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Old 05-30-2013, 06:34 PM   #18991
hasenwerk
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Joined: Sep 2008
Location: Quesnel, BC
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Originally Posted by MrBob View Post
Where would a guy look for that fairing?
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Originally Posted by GypsyWriter View Post
That's the same one we're looking at as well. We saw it in person on a DRZ up in Washington, it looks GOOD. No idea how well it lights or the durability so I'm eager for firsthand knowledge.
I have the latest Lynx on my bike -I like it! The lights are genuine Hella, mine are still halogen, but will install 3200K low / 4300K high HIDs in it soon. I don't like the headlight guard - blocks too much light and it looks like the bike is wearing sunglasses - will make my own out of a heavy rod for the outside and 1cm mesh for the interior. The adjustable windscreen is pretty decent although even with it all the way up it isn't as good as the Mirage 1 on my BMW 650 GS - but way better than no windscreen.
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Old 05-30-2013, 07:19 PM   #18992
MrBob
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Looks like I've joined the ranks of DRZ/KLX toasted cam chain tensioner folks.
I think I'll be ordering the Sisneros replacement chain and tensioner.
Any suggestions before I launch into this adventure?
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Old 05-31-2013, 06:04 AM   #18993
ohgood
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Originally Posted by MrBob View Post
Looks like I've joined the ranks of DRZ/KLX toasted cam chain tensioner folks.
I think I'll be ordering the Sisneros replacement chain and tensioner.
Any suggestions before I launch into this adventure?
you'll need a clutch side gasket, but the clutch cover casket is reusable, see a parts fiche, you'll understand :)

it doesn't take long, just make sure the cams are at 10 & 2, the inspection port shows TDC, and there are 15 pins between the cams.... it will all make sense soon.

don't over torque the cam covers !
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Old 05-31-2013, 06:16 AM   #18994
Falcon86
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Joined: Jul 2010
Location: Virginia Beach, VA/Slaty Fork, WV
Oddometer: 1,630
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Originally Posted by hasenwerk View Post
I have the latest Lynx on my bike -I like it! The lights are genuine Hella, mine are still halogen, but will install 3200K low / 4300K high HIDs in it soon. I don't like the headlight guard - blocks too much light and it looks like the bike is wearing sunglasses - will make my own out of a heavy rod for the outside and 1cm mesh for the interior. The adjustable windscreen is pretty decent although even with it all the way up it isn't as good as the Mirage 1 on my BMW 650 GS - but way better than no windscreen.
SICK looking bike, love it!
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Old 05-31-2013, 07:20 AM   #18995
MrBob
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Originally Posted by ohgood View Post
you'll need a clutch side gasket, but the clutch cover casket is reusable, see a parts fiche, you'll understand :)

it doesn't take long, just make sure the cams are at 10 & 2, the inspection port shows TDC, and there are 15 pins between the cams.... it will all make sense soon.

don't over torque the cam covers !
Eddie Sisneros is selling a kit with a manual tensioner and gasket, chain, and side cover gasket.
I found one Youtube video of the process, which helps, and spent time on the Ron Ayers web page ordering replacement fasteners to replace the buggered up ones, courtesy of the PO.
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Old 05-31-2013, 10:09 AM   #18996
150ron
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Location: Valencia, ca
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Both 2007's, both low miles, both with the stock carb, stock cylinders, yellow with FMF slip on, blue with MRD/SSW pipe, both 3x3 mod and properly jetted for our elevation, blue has the Hot Cams.

Blue is much faster off the line due to the Hot Cams and will reach 100, yellow tops out at 94, thats real world testing that i just did, lol

Seems that the Hot Cams and the MRD/SSW also lets you go about 3-4mph in each gear before shifting up, where the yellow just starts the stutter (rpm limiter) the blue keeps going 4mph more, in almost every gear.



And man, those D606'S are almost annoyngly noisey on the road, but great off road.

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Old 05-31-2013, 04:23 PM   #18997
blaster11
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Joined: May 2008
Location: Southern Maryland
Oddometer: 6,505
Big Bore upgade

So several weeks back I realized tha the bike I bought last year was an oil burner. So since I was getting ready to ride the Trans Eastern Trail I realized I needed to do something quick, so I installed a big bore kit. So the oil burning is over and it has barely moved off the full mark in 1500 miles of trail and highway riding loaded out. I am very happy with the upgrade.
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Old 05-31-2013, 04:33 PM   #18998
CatfishRacing
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Joined: Nov 2005
Location: Long Island, NY
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Can anybody point me to a diagram of a 39mm FCR carb?
I just did a 434cc kit on my SM and need to work out the baseline jetting at sea level.
Thanks.
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Old 05-31-2013, 05:18 PM   #18999
lakser
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Location: Bushwick, Brooklyn NY
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Today I started my bike. With choke engaged, started fine, but after abour 20 seconds the engine cut out. I started her up again no problem.

Is that strange?

the bike was sitring on the street for about 8 hours in 90 degree heat. While I was at work...maybe part of the reason?
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Old 05-31-2013, 07:37 PM   #19000
fifthcircle
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Joined: Jan 2005
Location: Knee deep in diapers, Nebraska.
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Originally Posted by lakser View Post
Today I started my bike. With choke engaged, started fine, but after abour 20 seconds the engine cut out. I started her up again no problem.

Is that strange?

the bike was sitring on the street for about 8 hours in 90 degree heat. While I was at work...maybe part of the reason?
You probably don't need choke when it's hot like that. No need to worry.

Sent from my fat thumbs on a small touch screen.
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Old 05-31-2013, 07:39 PM   #19001
LittleRedToyota
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Location: Pittsburgh
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lakser View Post
Today I started my bike. With choke engaged, started fine, but after abour 20 seconds the engine cut out. I started her up again no problem.

Is that strange?

the bike was sitring on the street for about 8 hours in 90 degree heat. While I was at work...maybe part of the reason?
you still had the choke on at 20 seconds when it cut out?

if so, i would say that is not unusual in 90* heat. you can kill the choke pretty much as soon as it's started in those temps.
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Old 05-31-2013, 08:42 PM   #19002
Pezz_gs
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Joined: Nov 2004
Location: Sydney Skunkworks
Oddometer: 3,691
I have been reassembling my DRZ400E and am at the sub-frame stage

Cleaned it all up after removing the air box, and ancillary items.

It is pretty scratched and a few rub marks.

Just wondering what paint to use on it, to keep the alloy finish.

I have painted the frame black . . . .

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Old 05-31-2013, 09:58 PM   #19003
150ron
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Location: Valencia, ca
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Originally Posted by fifthcircle View Post
You probably don't need choke when it's hot like that. No need to worry.

Sent from my fat thumbs on a small touch screen.
+1, anything above 85 degrees, i just give it half choke for about 3-5 seconds and its ready to go.
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Old 05-31-2013, 10:45 PM   #19004
MrBob
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Joined: Oct 2005
Location: Boulderish, CO
Oddometer: 7,359
Quote:
Originally Posted by CatfishRacing View Post
Can anybody point me to a diagram of a 39mm FCR carb?
I just did a 434cc kit on my SM and need to work out the baseline jetting at sea level.
Thanks.
I Googled Keihin fcr 39 and came up with a ton of stuff. Also, try Thumper Talk. My service manual has a pretty good blowup, too.
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Old 05-31-2013, 10:50 PM   #19005
MrBob
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Joined: Oct 2005
Location: Boulderish, CO
Oddometer: 7,359
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrBob View Post
Eddie Sisneros is selling a kit with a manual tensioner and gasket, chain, and side cover gasket.
I found one Youtube video of the process, which helps, and spent time on the Ron Ayers web page ordering replacement fasteners to replace the buggered up ones, courtesy of the PO.
Parts were ordered today. I know I can feel my way through the chain installation procedure but I'll keep searching Youtube for videos of the process.
True story: I wanted a metric feeler gauge to check the valves on the KLX. I went to three auto part stores in Santa Fe and in the first two the clerk did not know what a feeler gauge is.
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