks. Otherwise, I don't really like it off road as much. Steering is a bit slower, and it bottoms out much more often on anything with whoops. Biggest issue off road is the ground clearance suffers. The bash plate is doing a lot more bashing, got to keep the feet up off the pegs in ruts, etc. I'm thinking of going back to stock. Also, the rear tire with a tall bobby will hit the rear fender when bottomed out. Haven't that that issue with my more street worthy tires with the shorter knobs.
Psycho
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Old 03-27-2013, 08:37 PM   #17997
150ron
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edmoto View Post
Also, you may have to address the kickstand. I can't say it if will end up being too long after the bike is lowered as I put my lowering link on at the same time I put the 17" rims on, and with that combo (link and rims) I had to cut my kickstand down quite a bit. On an XR250R I have I also installed lowering links and the bike barely leans over on the stand now.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Psycho18th View Post
I have them on my E. Much better for stop lights and such. Just increase the spring preload a bit, and raise the forks in the triple clamps to keep it balanced. It will still sit low in back, but not terrible. Makes it track very well through fist sized rocks. Otherwise, I don't really like it off road as much. Steering is a bit slower, and it bottoms out much more often on anything with whoops. Biggest issue off road is the ground clearance suffers. The bash plate is doing a lot more bashing, got to keep the feet up off the pegs in ruts, etc. I'm thinking of going back to stock. Also, the rear tire with a tall bobby will hit the rear fender when bottomed out. Haven't that that issue with my more street worthy tires with the shorter knobs.
Psycho
Thanks guys, im getting the DRZ1 kouba lowering links, which only lowers the bike 3/4 of an inch, im buying it from a guy who had them on his DRZ, but then got the DRZ2'S, which lowers the bike 1.25 inches.

I will also slide up the front forks about 1/2 an inch.

3/4 of an inch should not be that much, i will try it out, see how i like it, if i dont ill just put the stockers back on, i know it should be nice on road, just need to take it on some black diamond trails and see how the bike does there.
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Old 03-28-2013, 04:02 AM   #17998
tdrrally
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i know some gncc racers that lower their bikes for the handling
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Old 03-28-2013, 04:46 AM   #17999
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buliwyf View Post
New guy bump. I'm a newb.


I'd like to add:
Pirelli XCMH tires (no idea on sizes)
Rimlock on rear wheel. (no idea what size yet) 2.15 rear, 1.6 front. Motion Pro.
Taller Protaper SE ATV mid bars (stock are way too low)
I did BRP Moto SUB mount, and triple clamp, with Pro Taper fat bar CR Mid.
TrailTech X2 light/ number plate (white)
Black Acherbis plastic and white side plates. (I keep OEM plastic on the wall, easier to sell that way)

Fender elimninator and tail light
I got mine from 12 o'clock labs. LED, and super bright. Might also want LED signals, they have them, too.
Unibiker Radiator Guards
Yup, got those.
Better skid plate. (No idea! Help?)
Tonn's Fabrication, very well made, like the way it mounts, too.
MRD SSR pipe (next year maybe)
JD jetting kit, Kientech needle, and 3x3, no change to exhaust.
Don't forget case savers, and handguards.
I did the highway dirtbikes set up, and am really pleased with it.
Also have ram mounts and doubletake mirrors on order
See replies in quote above...
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Bad Daddy screwed with this post 03-28-2013 at 04:53 AM
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Old 03-28-2013, 05:50 AM   #18000
Plane Dr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 955616846 View Post
Hi Adrian,

It is the model with the mechanical shutter for high and low. Bi-LED.... feeling rich?

The ECE bi-halogen is inexpensive at the moment if you have to buy it separately.

http://www.rallylights.com/SearchRes...CategoryID=568
Careful with RHD / LHD terminology on this site.

If you're looking to keep it legal, leave the 65W in the bi-halogen then put a HID high beam module (which is a very good light) on a switch and call it a driving light. Beyond that is your choice.

Oldcodger uses this combination on his DR-Z and is happy with the results.

.
All I can say is you blokes have deeper pockets than me.

I went to an HID replacement bulb and have swapped out to 2 LED from ADVmonster (sanjoh). I think I have around 4800 lumens pulling less than 24 watts. 1 flood 1 spot. I also use a "dimmer" that is pulse modulation it came to less than $250. The dimmer has a hi beam bypass which is wired to the stock switch.

The denali's are nice but wow $$$$$
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